paulr33

its all good

ive met smokey he is ok the rest of you lot.....

well liz isnt coming so one of you lot will receive some wrath

i also remember the "NSW FTW" drawn on my window at wakefield so u better watch out, its payback time i am not scared

can i enter the long wang with my mountain bike

if you keep selling cars at this rate youll need your own LMCT number i am being serious

yeah thats the limited edition d1 hand controller only 100 of them ever made would love to see a photo of it

it will be fine

plastic/nylon compressor and ceramic exhaust wheel boost simply drives the shaft speed the higher the shaft speed the more likely it is to fail boost is also dependant on the engine and turbocharger so 14psi on the rb20 with an rb25 turbo might be ok as it flows less exhaust gas vs the rb25 engine at the same turbine speed

given you are stuck with the stock ecu i reckon the emanage is your best bet but you need it installed correctly and a competent tuner for it there was some early installl issues and frying coilpacks but i think thats all fixed now

blitz lm it costs lots

i dont understand why you want a laggy turbo? dont you know how to drive and control your acceleration.. ? pick a turbo that dishes out the power you want then you have fat midrange everywhere and can destory stuff off on the line instead of a stock gemini beating you off the line

i agree emanage is a good idea get that let you tune as much as you can im thinking of gettting an emanage so i can do a faq on it wouldnt mind it given pfcs are hard to source now

get a stand alone ecu get a real tune unless you are auto? if so get a remap or get safc & sitc and tune tune tune tune forget the cold air intake as long as you arent sucking in hot hot air it wont help much also make sure you arent bleeding via a stupid bleed valve and a leaky actuator ideally do a dyno run with the boost line removed (unlimited boost mode bang bang) and see what the ramp looks like you may find the bleed valve and actuator are opening early

there is a billion threads on these turbochargers do a search its all covered

my top 10 list 1. stand alone ecu 2. tune 3. tune 4. tune 5. tune 6. tune 7. tune 8. exhaust manifold / housing setup 9. good boost controller 10. good cold air instake

nick read the thread in my signature it covers that exact thing

i have no idea and the tuner will probably laugh at you and tell you that you brought the wrong model thats because, well you did. until i try it and it works there is nothing more really. it could fry my car for all i know.

they actually have a hybrid gt3540. and being an inline 6, 4 litre you would expect that. it also has a cropped compressor cover to limit output. it needs a large rear housing to handle the exhaust gas it flows but the cropped cover holds it back so saying its a "good" turbo is nothing but usless for your application. 9.5" tyres are great but what about the rest of the stuff thats required for traction? shocks? diff cradle? pineapples? bushes? and more to the point as you step in larger turbocharges you move the power band the hks gt-rs, 2530 and hiflow are narrow powerbands which give you linear power all the way through, that is good fat midrange and not peaking. the 30's series turbochargers and up are usually larger exhaust housings which give you lag lag lag lag lag lag, power, wheelspin, change gears but its your $ do what you like the best setup for a 30 sized turbo would be proper exhaust manifold and external gate instead of internal gate on the stock maniifold

you are a clown. read the info before posting. there are a few versions of the gt-rs. there is an sr20 version and an rb25 version. govich is spot on the money hks gt-rs, hiflow or 2530 for mild gtst. 3040 is just more stress, lag, wheelspin, bog the dog, heat and rebuild light with expensive internals

thats what i am doing

my idea is months away if it works so dont hold out

just bypass the factory stupid head valve and run 7psi all the time theres a howto guide in the tutorial on how to bypass it but yes, with no changes at all i should remove the factory stupidhead dual stage

my signature could be an option

163rwkw sounds realistic lots of things can affect the readouts, post both dyno sheets one could have air temp correction, the other might not one could be in a different gear or different ramp rate etc