paulr33

i got one of these on my r33 but more of a DIY style one that bassjunky made we gained zero by doing it, the factory setup was prefect as the others have said, the stock ones are adjustable, but you have to pull it out to adjust it pete's thing (like the greddy one) made it so you can adjust it while the gear is on the car

yeah try 240rwkw on the street after repeated runs im sure the core will be efficient

no it is the same regardless i recommend 1. read the PFC FAQ 2. plug in PFC 3. turn car to ON but don't start it 4. actvivate DATA INIT (erase tune) 5. turn car off 6. turn car to ON but don't start it 7. disable boost control kit if you arent using it 8. check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK for any errors 9. dial in required injector and AFM corrections (if you have non-std) 10. start car and perform self idle learn procedure 11. power car off once done and restart to ensure stable idle it's critical during the 30 minute idle learn you dont tap the accel or drive the car or play around just follow the instructions, turn on the demister and aircon as instructed by the self idle procedure if you do it wrong, the car will start and stall instantly, if this happens, DATA INIT and start again

you need the optional boost control kit installed to log boost the boost control kit is about $350 ish from memory but if just want to log boost (like i did) then you can buy the boost control harness (plugs and wires) for about $35 and then the map sensor for $195 and plug it in and it works a treat - ie without the boost solenoid otherwise you need to buy the whole kit for $350 and then not use the boost control feature once you install the map sensor BOOST is displayed on the hand controller and it comes up in the logs the PFC will also enable some of the additional the correction tables off the boost reading ie temp correction vs boost

it sounds like you've already made the decision? it's a just a bov

GTS4 with RB20 or RB25? i would go ball bearing highflow from gcg.com.au

pointless mod go back to the standard unit or GTR bov

the beeping is probably a boost warning level or overboost reminder check what controller model and brand and find its manual the HICAS light may come on if the speed wire (53) on the ECU loom has been cut (to avoid the 180kmh speed cut) either ignore it or check the ECU wiring and look at wire 53, its probably cut

happy bday and all the best have a good one

must be good

EAS in airport west cheap as chips, quick as, spot on accuracy in regards to time frame, price and work involved veryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy cost effective i was gobsmacked when they did my 200k service

sounds reasonable

of course if you break the law then that's going to happen if you want to avoid defects then keep it stock or do minimal mods that can be changed back to stock with no fuss and little cost

check the basics check timing with timing light reset stock ecu change 02 sensor

he is saying (as am i) that its probably a junker product if you are up to trial fitting and mechanically minded etc then go for it fit it at home and set it all up and away you go if the part is ass you remove it and go to how it was if you arent and you have to pay a workshop to do it then its probably wasted $ as the part could be ass

is this a cheap chinese no-brander ebay part or is it a proven HKS / Trust / Greddy item? im guessing a cheap chinese ebay no brander part so its probably not proven / useful i mean, the exhaust gas is forced out one way and full throttle then a 90deg port is opened i dont how other gates are setup but im certain they aren't 90deg bends ? i agree with external gate for better control and stability sure but if you goto the effort and $ of external gate, you should really do it properly ghetto external gate setups = not my preference you get what you pay for basically

yeah as ash said check the basics the engine has that much done to it, it could be a dozen things check base timing, check tune, check cam gears

if the car wont start at all or even try and crank over id say the timing belt is toast it may have failed then smashed all the valves etc pull the cam belt cover off and inspect it visually if (and only if) the belt has snapped id say its likely the workshop who did it may have made an error we have seen it a few times in the past, due to error a part of the process is missed or skipped etc the end result is the car runs with a new belt but it snaps shortly after when the belt snaps as the engine is an interferance engine, it smashes all the valves etc (engine is toast)

yeah the BNR32/BCNR33 powerfc has a known misfire bug, its included in the PFC FAQ (search for misfire) theres dozens of notes, tricks, possible workarounds and things to try etc some work, some dont, there is no official work-around / fix yeah and in regards to FCC NT, etc you won't be able to use FCC 3 as that is the hand controller model which is shipped as a pair ie originally hand controller and PFC unit were sold seperately so we had FCC, FCC NT, FCC 2 then apexi marketing changed it to be one big package so we had hand controller and PFC for same price FCC 3 and PFC so FCC 3 will only work on PFC units sold as a bundle (some people might only sell the HC for example) so if you have older generation PFC (that was sold as single unit )then you need the first gen hand controller FCC NT or 415-N001 for nissan the best way to tell what generation you have look at the serial if its PFC-RB25 or PFC-RB26 etc etc then its first gen if its PFC-ECR33 or PFC_BNR32 etc then its second gen they migrated for ENGINE based model codes to car based model codes and this is the best known way to pick when generation you have and what hand controller you need

ok so you said the timing belt, pulleys and pump were changed 3 weeks ago ok so first thing is to check the state of those, do a visual inspection can you see any damage on the belts, does you see any bits of metal shavings lying around? what lights come on ? did you say oil pressure light? does the guage also show low oil pressure? does it idle at all or even start? when it went bang (or no bang as you said) any smoke ? what colour? and after all that speak to the place that did the belts etc and advise them something has failed it could be their fault or it could be non related and a big conicedence, your best bet is to discuss with them

we all said the SMIC replacement is pointless the issue with the smic is lack of airflow and the core is tiny vs how much work it has to do just do what everyone else does and fit a FMIC it can be done with chopping the reo bar (mine isnt chopped, many others arent) and if installed correctly can still be stealth ish

am i missing something? why not just tune the car and set it up better so that the GT30 setup is more progressive and controllable ?

is the engine check light ON? if so, its a sensor (ie AFM dead or unplugged) check the hand controller, ETC SENSOR SW CHECK, anything odd? if all ok, its a cooler pipe / joiner would explain psi then running like 8psi

read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...p;hl=smic+soak# and continue reading in that thread read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...tml&hl=SMIC

no you have missed the point completely of smic vs fmic the issue is not power, as covered in the dozens of threads on SMIC upgrades the smic will make 200rwkw no problems it could make 300rwkw no problems but thats not the point read the threads