paulr33

why are you assuming its fuel? it could be a sensor? it could be a mechanical problem? it could be a mismatched part? it could be the tune? run the stock ecu diag or check the HKS for any diagnostics surely it would have some sort of sensor check section or basic engine sensors check all the basic sensors first and then see if it gives you any diagnostics has it been tuned or had any basic config etc? you cant expect a stock ecu to run big injectors and just work, so youll need to tell the HKS it has bigger injectors, and im sure some sort of base map

its fuel correction - they are Low and High load, its covered in the Powerfc hand controller documentation

N1 AFM? There is no such thing.... A GTR AFM is a GTR AFM, no more no less the only optional GTR AFM is the Nismo AFM which is essentially the Z32 inside a GTR AFM Shell the part # will be completely different, the colour label will be different the plug will be the same and the phyiscal AFM will be the same check my site paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com under diagrams into for the different AFM options and what they look like

find out why it failed no point spending $5k only to find a month or two later it fails again for the same reason

yeah if its auto you need to keep the stock ecu the car will be angry if put an Powerfc in it so go with the SAFC didnt realise it was auto sorry

hello sandra please read "How does the PowerFC compare with the Apexi SAFC, AVCR and other Apexi computers?" http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#18 and "Apexi SAFC vs Apexi PowerFC, whats the difference?" http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#58 the first section at the top titled unit information has every question you could think of http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

its nothing to do with the PFC. as the previous guy said check the basics and intercooler pipes its likely a joiner has come loose or a pipe has come apart or joiner split failing that, to prove the PFC isnt at fault, get a stock ECU and plug it in, youll likely have the same issue is the PFC isn't at fault

go and read everyone else is capable of doing it themselves, either read and learn more or get a mechanic to install it most guys wont reply as they have been helping guys install boost controllers and t'vavles for the past few years they get sick of replying with the same answers every time. there must be over 100+ how to install boost controller threads there would be literally dozens on the powerfc boost kit and the AVCR kit (they use the same solenoid, wiring and vacuum tubes). so you could search on those, you could read the PFC FAQ you could read the numerous how to boost controller threads, you could look in the tutorial section you could google boost control kit how to and so on

couldnt make it guys but thanks to hamish and mel and anyone else involved in making this event i know hamish was talking about this at the last club meeting and he had put in a great amount of effort in his own time thanks for doing this for the club and taking the initative - sounds like a tops event!

HKS make them, check out www.nengun.com under HKS

any competent workshop that knows auto elec and skylines can fix it why on earth would you wait 1.5 months? there must be a dozen recommended sau vic workshops, check the thread at the top of the vic section

happy birthday and all the best from sau vic cheers

stickers on, but on the rear quarter windows ive had this on my bonnet http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...ar/IMG_2296.JPG and the standard window quarter one and no issues with cops etc the bonnet one has been there for about 5 years now and no issues with cops. the sticker is pretty dead now and i wouldnt like to take it off, so best keep them on your window

thanks heaps guys was a great day so all good

check the basics? when did the problem occur? whats changed since it started happening? assume stock bov and intake setup? confirm? yes/no assume standard boost? confirm yes/no have you tried ECU reset? have you checked idle RPM (sticker on bonnet identifies target idle RPM) have you checked timing with timing light the common basics will likely resolve this issue it sounds like its stalling may even be auto box related has that been checked since the auto box service?

i guess the reason here is apexi couldnt be bothered emulating the onboard diagnostics when their own hand controller will give you the info you need

read the PFC FAQ perform DATA INIT set injector correct (in the FAQ) set afms from the menu check other sensors start car and perform base idle (in the FAQ) baby around until full tune then drive to tuner when you are ready and get it tuned

a pump that fails is fine a pump that can't keep up is the one that makes the engine go bang typically the walbro's expect higher voltage, when they run at 14v they dont flow as much fuel, thus the engine can lean out this is when your engine goes bang. if the pump fails and stops flowing fuel, the engine stalls, no harm done

my advice is change nothing, especially front/rear tyres just go and try and few things out, dont drastically alter the setup of your car, vs how it is setup on the street if anything drop the rear pressure to around 20psi and just see how you go

its an engine bay, its still going to get hot no matter what you do

ive used E10 from shell, the car ran fine and no problems, no rebuild light, no bang bang, no checker plate falling out, no danger to manifold light. i think from memory i backed out a few deg of timing (mine has aggressive tune) so no noticable issues etc i can try it again if someone wants me to i need to fill up and E10 is local to me do u want me to fill out with std ign maps (as is) in summer tune and let you know how much i get?

happy bday and all the best take it easy

the r34 might have better security, or a lower stolen ratio so its cheaper

its meant to veer to the left ever so slightly if you take your hands off the wheel its a safety feature designed to make you not run onto the wrong side of the rd just check how much - if in doubt goto a wheel balance / suspension place

goto your local car audio place? pick 3, compare prices and go for the mid one