paulr33

yeah its the xenon headlights the proper xenons are worth over $1000 the mock up blue/white globes are sub $100

yes sorry, i missed that you can run the narrow output from the wideband sensor/unit into the PFC (or any other stock style ECU) and let the ECU run its normal closed loop etc. the GTR PFC grabs the two 02 sensors and averages them, so you can parrellel it up no problems. it just has two sensors, as you said, likely because it has two exhaust outlets, so pick the average from both

it would seem unreasonable that new splitfires would last 2 months ive had splitfires in mine for about 2 years ish now and no problems i would expect 10 years from a set of coils? given the stock ones die around 15years ish ? id say something else is causing an issue with your setup it could be a few things, so check everything and check the basics usually the often most simplistic and basic thing can make it run like ass ie check bolts, plugs, cables, connectors, joiners, wires, hoses etc

paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm

vspec has vspec based diff which is computer controller active LSD (light on dash cluster, next to 4wd) vspec has vpsec diff (with finned cover) vpsec has faster 4WD computer, the computer looks at the sensors more times/second vspec has different suspension vspec II probably different suspension and tyres vs Vspec I and normal GTR for detailed info check here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline_GT-R in either case a vspec vs vspec II the model difference is pointless you would be typically far better off buying a normal vspec and spending the price difference on mods etc vs buying a legit vspec II and getting little to no extra benefit. the main big advantage form normal BNR34 to BNR34 vspec is the faster 4wd computer

check justjap.com or import monster or rampant imports

no you cant feed a wideband 02 sensor input into the PFC you could use a wideband <-> narrowband converter for the 02 sensor signal but that would defeat the purpose you either have the wideband 02 sensor runing to a wideband 02 gauge or to a digital input on the ECU in order to drive it to the PFC correctly you need datalogit and plug it into one of the 5v digitla inputs then you can plot and log digital 5v input from the wideband sensor onto the maps and lots for tuning

agree strarting the car with 02 sensors unplugged or disabled is no issue, it will just waste fuel but it will run and work fine

its the actuator and the actuator setup it is the sole device for boost control check or change the actuator check the dump setup check the boost controller (if you have one)

thankls added to pfc faq

mmm pub

tik tok

dont forget

agree 100% if you have some knob navigating by holding a nokia blah blah in his hand and reading that while driving, then thats gotta be illegal as above

my advice is find a locally SAU supported 3" Split dump pipe to suit your car model ie bos importing / ces / and some of the other known traders, just jap etc then take the front/dump split 3" pipe in one to your local exhaust shop and ask for fit this pipe plus the highest flowing 3" catback system you can and you will get what you want telling them specifics, and flanges etc, they probably wont care or want to care if you take the front/dump pipe to them they cant get it wrong

im going to go with thursday @ elephant wheelbarrow what time, meet just after 5 ish ?

intel reports wednesday night may be more suitable? agree/disagree? local intel also reports elephant wheelbarrow is good for food i dont mind where we go

we are going to a pub in the city thursday night for a meal and a beer id say it will be the limerick arms as its nice and easy to get to (just up claredon st) confirm if you are coming so i know how many you snooze, you loose

imho if you have to tap your own external wastegate onto the housing as a ghetto external setup something is seriously flawed in the setup. i would consider the "drill your own external wastegate" as a complete last resort. id rather sell the setup and buy something else vs doing that

i agree with ash it just sounds like a lot of hassles, effort and mish mash parts and costs it would end up cheaper, easier, quicker and a better result to just get an rb25det too often we see people "trying to be different" or "trying custom" and its just a waste of time, effort and $

the reason i say 3rd gear is - the torque is very high my gtst with pfc, 3" exhaust, intercooler, splitfires, 12psi, aggressive tune and 4th gear makes around 190rwkw and 500nm ish a 3rd gear run of my car would net well over 200rwkw and torque would be more and it would avoid stock ecu speed cut too

check the dyno run wasnt done in 3rd gear with shoutout mode off a typical GTST with basic to very basic/mild mods can peak near 200rwkw in 3rd gear and give misleading results its fairly normal to make 200rwkw in 4th gear with remap/ecu/piggyback and boost, exhaust, intercooler

its stock and standard, standard boost is about right also std units are garrett oem's

i remember when i was looking at buying my r33 there was a VHS video going around with drifting along gt ocean rd, from memory it was just before moggs creek, across the bridge if my memory serves me correctly the video was done by RBPOWR or R32PWR - not rosco's car, i think it was an rb30et R31

its covered in the nissan service manual abs diag howto it also covers basic diagnostics tips (even with consult) and what to check for when was it working last (was it ever?) i expect the main ABS unit which from memory could be part of the boot mounted computer looks at wheel speed on each wheel, likely TPS and main vehicle speed i would assume has anyone been hacking your loom? any inline hackers like SAFC? RSM? speed cutters etc? these shouldnt affect it, but maybe someone has done a botched install and cut one of the ABS sensors i would suggest check wiring and main ABS control unit (under bonnet, left had passenger side at the front) check all fuses and basic sensors from nissan consult (cable and software for sub $100 on the forums) read the service manual for basic diagnostics fialing that, goto nissan dealer and ask to fix but be prepared for $$$ if the light is on, your ABS is disabled that is, if you are driving and lock up the brakes, ABS wont fire, and you will skid when ABS is working the light is off, when you lock the brakes, the ABS unit fires a rapid pulse on the brake fluid line this in turn allows the brake calipers to open/close rapidly, then is turn, removes the "skid" properties of the wheel and lets you gain control instead of lock and skid with no control