paulr33

if you sort out the fuel reg and get a boost controller and run 1.2 bar youll make a stackload more power

185rwkw if you do the auto box hack maybe 210rwkw

Z32 Air flow meters I have Z32 Air Flow Meters. I have an orange sticker on each AFM with 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 printed on it. A Bosch cross reference document (see the link below) shows that both Bosch part numbers F00E000202 and 2268063107 are replacements. I am also told that they are cheaper than the Nissan part. There's a Tutorial on the Skylines Australia forum (see my main page for the link) on how to connect the wiring.

selecting the wrong AFM or using the wrong AFM ramps will give screwy results on the load axis map and tuning but wont make it max out. ie: if the afm is reaching 5v then its measuring as much air as it phyiscally can. what the ecu does with that value is upto the ecu. the ecu logic for airflow ramp and control is done after the signal is read in

yes there is djetro pro it includes a nintendo gameboy as the hand controller so you can play super mario land whilst tuning

whats AFM1 value at idle? when you rev it a few times does it return to the same value? have you checked for any piping leaks? are u sure the car is dynoed correctly? not 3rd or auto or something obvious? what rpm is it maxing at ?

hi, there are some known gotchas when using the powerfc djetro. you have chosen to ignore all of those warnings but ill recap them for you anyway. as you are dealing with multiple throttle bodies you have to be careful of the placement of the map sensors. if its not done properly you may face tuning issues. most good known workshops who have done a djetro GTR should be familiar with how to set it up. if they havent' dont a djetro before then be prepared to wait and have $$$ it will take longer to tune than the afm equivalent ljetro version. youll need the optional parts as well, map sensors, loom, and fittings. any of your apexi resellers can source these for you including www.nengun.com as the powerfc djetro is a 2d map ECU once you are on max boost that you have set on your GTR the load axis never increases. this will reduce the number of usable load points, not by a massive amount but it will. 3d ecu's like autronic can scale against the TPS for a 3rd dimension to give some more accuracy. but again once on max load, generally the TPS is nailed too but it would help out on light cruise / light load. the install for the djetro kit has some specific documentation and wiring notes so be sure to read them correctly and make sure the installer knows what they are doing. the retail apexi software is a basic cut down FC pro software so it just allows map read and copy so its somewhat limited and a big flop for the $500 AU that it costs. you are much better of buying fc datalogit from www.fc-datalogit.co.nz and using that instead. this will give you complete control, logging, external inputs etc and last but not least there is no apexi powerfc djetro pro. you can either have pro or djetro, not both. apexi in their super cool drag car run a "secret" powerfc firmware i suspect which is djetro and pro versions in one firmware. so i suspect you want normal djetro powerfc and not the pro version.

theres an rb20 ap eng FC on ebay for $1800 with bids good son of rajab, thats hideous geez i hope this really works

ash i might be heading out in the city sat night after switch if that helps get u back to home somewhere

ash is an awesome cook can cook for me any time sugar

if you do all that be sure to replace the standard ceramic turbochargers

you guys r retarded you obviously dont trust them enough or are scared its only a car ffs, get over it

how useful, thanks dan welcome to 2006

my gf was on my full comp policy didnt adjust the premium at all with full coverage

ffs read http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#61

ball bearing oil cooled water cooled plasic nylon compressor ceramic exhaust wheel around 0.50 a/r front compressor not sure of rear, maybe 0.55a/r ish or 0.60a/r

if something is going to fail its going to be when you push that bit more harder or try and squeeze in that extra psi or two. why not just get your car setup and tuned on the highest safest setting properly and run that all the time regardless.

Congrats and well done, wishing you good luck for 07

195.6awkw

given that it is silver i would say 195awkw

highflow panel filter

it will be a plain remap, so no one can touch it unless they have remap tools for ER34 dr drift in melbourne might be able to sort it out otherwise theres a dude in sydney who can do them (dont know name sorry) ideally get a locall supproted ECU so you can goto any tuner. but as far as bang for $ it might be ok, it will have the limits all removed and maybe some more timing. its probably rich as all hell as well (assumption)

half the price of the avc-r

the only time it would bring it on earlier was if your gate was leaking or opening too early ie: if the gate was opening say when it started 3-4psi even though the spring is say 7psi it could being to open prematurely. with the bleed valve it just limits the signal to the actuator an ebc can block the signal completely until target boost is reached and then show the signal to the actuator or it can slowly bleed pressure to it progressively from say 9psi so that wont spike its ass off in your case, it wont do anything most likely but there are some advtanges to a good quality EBC - digital readout, no need for a guage - overboost protection, so if something changes it wont just ramp to whatever the engine feels like (except for human error with wastegate signal) - corrected boost control (during summer and winter it shoud always be say 11psi exactly and not spike to 12.5 when its colder nights like a bleed valve would) you dont have to pay billions for an ebc i was against paying $500+ for an ebc so i got an old school style HKS EVC II, works well and does everything i need, set and forget