paulr33

do you mean the SITC and SAFC older models?

just go for a local supported stand alone i think a lot of poeple go remap route and then regret it later on

still waiting on the FC sorry guys. i should have been shipped from jap on the 20th

depends on the compressor model you are using the compressor map would give you the true answer to this but a 30R will flow quiet a lot of air even at 10psi so you might be on the border line, a dyno plot will give you the answer if you cant find the compressor map info or dont care about the map and reading it

$20 its one of normal members taking the piss out of FI for some fun

no i meant 78psi i say this because PSI is pointless in comparison for this sort of thing. it means absolutely nothing. PSI is only relevative to the compressor you are using. if he tried to run 14psi on a GT40 then the stock injectors have no hope. if he tried 14psi on the stock turbocharger then its fine. so 78psi on the stock turbo is probably fine for stock injectors. it wont flow any useful air past 12psi anyway so the other 66psi is just extra heat and nothing more.

boost is relevant to turbine compressor on the stock turbo you can run 78psi on stock injectors and you will be fine, wont run out of flow

its a shame none of these hiflows have compressor maps this would take away lots of guess work thats for sure i dont think youll make any useful power past 15psi but good look at you are doing is driving the compressor faster by increasing pressure the gate opens later, pressure is higher, air temp is higher and turbine spins faster

the stock 34 compressor wont give you the airflow you want forget 4psi or 300psi, it simply wont

you are a value to community, thanks for taking the pics ill put them on my site

past 240rwkw i dont think you will make any more power every extra psi you dial in just induces more detonation and bugger all power per psi past 1 bar the compressor probably cant supply any more useful past 1 bar of compressor speed

it will be the black wire. the two common colour wires are heater wires. the guage will never show you anything useful so i wouldnt bother

mine was blowing smoke after i ddidnt change the oil for a long time

the r33 auto actuator is actually less then 7, its 5psi the manual one is 7psi i would run the r32 actuator get either stand alone ecu, get a fuel cut defender, safc, piggyback to remapped ecu basically its pushing more air through which is activating the factory protection as theres too much airflow also make sure you have the usual exhaust mods

what oil and when did u last change it

howstuffworks.com will tell you all you need to know

there are items on ebay, and there are items on ebay some are completely dodgy items : scams, electronic superchargers for 75HP which are a fan in the intake pipe on an n/a car those 5HP resistors etc 600HP turbos for $600 not hks apexi nismo greddy tomei ashtray dodgy traders then there are good bargains well well know traders and shop "runners" usually have really high feedback and sell good stuff just cheap without the added bullcrap of running a normal retail store choose carefully but remember there are lots of bargains just be careful, double check, ask, lots of reading and check their feedback

have you sent the afm back? can u take some hires photos of the unit and all the markings for us ? so we can be aware of what a fake / non legit z32 looks like ?

i hear hks have a djetro pro powerfc FCON hks greddy ecu

no one in australia its a standard ecu remapped by mines just like central 20, brain, impul. they are all remaps of the stock ecu you are much better off with a locally supported ecu

if you live next to a mines certified workshop it would be awesome but there are none in australia so it would be useless

i cant find it either i am pretty sure dangerman found it he has a modded auto box setup see if you can find his username and pm him

i have no idea, i think you just unplug something read the article, it should tell you

its how well the tuner can tune it but it will become a comprimise solution at some point in time there will be a point where its advancing the timing too much which induces detonation so it will drop the low octane map so you have to back it off a little and keep it conservative

its in the tutorial section locks the autobox in 3rd gear instead of jumping around might help give a better power curve and indication against manual cars