paulr33

moved from tutorial because questions arent meant to be posted in tutorial section

see my sig for power level / model #s

unplug the 02 sensor and try it its the sensor on the exhaust dump pipe

yep go for it, there are a number of power threads from your skyline, all of the good info is in those threads do some reading for a few days / weeks and collect all of your info

i still think 360rwhp will cost you 10k in parts, labour, tune drive in and jive away

define "pings" does he mean the engine check light comes on? or does he mean the engine is detonating - audible by knock headphones? also when he said he cant get anymore did he just leave it at? why leave it for you to play "debug the problem" he is the mechanic, not you it makes no sense. surely basics check would prevail here air fuel spark make power, so check those. is the timing even correct (you mention you think the cam is off) - was this checked before anything (ie before even base tune)

your looking for a cheaper alterantive to a stand alone and you want 500rwhp or 500hp ? i think you really need to write down on paper a) what you want b) how much you plan to spend the two will never match at this rate forget about solution mode for 10 minutes, really plan what you want you're getting way too far and quick into solution mode next up youll be bidding on ebay auctions for random kits and bolt on stuff that wont work

the term "street registered" goes back to the classic street machine days where a car has number plates and a registration sticker on it, and it's insanely fast/quicker/mega power this means the car is a normal car and can drive on the road, but be quick as all hell etc etc cars that go with a full cage, stripped interior, slicks, parachute etc ditch the "street registration" tag what erks me is when someone says they have a "street registered" fast/mega power car and the reason it is "street registered" is because it started out as a normal car at one point if the owner took the car to vic roads / nsw RTA and said hey, here is my 10sec skyline can you please register it for me, i need new plates, it is likely to fail a lot of tests and not become eligable to be "street registered". again the same applies if you go through an EPA checkpoint or police defect station, will it pass? of course not, does it have rego? yes

cheaper to sell your R34 as is and buy one thats already got the power and expensive stuff done there is an ER34 with a 3 litre big sinle on carsales.com.au in melbourne for sale its got around 400rwkw with all the expensive stuff done will be far cheaper than you buying all the parts and having someone do it

get a timing light and check it only way to be sure

john post a photo of the engine bay or pm a link to an engine bay photo it will be the quickest way to work out what engine it has and then for the turbo do the same take a photo of the area and post it up or pm a link there are obvious visual differences between the two (rb20det turbo and rb25det turbo) - regardless of what engine it is on, so it sohuld be easy to pick

moved from tutorial (as you arent allowed to post questions in there)

moved from tutorial (as you arent allowed to post questions in there)

std GTR AFM is 65mm vs Z32 AFM which is 80mm std nismo GTR AFM is 65mm but with higher resolution sensor (like Z32 in 65mm shell) Z32 flows more, is larger and has higher resolution. for BNR32/BCNR33/BNR34 depending on ECU options you have choice of 2 x RB25 AFMs 2 x Z32 AFMs 2 x Nismo AFMs Nismo is usually preferred as everything mates up, ie its still 65mm whereas if you use Z32 or RB25's its 80mm each so you have to change pipework etc a pair of RB25 AFMs is probably cheapest option. all of the listed options need a different ECU or a piggyback or a remap to make it work and besides, why would use a STOCK ECU (no remap) and need to replace the AFM's its kinda a conumdrum, ie you wouldnt be able to make enough power to max the stock AFMs' but retain factory ECU (without a remap) and no other piggyback or standalone

is it really worth all the hoo haa, time, effort and costs? i mean, is it really? i had a friend spend 12k in legal costs chasing a 10k debit that was owed him to in the end the guy (who owned the money) has now been delcared bankrupt and my friend is still owed the 10k and is now also short 10k+ in legal fee's so it is really worth it? yes they are wrong, yes they did the damage

good to hear all sorted yeah its something thats got me gobsmacked and we've seen it before, the illusive missing 10amp fuse i dont get how ECR33 with standard ECU runs fine and no problems for 10+ years go and install the PowerFC and it goes spazzo, only to find a MISSING 10amp FUSE i mean, i get it if was blown right, but a MISSING fuse - that makes no sense? if its part of the 10AMP engine control, how can it be missing and work with the stock ecu? why does the powerfc need it? what circuit is broken by this fuse MISSING ???? it make ZERO sense @#*()(@#*@*#(@*#(@#*(@#*(@

looks awesome well done

its nothing to do with how many maps you have (or need) the 02 sensors will trim your AFRs if they are rich on cruise ie if the tuner hasnt tuned every cell for a prefect AFR on light cruise, the powerfc (and stock ecu) will self correct and lean out to stoichometric you can, however, if your tuner is good enough and has enough time (ie cost $$$) he can lean it out beyond stoichometric and either set the PFC stoichometric to lower than 14.7 or like trent said tune the cells (takes time with a wideband) on my gtst i was able to set my afrs around 15/16 ish on light cruise with no issues & you get good economy

anyone ever clocked street rods 2 ?

check in the fuse panel on ECR33 drivers side in the cabin look for ENGINE 10 AMP fuse check if its blown, if so reclace it i forget which one is ENGINE 10amp so check them all or find a diagram of it my site paulr33.com

yeah just leave the 02 feedback off until you replace the sensor you can find the sensor and matching plug or replace with ford el falcon 02 sensor, but youll have to cut the wires when 02 feedback is off your economy will be ordinary, but still OK ie it might be 250kms to a full tank instead of 350kms+

also by faster do you mean who has a higher trap speed? or who wins the drag race? as you may loose the drag race but have a higher trap speed, so you may be "faster" but still loose ie a vl turbo with transbreak spooling for 30 second will always loose, but have a mega high trap speed - which may be what you call "faster"

whatever wheels are on femno's 32R purple + his wheels = perfect 32R & it has oodles of power / launch ability

the dyno plot looks ok, the blue line is ok except for the surge where you said is the clutch slip if the AFRs are dropping to 19 with no direct cause and the maps look ok, something is horribly wrong check the basics check is the ECU secured into the connector properly or it is loose and flopping around check the fuel pump (what type, how old) check the fuel pump (how is it installed, is it on the factory bracket at the back of the tank or is it floating around) check your airflow meter, is it clean and OK or are the wires mangled and cut when the problem occurs on the dyno do you see the engine check light flash or stay on? if a sensor is f**ked the powerfc will turn on the engine check light (different to flashing engine check light) when this happens you can you view ETC, SENSOR SW CHECk to see which sensor is dead if you dont get the engine check light coming on and staying on, basic sensors are OK (throttle, airflow meter, water temp)

the smic vs fmic has been debated TO DEATH already yes any core (or no core at all) can dyno 200rwkw or even 300rwkw its the repeated loading it up on the street which is where the fmic will walk away from the smic given his ambient temps the bigger the core, the better