paulr33

powerfc is bulletproof and a great cheap solution lots of documentation on the powerfc as per my sig, powerfc FAQ

imho i think all personal plates are pretty ass

it may be a lousy channel but the simpsons are on tv

for what it's worth the stock turbo looks like; 160km/h = 5714rpm = 195rwkw 170km/h = 6074rpm = 189rwkw the stock turbo seems to peak at 5700rpm ish and the prototype seems to peak at 5000rpm ish this is based on my stock turbo tune neither is right or wrong just offering data i think a 33 GTST with that powerband would be pretty sweet on the street its a good 50rwkw ahead everywhere in the power band so it should be shit hot

please be aware that a lot of those ECU options are manual only, that is they wont support the R33 GTST auto box and will assume your car is manual. so be sure to select a solution that will work with the auto box correctly, the powerfc doesn't as its a manual ECU only. from memory the remap option is the best for auto (and probably most cost) so check out a remap or nistune, even if it costs more

well the known baddie you have is the taped/botched coilpacks you already know these were causing an issue last time as you have repaired them so the most likely culprit is the coilpacks - i can't understand how the CAS is at fault, unless it has come loose how often does a CAS fail? i cant recall a single CAS Failure? it seems in the last two weeks everyone posts "CAS" is at fault. check the basics. check your coilpacks, check base timing at idle (that would confirm if CAS is toast or not)

technically it's possible and he could be you could probably run twin T88s on the stock ecu its just if you load it up and bring it on boost, its probably going to run like ass it will work, but it wont be ideal there is so much power / response / gains to be had from a good tune (regardless of how, piggyback, remap, standalone)

ive had a review of the online demo i made for the hand controller its actually pretty good i think, sure the format is ass, but the functionality is basic and works http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-emulator/menu.html looking forward to someone doing it in flash and doing all the screens

i have a sparky at rowville does that help let us know if you need his details

you can fit any new turbocharger you like and just drive around like a normal car on the stock ecu depending on how much it flows and how different it is its likely you wont be able to load it fully up ie if you ramp it on boost and trash it, its either likely to lean out / detonate or hit the stock ecu airflow cut (aka boost cut, or rich and retard) so as long as you are ok with driving normally and dont expect lots of power and mega response then its ok

there's no point doing your mods with upgrading the ECU or tuning it you may as well leave it as a stock GTST with stock everything the stock GTST goes from 140rwkw with basic mods and a tune to 200rwkw without a tune it would be pretty ordinary

check the basics before going into solution mode. Check your base timing? Check etc, sensor sw check on the hand controller? Have you got aftermarket cam gears? Are they tight?

as trent said check your boost control, the hand controller will show you peak boost if you are using the powerfc boost kit if you arent, you could consider hooking up the map sensor for it to display on the hand controller ($200 map sensor and $20 loom)

here is the news article http://www.news.com.au/breaking-news/one-d...0-1225863361821

rest in peace and sorry to hear thoughts go out to all members, family and friends

did your car behave this way with the stock ecu? there is some information missing i think, it doesnt make sense - why was the battery dying? was there a previous issue/fault? the powerfc is a bulletproof stand alone replacement ecu for the stock ecu, it does what the stock ecu does so it's really no different in terms of operation etc. i suspect there is something missing from your info, or your car has been fiddled with by previous owner if the powerfc doesn't turn off when the car does - ie key OFF and it's still running something says to me the ECCS relay is either mangled/faulty/damaged when the IGN is cut the ECCS relay should flick and tell the powerfc to save the tune and then power off

as the others have said check basics check your VCT is working check base timing at idle how is it tuned? is there enough timing in the tune (does it ever knock?) how do the AFR's look ? why do you have a reason to suspect it has different cams? my rb25det is bog stock, i have no reason to :guess: it has different cams, why do you? has something else changed or been done to the engine that you havent posted?

part #s as per my sig

when the problem occurs check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK For any sensors that are out of range (black background) or any whack values also check MONITOR 4 CHANNEL AIRTEMP WATERTEMP BATTERY AIRFLOW anything odd ?

i stick with my original thoughts, and thanks for beer baron agreeing there is no engine check light for dead / mangled coil packs it sounds like, at a guess stutter, followed by SLIP TCS coming on is that your TPS is mangled, loose, fault, out of range the engine would stutter if the TPS goes out of range or reports whack values SLIP and TCS would fail if TPS goes out of range / fails as it needs to know how far throttle body is open to function and guess "wheelspin" conditions so check your basics, check the TPS, check the throttle body, run stock ecu diag with consult port / cable / diag

ahh i know everyone is misfire / coilpack / cas mad these days but what warning light are you talking about? from memory no warning light will come to indicate dead coilpacks etc

well it can only be a few things air, fuel, spark so check there, look for something simple / obvious

sounds like a good idea, good initative just be careful, wouldnt want someone to come off on a bike cruise (ouch)

last post by me covers your question http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ap...tt-t136074.html

hello wether you choose to wire in BNR34 PowerFC or ER34 PowerFC in auto GTT the same problem is present the ECU is a manual based ECU and it assumes the driver will clutch in on gear change (this the load axis is reduced etc) it doesn't expect nor does it understand the autogearbox needs logic to change gears. there is no known way to make the powerfc know the auto box is present and "work". the auto stock ECU understands the auto box and will have shift logic coded to ensure the gear changes are smooth and not harsh on the auto box (retard timing on gear change). so auto ecu you floor it, keep flooring it and don't take off the throttle, the ECU goes thru its mapping and reaches a point and says oh time to change gears, cool back out the timing, hey autobox its OK to change gears know, auto box changes, ECU resumes normal mapping and timing manual ECU (any, not just powerfc) you floor it, keep floring it and don't take off the thorttle, the ECU goes thru its mapping and continues (as it assumes manual) and expects you will contro gearchange ie throttle off / clutch in but the autobox must change at some point due to its mapping so it does so, assuming the ECU has backed out its timing and is ready for the change, but its not as the manual ecu wont listen / care and the autobox will give a flared / harsh change as the engine is still under full load instead of reduced load from backed out timing so does powerfc work in an auto? yes will it be driveable? yes will it work really well? probably not will it make the auto box angry and risk its life? definetly the only plausibe way i could see is you keep the stock ecu and intercept every sensor etc to the powerfc and piggyback it, but whats the point? just get a proper supported solution in the first place, there are a number of auto tuneable options retaining the std ECU correctly and it doesnt mattter what ECU / system you use how its tuned will determine what power it makes (and how). ie a powerfc based skyline wont make more power than a HKS FCON based skyline (assuming same car type etc). its all bout how it is tuned and (if) tuned correctly. so dont think you must get a powerfc just because people make power with them, you should make the same power with nistune, vipec, motec, wolf, autronic etc if tuned correctly