paulr33

its simple pressure does not equal volume volume of air makes power, not pressure a car tyre at 40psi has lets say 100 units of air a truck tyre at 40psi has lets say 300 units of air now we know the truck tyre has more air as its physically larger, but they run the same pressure moral of the story how much boost you run means absolutely nothing other than to tell and impress people id rather make 400HP on 7psi than 400HP on 21psi, but some people prefer it the other way also be sure to note boost is pressure above sea level pressure, so actually 19psi is really 19psi + 14 psi for sea level pressure its know as PSIA so really if your running 19psi boost then the manifold pressure is actually 33psi of absolute pressure (or psia) go and quote to your mates your running 33psia - i bet that will amaze them

why buy it and then check? i know it doesnt help but it's madness and pure stupidity its like buying a car with no pre-prior inspection or mechnical check or imagine buying a house without looking inside it, building checks, land precheck etc its prue madness don't fork over your hard earned cash on bogus and bullshit turbochargers do your research first and then if it proves to be good, buy it to your hearts content does it even have garrett plastered on the compresor cover ?

where did you hook the map sensor up to? what wire? what plug? the powerfc is display --- as it cannot read the map sensor signal this is why its probably running in unlimited boost mode too, as the powerfc kit isnt turned on or isnt working (you have to enable it as well)

of course it can be fatal, the injectors are at 100% they cannot physically pump in any more fuel if you hit max inj duty of 100% at 5000rpm and the engine continues to use more air, it will lean out, which places the engine at risk no engine or tune should max injectors if you blip 100% at 6980RPM for a slit second its probably ok but if you hit 100% much earlier and the engine is more on load progressively, its a timebomb

yeah from memory the VL jatco box is fine as it has it's own auto ecu vs the skyline auto box that relies on the normal ECU to do the work for it i dont understand why, but i think the jatco is ok and it shouldnt flare as its own ECU tells the autobox what to do i suspect the jatco and it's ECU has its own mapping for gear up/down logic and watches RPM, TPS etc so it can work out when to change gear and disengages itself so it doesnt flare, and then re-enages vs the R33 auto box where it relies on the ECU to back out timing during gear change ie the auto box can do the mapping for speed/RPM/TpS gear change OK, but it expects the ECU to back out timing, and it wont disengage itself does my theory sound right?

34R's are pretty cheap

bells hotel has improved their menu quite a lot and they now do flavoured parma's better food and more options for those interested

set them to whatever gives the best results on the dyno

it's important to clarify what you mean, do you mean a no brander ebay turbo such as MONSTA, KKR, T3/T4 i call these "ebay" brands as they are typically junk, cheap spec, poor match, don't mate up and have no real solid brand yes they may work as duncan said and may do the job, but usually its an inferior product and there are comprimises there is nothing wrong with turbochargers made in china, garrett and hks one's would be made in china no doubt its an issue where a cheap product or brand is made in china and there is poor quality control, r&d and a poor basic product ie a HKS turbo made in china would be fine vs a MONSTA T70 turbo made in china

samurai pizza cats, oh yeah

also cheap and 2nd hand often ring alarm bells - are you buying someone else's problem?

the day is a fun event, nothing serious, it doesnt matter how good or bad you are its all for good fun and practice, so dont worry about being quick or slow etc most people will focus too hard on trying to be vs trying diffferent things etc

here here last time we did it a lot of people drop out in the afternoon so you basically get non stop runs with no queue i lost count of how many runs i had throughout the day but it was oooodles it got to a point where i would come off a run, come back and i was ready to go on the start line again good for practice launching, testing traction, playing with boost controllers etc as theres no pressure and it doesnt matter

how well is your current setup tuned? do you want more average power or higher top end power at a given point? there are ways to make the car quicker without more top end power so keep that in mind a highflow of your current turbo is probanly the best option (in terms of gain and power) but also probably the most expensive the problem with the T4/Rb25 VL spec is unknown age, condition and specs, so it could be perfect, or it could be ass on a 2 litre, its very crucial, whereas on a 3liter (from the VL) any spec will perform half reasonably

for those who cant be bothered reading the engine check light comes on and flashes differently for the following reasons a sensor out of range or failed - ie water temp sensor, airflow meter, tps - which ever is dead will be highlighted in ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller injectors reaching 98% knock exceeding a level of 60 airflow meter reaching 5v these are defaults on the powerfc and you can change the sequence flash in datalgot, and you can enable/disable the flash on the hand controller via ETC, FUNCTION SELECT

be careful with shit cam gears

i can see why HKS did it but yeah the results weren't that great you got a bit more power, but you paid for it with the penalty of more lag as the others have covered off in other threads this where this is a bit of a power gap from bolt on replacement turbochargers i guess HKS tried to fill that gap a bit but it came out with a more laggier penalty vs gains un related id like to an external gate GTR TWIN 2835 (1 of them) on a single rb25 setup and see how does that perform yes i know wrong flange, wont mate up, but i reckon this could be a real killer

read the PFC FAQ (in my sig) to learn why the engine check light comes on, its not just knocking that makes it come on

yeah sounds right unless installed by legit apexi it may be void thats probably what the warranty card says (in japanese)

a good tuner can tune out the stalling effects from an atmo bov in either ljetro (airflow meter) or djetro (map sensor) for any given ecu if they know what they are doing, the powerfc is the same its a bandaid fix, but it's certainly something the tuner can do (with experience)

i guess they will check what has failed and why and then pick the likely cause its like a garrett turbo if it fails, you send it to garret and they diag why it failed the usual culprits are pod intake has let dirt into the bearings unless they see oh its a fault form the bearing kit we used, then your instake etc is at fault (in the case of mashed bearings)

apexi offer factory repair of a powerfc, but they will charge you for it and it has to go back to japan. good luck with a warranty claim, its more likely it has failed due to install issue (ie dodgy wiring, hacked loom etc). it certainly is possibly the powerfc has failed on its own (ie warranty) but i doubt it open up the PFC and check for damage, smell for burns etc how is the cars wiring loom? is it %100 oem and in prefect condition or is it hacked to bits? was the ECU firmly secured into the loom with the screw in to hold it in place?

nistune powerfc or remap

that sounds like something you did wrong, not her ?

watch so 80s