paulr33

'You have thirty minutes to move your car.' 'You have ten minutes to move your car.' 'Your car has been impounded.' 'Your car has been crushed into a cube.' 'You have thirty minutes to move your cube.'

your idea seems reasonable, such a drastic change in AFR given its a dyno day and the sensor is moved around a lot, it might be a bit whacko or something for such a dramatic change in AFR, i would have expected wonky power curve, detonation

its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

thats so true

well then no point going to buy a new AFM check the basics air fuel spark make the engine run so focus there check stock ecu diag?

just unplug the AFM and see if it idles the engine will run with no AFM and should idle OK, but it wont drive very well and will rev cap at 2500RPM if the AFM is the culprit when you unplug it, it should run to normal idle if the AFM is NOT the culprit when you unplug it, the same problem will be present and it will stall

send a maniac, to catch a maniac

haha it wasn't me

i fixed it joe, it was just vapour lock

snakes on a plane is pretty wierd

I've been on the job for over 20 years, and I fail to see what fishing bricks from the bottom of a pool has got to do with bank robbery. And on top of that, they got me babysitting some quarterback punk, named Johnny Unitas or something.

check basic sensors, check ecu diag check airflow meter check boost sensor check if engine check light is on

there would be a dozen "ECU" threads all with good info, facts, data, suggestions and ideas it is recommended you search and read these

dunno about 26, but converting the 2.0 to 3.0 is probably reasonable instead of 2.2 but anyhoo whats everyone upto tomorroww

its probably same cost to do 3 litre budget than 2.2

if you dont know what you are doing lower RPM is better going off the line at 3500rpm will just result in wheelspin or hopeless launches start off slow and around 1500rpm and learn how to side step and get it off the line without all out power / wheelspin or bog the dog also check tyre pressure this is crucial to be able to launch and get grip for drag run 20psi in the rears suspension work is also important for traction off the line do you have std clutch? can you afford to replace it? launching / drags will fty the std clutch, specially with 265s

dont even bother if its cracked, it will be split and dead obvious just unplug each hose carefully (the vac ones) and visuaually inspect usually they fray and split apart where its been cut

and tyres will run out before calipers do

it leaks on idle as designed, but it shouldnt hiss flat out ie you wouldnt hear it leak unless the vac lines are toast

yeah R33 S2 is the same, factory and seperate switch for them

white ones or yellow ones? or regardless of colour?

if they are, thats good was hoping they were std globe and not some uber spec light assembly in one piece will check it out when i care and can be bothered dont drive my car to work so not urgent urgent

vac leak, check all the vac lines for any splits or cracks in the rubber take each end off and visually check it all around where it is cut the old rubber vac lines are notorious for leaking / splitting when cut and are the old rubber factory items / vac lines

one of my foglights is dead honkey anyone know how much they are worth on the s2 front bar

are you sure its the CAS that is at fault? do you have el cheapo cam gears installed?