paulr33

you reckon an AUS orig GTR R32 holds value? rubbish theres one on carsales.com.au has been for about 1.5 years now, its still at the same price and no movement who wants to buy it? just buy the jap spec for 20k+ less and away you go

for those who are reading a general tip if you are trying to debug boost build / wastegate / boost controller issues the quickest way to find out if its leaking / stupid controller / wrong settings / wrong control etc find the VAC line or signal line to the boost controller (or actuator) or gate and unplug it tape up the VAC line so you aren't leaking to atmo from the manifold and then drive ramp the engine on full load in say 3rd gear but be prepared to back off as its running unlimited boost you should be able ramp past 1 bar pretty quickly (be careful and dont run much past this) ie back off when you go near 3000rpm. if you are able to build your ideal boost early, this is your "quickest possible boost build map" ie the quickest possible time your engine can load up the required pressure the next step is to setup your controller / gate / boost controller / etc to run with that desired ramp rate (ie work correctly) and control when target boost is met

yeah there isnt enough pretension on the actuator ie its either loose or just on the edge so when its ramping on boost , its probably part leaking / part open which means you are loosing out on the backpressure in the housing bassjunky had this on his GCG hiflow with a new actuator (from memory) end result was it was sluggish and took ages (like yours) to get on boost and full song he bent the actuator rod (temp fix) and instantly it would ramp to full boost around 3000rpm i forget how he fixed it in the end, but a quick bend of the actuator rod was enough to give it some tension so it wouldnt leak/bleed off

i dont see the point of a ghetto external gate onto an internal gate turbo isnt the point of an external gate setup so that all of the flow/prssure on the exhaust side runs through the entire housing snail to give the best possible flow/veloicity and drive the compressor harder/quicker and when target is reached, the external gate releases back pressure to control flow. vs internal gate all of that flow/pressure runs through the smaller exhaust housing as it has to account for internal wastegate bypass it's a reasonable expectation that an external gate setup always comes on boost quicker and has better response but its also resonable to expect more cost involved i see no value or gain in control of boost etc in an internal to external ghetto mod

check it with a timing light at idle should be 15deg fo rb25deg

on my gtst after 3.5 minutes of operating the water temp is 45deg, oil pressure is good and reacts to engine load at this point its ok to drive the car normally and load it up a bit. i certainly wouldnt smash every gear to redline but its perfectly normal to load it up and bring on some boost if you want afer this warm up time. my gtst is 13 years old, 225,000 kms on the clock so i dont see any point running for 10 minutes in baby mode then loading it up

yeah i would expect it to come on a bit earlier what car? manual? auto how is it tuned? how do the AFRs look ? 8psi by 3300rpm hmmmm it just looks sluggish - theres no real whack how is your boost control? try it on the dyno on unlimited boost mode what did the tuner say does it knock

as the others have said, just drive it normally (dont load it up, dont bring it on boost) until the engine is warm wamr is considered around 50deg water temp - or when the water temp guage on the dash starts to move

moved from tutorial

buy a car with that power already cheapest easiest quickest guaranteed results - you can check the dyno before you buy the car

mines tune is shit 11 afrs is no advantage just wasting efficiency, 12 afr is fine, even 13 af/r is fine - race pace style

agree with Rob and also its not the ECU's fault so dont blame that the stock rubber intake piping is accordian style for this exact reason, so if you remove the accordian style pipework, its likely to reverse on the airflow meter hotwire dont hate the player, hate the game

when you say wastegate please clarify what you mean do you mean the spring actuator rod (most people refer to this) - this controls the minimum amount of boost you run before the wastegate opens or do you mean the wastegate size itself - this bypasses pressure off the housing and maintains effective boost control

the q45's are a bit of a hit and miss AFM, some work great, some are ass i would recommend selling and changing to Z32 AFMs Z32s are smaller, easier to fit and mate up (80mm vs 90) particulary for GTR and more common Z32 is also rated higher by apexi documentation, the Q45s according to apexi cap at 289kw each, whereas Z32 is rated to a round 380kw i think

yeah try trent he should be able to help apexi offer a service to repair, but you have to send it to japan, so probably pricey i wonder if they would fix the BNR32 misfire bug....

average power makes the car quicker = quicker 1/4 time peak power in one spot means nothing on the street you car would be ass to drive, it would lack power and midrange with a full tune, intercooler and real ECU the car would fly

spend the money on tyres, suspension instead

regardless of any mods, changes, engine swaps, tunes, tricks etc a Skyline GTR R32 is a twin turbo sports car which exceeds the power to weight rule and is turbocharged, so therefore it is not allowed on your p platers in victoria this is regardless of age, kilometers, power, mods, intake tricks, removing turbochargers, changing engines, etc the vicroads regulations dont care about how the car looks, performs, appears, sounds, or how much power it makes they simply look at what the car is, a Skyline GTR R32 and go hmm its on our list of not allowed, sorry

classic need for speed quality gaming

you need someone who knows how to tune the AFC neo (or you can try it yourself) you need a dyno to simulate load you need a wideband sensor and a wideband sensor reader/controller/guage if you have all of those a tuner can do it for you or you can do it yourself you need the wideband sensor which goes up the exhaust (at muffler is OK) and then a unit to display the AF/R from the sensor ie you cant plug the sensor into nothing or the stock ecu or the AFC, it needs to go into a wideband controller/AFR guage (not a $50 autobarn one) the wideband sensor and reader/controller thingy should set you back around $300 if you have to buy it, so best to find a tuner who has one

check the tune - how well is it tuned? is it tuned enough? check your tyres (good? worn? new? wide enough?) check tyre pressure (what was it?) should be 20psi for drag with the same mods, but stock turbo i was able to do 13.7 @ 105mph with cold track and slipping diff so it should have been quicker. my 60s were lower and my mph was the same and 1/4 was less

basics 101 when jumpstarting there is no excuse to get it backwards petrojet can repair them

rich and retard or clutch slip

this is based on my car which is normal GTST manual 4.11 diff gears (i assume stock?) with active lsd (stock) RPM = (SPEED / 28) * 1000