paulr33

A/R A/R describes a geometric characteristic of all compressor and turbine housings. It is defined as the inlet cross-sectional area divided by the radius from the turbo centerline to the centroid of that area. * Compressor A/R - Compressor performance is largely insensitive to changes in A/R, but generally larger A/R housings are used to optimize the performance for low boost applications, and smaller housings are used for high boost applications. Usually there are not A/R options available for compressor housings. * Turbine A/R - Turbine performance is greatly affected by changing the A/R of the housing. Turbine A/R is used to adjust the flow capacity of the turbine. Using a smaller A/R will increase the exhaust gas velocity into the turbine wheel, causing the wheel to spin faster at lower engine RPMs giving a quicker boost rise. This will also tend to increase exhaust backpressure and reduce the max power at high RPM. Conversely, using a larger A/R will lower exhaust gas velocity, and delay boost rise, but the lower backpressure will give better high RPM power. When deciding between A/R options, be realistic with the intended vehicle use and use the A/R to bias the performance toward the desired powerband.

none whatsoever i dont think, the t25 i am pretty sure referes the flange option, which is the connecting plate to the manifold. ie: an rb30et with a t25 flange should plonk on the stock skyline t25 manifold with no problems (dumps, exhaust aside etc)

the stock ecu has excess airflow protection, that is, it will protect itself if too much air is coming in via the airflow meter. this is usally assocaited with someone fitting a boost controller & a bigger exhaust or a combination of either. the stock ecu has a ramp for what it considers is too much airflow for a given RPM range and if it (afm voltage) exceed's this value it kicks the timing out the window and runs mega rich. the ecu assumes something is wrong and backs off timing/afr to protect itself, hence the name "excess airflow protection". its other names in "boost cut" or "rich and retard" as simply thats what it is.

stock rb20 = t3/t25 (smallest) stock rb25 = t3/t25 (medium) stock rb25 neo = vg30 size (large) stock rb30et = t3/t25 (not sure, large i think) smallest = somewhere near 0.45a/r maybe? medium = 0/50 a/r ish ? large = 0.55 a/r ish ? t28 is found on the sr20 (silvia, gtir, 200sx, 180sx)

a bunch of imports parked at a shopping centre, details of all the owners going to the movies and what movie/time = perfect oppourtunity for thieves

i hear sarah has a new car delivery should be jan 22nd

have you thought about things like brakes, suspension, diff, gearbox, transfer case, etc etc all the drivetrain parts? as running 500awkw on stock gtr running gear thats 16 years old is a bit of a concern.

yeah i saw the 3 litre later on. see if you can find out what a/r the gt-rs's are and aim a tiny bit lower than that perhaps? you should defintely do the split dumps/fronts (trust ones i think are the bee's knee's) and ensure a big exhaust from the cats back

either are a really big twin combo, i hope you dont expect them to come on anytime soon. do a search for twin GT-RS's i think 600HP has them and i think OZGTR97V tried them as well (said too big for 2.6, more like 2.8 stroker). twin 2530s will give you good response and and really good midrange, plently for hill climbs etc. 700awhp is silly for hillclimbs. for hillclimbs boost repsonse is very very important, running large twin trust's or gt-rs's isn't going to cut it, far too laggy. i would suggest focusing more on midrange and average power

a remap will be better than an safc tune you can remap to support larger injectors what car / what engine

the ecu wont limit power exactly, stock injectors will max at 250rwkw

it just sounds like the calbiration is out, i didnt know the safc had a calibrate function. the car shouldnt be knocking at idle. it would be a really screwed tune or like the worst fuel known to man and the most advanced timing to make it knock at idle. so base it around its not humanly possible to knock at idle (extremely unlikely) and see how u go. driving around mid 20s to 30s is ok, its only when it gets up near 40/50/60 that it should become a concern. the powerfc throws the engine check light on when knocking goes past 60 so keep that in mind.

do some more reading, read all the parts of it, even the advanced sections on reading knocking signals. knocking has nothing to do with temperature outside. it is (the likely culprit) purely engine detonation that the knock sensor is picking up. the guide covers the possible causes (fuel, timing, heat, boost) and how to take action to correct it, minimize it and debug it with your tuner (giving them the right information will also help). whilst the guide is aimed at the powerfc, it should be the same logic for debugging it with the safc. the guide also goes on to list other causes for knock detonation which can include road noise, engine bay noise, mechanical rattles, etc

covered in the powerfc faq in great deal, you should read it (in my sig)

im not sure its a good idea to hack an exgate onto it. you are really band-aiding the problem with another hack solution. if the gate is too small then fitting an ex gate just moves that to somewhere else, it wont actually fix it. if this is what you are seeing the perhaps the rear a/r housing is too small for the engine?

strongly agree, why re-invent the wheel and go through the same heartaches as someone else has. buy an already built manifold. if you cant afford the manifold then how do you plan to afford all the other ancillaries to run the new larger turbo, not even thinking about the tune at this stage

if i could count how many threads there are on the kkr turbos, the ebay chinese copies and the other no brander (monsta) turbochargers i'd be rich man. please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; please try a search, its been covered a million times; anything and everything you want to know about the kkr, using chinese copies, getting 300rwkw, etc has been covered to death, all the good info is there

!!!one good a have, birthday happy

sell stock ecu, sell safc, powerfc and never look back

technically yes, they do not have unlimited life span

i too want to know as i need to book holidays if im going up

a bit bigger than a box of matches, its obviousl because it usually has large plastic tubing running to it, some poeple even have the air tubes in bright colours so its a giveway

r31power is spot on, get it tuned properly. can also try using some 100ron fuel to help take away some detonation

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_gizzmo.asp Launch Interface The FC Pro is actually 0km/h step limiter and spark cut

CMY32; did you report this incorrectly?