paulr33

you sohuld be able to beat or if not just get in front of xr8 / ss / wrx with 200rwkw, let alone 250/300rwkw

i think there would be a sweet spot for the fatest possible acceleration in 0 to 100km after that, any more power at the rear just results in wheelspin / slower times i think the std turbo and basic mods to 200rwkw is when the GTST is the quickest in 0 to 100 i think with sub 280rwkw it may be a touch slower with wheelspin after 100km the 280rwkw+ would walk away but 200rwkw with traction would nail it i reckon vs 280rwkw and wheelspin

yeah you will the stock bov loud as all hell with a pod filter on it, it's normal

yeah it was std shocks - ive never changed them, and got car on 58k with stockers from memory the car had 100,000 - it was just after timing belt change and new tyres on the rear

it's all in the launch and car setup / suspension if you want low 0 too 100km/h the one i did 4.88 was prefect launch with brand new pzero 255's and 190rwkw the car had some basic suspension work, pineapple kit, camber, castor and bushes from memory you need to get off the line with no wheelspin and grab 2nd as quick as you can when you top 1st dont bother for 3rd, youll pass 100km/h before you top 2nd gear for tyre pressure if you want off the line run 18-20psi in the rears and your acceleration will be quicker with smaller wheels, ie 17s instead of 19s

477 movies on tap

0 to 100km/h in 4.88 seconds - ECR33 GTST with 190rwkw

$1064 on paint so far got roof to do in dining room and last wall in kitchen should be on target for $1200 easily

if stock ecu, get nissan consult (cable and software) you can buy it, check for NewKleer (he makes them) on the forums then check the stock ecu diagnostics via the software it will tell you if the AFM is toast if AFM is toast - ie completely dead REV is capped at 2500rpm but if its dirty / mangled it may work enough to run, but make fuel injection run like ass, ie botched airflow vs real airflow check its plug, check for damage, visual inspection, check with elec/carby cleaner

now that the car is working etc, you should be able to open your old tune in datalogit and do a WRITE ALL to put the tune back to its previous unlocked state it may be a datalogit bug where unlocking certain tunes mangles stuff but the tune itself is OK, so if you save it, DATA INIT, write the tune back its all OK if you have unstable idle read the PFC FAQ For self install theres a 30 min self idle you are supposed to do when you do DATA INIT

hmm i might be on different bigpond speed plan 1.2mb/sec down and 52kb/sec up and im on the new pricing plan, $49.95 for 25GB sweet as

you may find by just replying you are giving information away the script will be looking at the grammer, content, word, para-phrases etc and categorising all of these it is likely to do this to 100's of 1000's of people to essentially 'fingerprint' human style respones

no, the term FC Pro is misleading by apexi. its covered in the powerfc faq in my sig FC Pro is software apexi use to tune powerfc's. the 1st generation of powerfcs were only tunable by the hand controller the 2nd generation of powerfcs were plastered with silver "FC PRO" stickers on the side of the case and were tunable by the hand controller and software apexi made (and later sold to the public). the software is apexi fc pro and it lets you connect it to your computer / laptop. the common misconception is that any powerfc that has the original silver "FC Pro" sticker on the side of the case meant that is an Apexi PowerFC Pro unit. this meant it contained 0km/h launch control and spark cut instead of fuel cut. The silver "FC pro" sticker acctually indiciates that you can connect it to the apexi's FC Pro software

http://www.paulr33.com/downloads/simr.rar unrar and run simr.exe no need to install load pit, BNR34 stock then change the tune to L (low tune i think) then do a stock 1/4 mile and see how you go then change the diff gears as you like you can even copy the gear ratios from BCNR33 (write them down on paper) and edit them into BNR34 ratios result is BNR34 with 5 speed ratios only problem is there is no dyno feature, so all you can do is 1/4 mile at flat knacker

send us your saved datalogit tune, ill check it vs the stock evo maps the tuner is string is from apexi fc pro and datalogit its used to tag features in datalogit, ie anti lag and other junk ignore it

yeah understand re : using the biggest size intake you can find and match it to the turbocharger snout size but the Q45 just doesnt seem worth the effort, too many contridictions, different model #s etc

after some thought i see no reason to use or bother with a Q45 given the Z32 rates higher, is smaller in size and easier to source why bother with the Q45 there are a number of different part #s for the Q45 and its not supported on all PFC's so ill be updating my PFC FAQ to say no to Q45 as it's a pointless mod and only add's confusion and poor results the z32 is higher rated and works everytime, direct swap from 80mm and easier to source

i actually just remebed the original chart apexi has for power level vs AFMs <Reference> 80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW) 80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW) 90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW) so you can see they rate the Z32 higher

a Z32 is fine for upto around 350rwkw, i think ash did 360rwkw with one and it was fine the Z32 is easier, because its cheaper, easier to find, works well every time, is 80mm - so direct swap, same bolt pattern etc The Q45 is probably more annoying is it's less common, larger 90mm so you have to change pipework etc and theres the gotcha in that you may get one that performs like ass, ie; possibly non-geniune Q45 or something that looks like a Q45 and it isn't

i see no reason why a geniune Q45 would have poor idle i would suspect something is wrong, ie wrong AFM, damaged AFM, dirty etc when we say fake Q45, as in, someone that think's it's a Q45, sold as a Q45 (on ebay etc) but it *may* be just another nissan OEM looking AFM that has the same yellow label and size

re: AFM's and signal the ECU actually takes an average of both AFM signals and uses this for it's load axis calculation. by having two AFM's you ensure the signal is a good split between both turbochargers if you run one AFM (as some do) you can wire up the output Signal wire from the single AFM into AFM 1 and 2 inputs on the ECU this effectively gives the same result as the ECU will just perform average anyway. the apexi SAFC lets you do the same thing. that is, use two AFM's on a single AFM ECU or single AFM on twin AFM ECU. both should work. the same can apply for djetro map sensor, but the known gotcha is manifold pressure is "finiky" on individual throttle body setups i believe this is why the map sensors must be installed verbatim to apexi's documentation on the GTR for correct operation re: Q45 AFM hi we have been trying to identify real Q45 AFMs vs bogus ones and we never found an answer we think there is more than 1 style / batch of Q45 and some work really well aka 400rwkw and some work like ass sub 200rwkw id be interested to see your part # and model # but a real geniune Q45 as apexi intended it, should idle off the bat with their VH41 AFM selected off the ramp table

agree go see a new mechanic something sounds fundamentally wrong until then, dont floor it and dont load it up it sounds like its on unlimited boost mode if you want to try yourself check and trace the vac lines to your actuator (gold bulb on the turbo) i bet its either cut, disconnected or mangled or botched boost control kit install failing that check the PFC settings SETTING, BOOST what does it look like in there, which one is highlighted

change the colour of your day, crunchie

no, when you do a DATA INIT, it will erase the entire tune back to defaults the default map will be what apexi set the standard map on the EVO PFC to

big single T04Z