paulr33

hard to read post, perhaps try with correct english? try the powerfc faq or online hand controller emulator to work out how to set boost correctly (in my sig) emulator here http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-emulator/menu.html

offtopic when someone has a working new EL hand controller in their hands can you drop me a note please

i get that guages can become inaccurate over time due to wear and tear etc but if you find vast inconsistencies between readings and two guages check for obvious issues and problems check for leaks, check for damaged vac lines (common with cheap ones) - heat & pressure makes them split check where the OEM one is reading from vs your aftermarket one - are they reading from the same place?

new compressor wheel new exhaust wheel bore out the exhaust housing snot near bearing chra kit balance and clean it spins at 100,000+ rpm so i dont think its something you can do at home balancing is crucial

try rhdjapan or nissan directly

the sensor doesnt last forever and should be replaced, its not clear how often, but it should be id say every 50,000 ish ? the sensor should float around from 0.00v to 1.00v depending on AFRs if the sensor doesnt move around much its likely to be dead

yep go for it, the powerfc doesnt use the sensor or the exhaust temp light

with that many k's on it, no one will want it im in the same boat, my R33 has 228,000 on the clock, no one will want it if you can sell it 8k max have a look at what vl turbos are worth and i reckon compare vs that i mean if a 87 vl turbo is worth 3k still then a 93 gtst should be worth a fair bit more

what do you think happens when a map sensor reads 20psi and continues until redline? the same thing, the horiztonal load axis never changes

mythbusters ahoy and blast from the past - beyond 2000 you cannot (well shouldn't) use most stand alone ECU's on ECR33 Auto this is because the standard ECU has all the logic for gearchange control if you replace this ECU with a standalone that is a MANUAL ECU (that is, does NOT support the ECR33 AUTO box) then it assumes manual it wont back out timing on gear change, which results in harsh/jerky gearchanges and the changes put stress on the box this "gotcha" applies to most stand alone ECU's, be it Apexi, HKS, Motec, Autronic, Wolf etc etc etc your best option is nistune or emanage or remap or safc all of these options keep the stock ecu, and retain the factory gearbox logic users have insisted that powerfc (and other stand alone ecu's) etc work on AUTO and the truth it, it does work, you can start the car you can drive, you can boost it etc but the changes will be harsh and youll risk the box if you are OK with that, go for it, but you know the risks/results this "gotcha" only applies to ECR33 auto where the gearbox is electronic control logic and needs the main ecu to do the logic change for it cars such as vl turbo, toyota either have seperate ECU control for autobox or mechnical (vl turbo)

yeah R33 was never sold locally only 100 BNR32's were sold locally and aus spec "delivered" GTR's first run of ECR33 was looks like NOV 92 was when they wwere building ECR33 or HR33 http://imports.motortraders.net.au/imports...e&period=80

adriano is spot on, good tip 99 twin Rb25 AFm's is easy to setup and flows plenty to make heaps of power, without the cost of Z32s

1993 and same as jap YEN price ?

covered to death in the tutorial section, go search

check the basics, check wiring, check ECCS, check relays

in regrads to the additional features, they come at a cost, which is why the powerfc doesn't include any of those the powerfc is a simple plug and play standalone ECU with a hand controller to give you everything you need for a basic or street or track car other ecu's like motec, autronic, vipec etc will have anti lag, launch control, logging, multiple map switching, different rev cut methods etc etc etc but these all come at a cost. if you see value in them and need them thats fair enough, but thats why you wont see it in the powerfc - they come at extra cost the powerfc has software and logging abilities but they are 3rd party features, again at extra cost and purchases if you want these options, like you have said then you are better off going for a better supported unit, with those features native (vs 3rd party tools like datalogit) but this is where you go from a $900 ECU to a $1500+ ECU

garrett specs and power levels as per my sig

what do your local tuners use and support (and can tune?) no point getting a MOTEC if no one around you can tune it or they will charge $2k to tune it likewise with any ECU option, even the powerfc or adaptronic - they are useless if your local tuners cant do tune it or charge through the ass to tune it my pref is powerfc (see my sig for powerfc faq and online hand controller emulator)

read the PFC FAQ as per my sig plug it in, turn car to ON, but DONT start the car then do DATA INIT as per powerfc FAQ and self idle learn procedure be sure to read the documentation and on how to self install, set injectors (if non std), airflow meter (if non std), boost kit BEFORE starting the car

got splitfires here, all good after newies put in althought i doubt $1500 ? i got mine for $580 a few years ago

i guess the clear distinct advantage here is you can keep your working stockers or sell them when you buy a pair of new turbos whereas if you highflow your old ones, you take them off, send them and get them back later if price was the same i would go a new pair %100 instead of highflowing originals

i wouldnt pay $1500 for a R33 Powerfc more like $1100 yes they are no longer made by apexi, but they can be had cheaper than that, ive seen them go for $1050 with hand controller powerfc $1100 sell stock AFM $50 buy Z32 $200 $1250 V44 $1800 sell stock AFM $50 $1750 find some local tuners and get some pricing and find out what they tune its not good if your local tuners dont know anything about nistune and you have one same with powerfc, its not good havign a powerfc if all tuners near you dont know how to use it so be wise check before buying and see what they reocmmend and what price to tune as well

covered to death how hard did you look? theres a factory free boost hack on the r33 GTST, look for it in the tutorial section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HO...ost-t42895.html

yes if you want to aim for 300rwkw you will need to sell the stock AFM and buy a Z32 but if you want to use a djetro ecu then you need to sell the stock AFM and buy a map sensor you could sell the stock AFM for $50 and buy a Z32 for around $200 or and buy a map sensor for around $200 so its much the same really

powerfc plug in, drive to tuner and your done lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of tuners (you can pick best price, best support etc) simple to use hand controller lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of documentation (see my sig, powerfc faq and online hand controller emulator) probably the cheapest from the bunch be sure to note some points when picking an ECU the brand of ECU means ZERO when you say you want XYZ rwkw any ECU option can and will make power, even a remap can make 400rwkw so ignore "rwkw" as a deciding factor, ie the MOTEC wont make 400rwkw and the powerfc will only make 385rwkw djetro means map sensor based ECU which guesses engine load from pressure ljetro means air flow meter (like your stock ecu) which measures air coming into the engine ljetro is fine in your case and will work, there is no need to change to map sensor to over complexify it or add more cost # of rev and load points is a pretty minor fact, most of the ECU options have reasonable load points and axis mapping ie you shouldnt go for XYZ ECU as the load point are 350rpm vs 325rpm - this is a negligable difference for a street car