paulr33

covered in the pfc faq, link is in my signature

word riggs

VLT

yep as long as a resonable core is fitted you will be fine gone are the days of people fitting truck cores to their 2.5 litre engines etc and vl's with cores as wide as the front of the car

adding an intercooler to the car and changing nothing will add throttle lag. that is an extra duration of lag time, from the time you open the throttle body, to the time the engine ingests the air. this is physics as you've added extra pipework and a larger intercooler core. i would estimate the lag to be sub 200ms ? people usually fit an intercooler with other mods and a tune so the extra "throttle lag" is negated and you don't notice it. so if you are doing it with other modifications, its essentially free (in terms of lag, change in engine characteristics) adding an intercooler is crucial when you tune and run more boost etc as it increases the engine's resistance to knocking / detonation without a larger core in the right location you will heatsoak the standard core and your engine will ingest excessive intake air temp air the results are poor performance and knocking / detonation. so for all the more boost you cram in, your gains will dimish with excessive intake temp / detonation

vl turbo, perfect for p plater cheap, lots of them, quick enough, most rebuilt turbo's etc

useless as all hell for sure, like the show

yeah got this video already actually looking for a working demo / someone who has one

unsure sorry i put my timing back to normal for a while and forgot about the 0deg idea

there was a guy here this morning looking for him yeah, a big guy on a bike. that got something to do with this? no, i wouldn't worry about him

the executive producre of channel 7 who authorised for the vicar of dibley to be put on tv needs to recieve an axe kick this show is complete ass and a waste of time - what a f**kbag of a show

yes fuel companies share tanks and fuel as not all companies have refineries in every state so they share and fuel does loose its octane count over time, so old fuel will certainly affect its level of resistance to knocking etc this is more than likely to explain the level of resistance to knocking vs a specific brand ie in some cases shell fuel will actually be mobil, and caltex may be BP often i see people post up brand XYZ is evil and kills injectors, motors etc blah blah i believe its more due to the fact of age of fuel at the servo vs a specific brand

that's not true, using 100RON is a great insurance policy on track days etc where you are worried about detonation without the skill (or ability) to back out timing from your tune or run less boost but you can't buy 100RON so it doesn't matter. 98ron is all good

chris will sort it out just because brand new, doesnt mean fitted properly or setup correctly

yeah you cant have it, you want a detachable wastegate basically, as by nature, it wont function

hi guilt toy i dont know the best setup, but i had centreline setup the pineapple diff cradle package on my car and from memory its on drag launch setup and its never been changed from that. from their documentation drag launch is really maximum traction, from memory mine is on that. i have std shocks still

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yep will give you more traction vs them rock hard at 40psi mind you, they will wear lots quicker so dont leave them at 20psi all day and night otherwise you will eat them up

if you are struggling for traction consider wider tyres - as wide as you can run cost effectively without scrubbing better tyres - cost = more grip usually, pzeros are ace, my best 0 too 100 was with them less pressure - 20psi for max grip - 40psi for normal drive and good economy pineapple / diff cradle kit - prevent tramping on the diff / hopping camber (make the wheels sit flat when you dump power, most will find inwards, reducing contact area) tune the boost curve to give best boost vs traction - ie AVCR with gearjudge

constant throttle, good tyre pressure, working 02 feedback and cruise speed = good economy bringing the engine on boost will throw economy out the window as does closed loop when you ramp it on boost so forget boost & fuel economy, if you want fuel economy, drive normal and dont load it up constantly

the apexi RSM does it, with g sensor correction as well

its the apexi power intake kit, which is just a pod filter leave it on R33 normal

manifold prussure, is exactly that, pressure in the manifold, or what we call "boost" when its past positive pressure or absolute pressure where the pressure comes from is irrelevant, ie 1 turbo, 2 turbos, 3 turbos, supercharger and turbocharger etc and pressure does not equal volume this why 15psi on a stock turbo vs 15psi on a GT35R make different levels of power

as mafia said search for the info, it's all out there it's not a simple sensor change, you need to get BCNR33 PFC, then change the wiring, then change the tune, then you loose VCT it's a lot of work just to run a map sensor. whatever you can achieve with the map sensor, you can do with AFM and a 3.5bar map sensor is only 2.5 bar boost you know that dont you?

if you are going to change the turbocharger and do track work forget the std r33 turbo either highflow or hks 2530 both will have steel wheel rear which is what you will need depending on the age too, may want to reconsider re-balance and service its probably likely the highflow is newer than the hks 2530 given they are quite old so i guess less risk with the highflow