paulr33

hi guys there was someone working on this but ive lost the original e-mail / PM please drop me a note if it was you - i want to continue with this ive got my own hosting now so i am ready - anyone else interested in doign this?

even with a locked tune, you can still use the temp IGN adjust to back out -5deg of timing this would be the quickest and fatest way to isolate tune/mapping/cells vs other stuff causing it

given youve done a lot of work, check the basics check all wires and sensors, check all basic engine functions, check power, check plugs etc check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller for sensors with black names (highlighted) after you;ve done all that, run a re-check of everything and then isolate air, fuel, spark if you have all 3 it should start and crank over

speed doesn't help any accident, i think youll find that is their avenue and how they market it, its just difficult to market it as anything else if they plaster the media with speed kills it might make a few people realise and slow down so instead they may just do some damage vs cutting their car in half

if its knocking that much at 3000rpm on light load id say a sensor is loose or something near the sensor is loose if you can replicate the knocking at 3000rpm or just below and have time to do a map tracer via MONITOR, MAP TRACE and press UP once on this screen, try and pinpoint which cell it is using when it knocks around that level. you can then view the cell values for IGN and INJ under SETTING, IGN or INJ. obviously its a bit fiddly and sometimes best left to a tuner, but if you have patience and are interested you could try that. perhaps the cell it's using has some wierd timing (unlikely but possible) otherwise id say something mechanical is loose if you want to debunk the ignition timing / fuel / load etc drive the car, replicate the knock levels you are seeing then goto SETTING, INJ/IGN and back out 5deg of timing, so you make IGN -5 and then continue to drive around check out the knock values then, if its still knocking the same levels id say your issue is mechanical noise the sensors are picking up if the knocking stops when you back out 5deg post up here and we can look at what it might be (fuel, mapping, something else whacko)

try temporary upload here; http://www.paulr33.com/airflow-meter-wiring.html the URL will change later so dont bookmark it etc, but until i fix, you can use that page let me know if you are after a different page

used nengun a few times, no issues with delays my powerfc was ordered on a wedneaday night, payment cleared thursday, it arrived at my door monday morning

ill upload the wiring section, hang 5

haha yeah true, id happily let mine for even 2k (i dont think they are worth that) as they need a respray jezza its a 21yr old car, that a high performance twin turbo its likely to have the pants thrased off it, with any performance car you should have a decent amount of $ spare for things to go wrong with it i still reckon the best bang per $ for a cheap quick car is the vl turbo billions to choose from, cheap as chips to fix, cheap to buy, many many many workshops/tuners etc the drawback i see with the vl though is safety, in a car accident id prefer to be in an R32 vs a VL

ive had my 33 as a daily since i got it i got it on 58,000 and its now got 230,000 and still goes alright had an absolute ball in it and its had very little go wrong but it does cost more than a normal bog stock family car ie tyres, fuel, insurance etc are always higher but so is the fun factor

basti ive got advan tri spoke if someone is chasing them interested in swaps / offers / changes to other wheels ive sprayed them black so they need to stripped back and painted

be careful with skyline & cheap tyres if it has some mild power i wouldn't be short cutting on tyres 265 18s wont be cheap no matter what you get, please be careful

who really cares? for $5 a month it's fine like i care of im on a shared box with some other knob websites etc i got frustrated with my paulr33 vhost breaking everytime the forums got upgraded, so it made sense to get my own hosting i have no interest in crons, audio streams, excessive inodes and so on i read all the terms and they seemed reasonable for the price

updated 07/04/2010 added "What's the new Apexi PFC EL Hand Controller and what is different?"

finally apexi have done a new version of the hand controller this one looks EL instead of LCD must get one

agree retune the AVCR there is a detailed video on youtube on how to tune the AVCR correctly the old HKS controllers did a self learn mode when you take off in 3rd gear and run to redline 3 times it would then during this process watch the wastegate pressure and manifold pressure and how long it took to boost build so i suggest when setting up your AVCR you base it off 3rd gear runs ie dont tune boost in 1st or 2nd, too much ramp, too much roadspeed for accurate control

www.paulr33.com unlimited everything quota, space, mailbox, features etc $5 a month charged on a 2 year contract www.justhost.com

f&f 3 tokyo drift is a piece of ass i think the only thing they got right is the engine noise

ive finally got my own hosting if anyone needs anything stored/hosted let us know

moved from tutorial

moved from tutorial, sorry for delay

moved from tutorial

moved from tutorial

moved from tutorial. as per my PM it sounds like your install is mangled, the PFC is damaged or something is wrong on your wiring loom. check the basics. i will send you the keystrokes on how to DATA INIT the PFC without looking at the screen but i dont think it will help.

moved from tutorial