paulr33

If im re-elected for events I will look into having someone assist me with this (events running, planning, research). I am not sure on what work they will be doing with me or what % as yet. I want to get our site fast-tracked, work on our online signups and some other nifty treats for SAU.

from itbmills; I installed a new engine cover (the bit in the middle that covers the coil packs) - this allowed me to move the ignitor pack back up on top of the engine cover. I took that opportunity to make sure I had a good earth when I moved it (which I assume the guys from Mercury have not) Prior to having the engine cover on - the coils and the ignitor pack shared the same earth - and I was just using one of the screw holes that holds the coil pack (plug) leads in place I plan to make a dedicated earth strap over to the -ve battery terminal over the weekend The user reports that "New earth for the ignitor pack fixes it" Thanks Scott For an ongoing discussion you view it here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...22076&st=20

is it the misfire problem when its on boost? theres an unofficial fix, which is the in pfc faq ive done seemed to sort out a few people using r32 powerfc with misfire

so you have -larger aftermarket turbo -external wastegate -screamer pipe -ecu change -map sensor change -intake modifications and you are worried about be dicked for using a factory fitted bov?

mythbusters ahoy #1 there is no such thing as wastegate flutter #2 flutter or chop chop (vl style tutututututu) is air pressure collisions in the pipework, as a result of compressor surge, as a result of running no bov #3 a wastegate making a "vrrrooooooooommmmmm WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH" noise is a sreamer pipe setup, nothing to do with compressor surge, bovs, flutter etc. #4 compressor surge occurs when pressure past the compressor wheel exceeds what the map dictates, so if you goes beyond that, the wheel surges violently #5 when you block the bov, on gearchange the pressure collision causes the compressor wheel to surge, as we know #4 happens when pressure past the wheel goes beyond what the wheel can supply, so by blocking the bov, you induce compressor surge

same model to be exact, sarahs is feb 97

one good a have, birthday happy

read the faq (in my sig), it tells you in great detail how

hey my answer was legit

read the faq and learn how to fix it yourself, its pretty easy to me, thats the point of engine management, to manage the engine if you see the same spot each time detonating, the just back out a few deg of ign timing in that area, simple fix. should take no more than 5 minutes

lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of intercooler pipework, the biggest truck core you can find and metal pipework for the induction piping. larger compressor wheel will probably chop more so be sure to run a really big expensive bush bearing pesant spec T04 1980's turbo, run a stack load of boost, over 1 bar at least and throttle off and let it chop away.

mythbusters ahoy; gtr turbo flange is different to gtst turbo flange gtr twin turbo's are smaller than gtst single turbo gtr 2530s are not the same as single 2530 for gtst 14psi on an rb20 is not the same as 14psi on an rb25 neo split dump wont make any difference to turbo response

forget it

r32 @ 14psi != r34 neo @ 14psi the engines will flow diferent exhaust gas, temperatures and state of tune will affect it. so an rb20 with a er34 turbine at 14psi probably wont fail

read the FAQ again, it covers why it may insta-stall each time. make sure the AFM is set properly you need to do the self idle learn procedure again and follow the instructions (again in the FAQ) and do the complete procedure, and don't short skip it. be sure to test it before you say "ok its done"

compressor surge actually occurs when the pressure past the compressor outlet is greater than what the compressor can actually supply. that is, for example if the compressor map dictates that in the best possible turbine speed it can flow say 12psi of pressure and you are actually getting say 14psi. the compressor is forced to a speed beyond what it can supply in a stable state, so the compressor wheel surge's. it usually sounds like turbine or compressor wheel flutter as its coming on boost (vl turbo zzztttt ttt tttt tttt noises). you should discuss this with the place that supplied the turbocharger hiflow and do a few simple checks on your car setup. look for leaks, fouled intake tubes/pipes/clamps. check the bov setup.

i think bass junkys died at 12psi

all the help you need is in the faq, including the boost kit stall problem

its in the faq, keep reading

the problem you had and what to do once it starts it covered in the faq read the install procedure in it. covers everything to do and what to check once it starts and idles as well, also covers the self learn idle procedure

its a remap, not that exciting

from the faq: My car won't start when I plug in the PowerFC, but the stock ecu works fine First when dealing with a new PowerFC install and the car does not start there are a few basics to check; # Check the PowerFC to car loom connector # Check the warning lights on the dash, do they come up? # On the hand controller, goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK, are any sensors highlighted in black? (Shouldn't be) # Make sure you disable the Boost Control Kit if you aren't using it # Make sure you have the right airflow meter selected (if you have a non standard one) # Make sure you have correct injector settings (if you have non standard ones) # Check all fuses # Listen for clicking relays # Check for burning smells near the ECU and or inside the ECU # Inspect the ECU itself for physical damage or burn marks (open it up) Finally we have seen on a few skylines that the car works fine with the stock ecu but not the with PowerFC. It has been traced back to a missing fuse. The missing fuse is on the left side in the R33 GTST and its at position #7. According to the diagram it is Engine Control. Somehow the stock ecu works if this fuse is missing but the PowerFC doesn't See the diagram here for "Engine Control" which is a 10AMP fuse.

yeah it doesnt have anything to do with him, if you feel its wrong or incorrect you must not pay the infrigement and contact a masigratates court (info is on the infrigement notice) to goto court about it. the police officer at the time doesnt need to know how many points you already have or if the points he has just given you have tipped you over the point limit for your licence, as he has nothing to do with that. all he is interested in, is the current point infrigement.

the points are in effect the day the fine is issued it doesnt matter when you pay it you can pay it 3 years later, and the points are incurred on the day u got the infrigement / pulled over / camera photo taken. the payment simply means you accepted the infrigement as guilty and have paid it.

a deal is a deal, find out his surname (several ways) then look up his phone no# in the greypages and then send dogshit in the mail to his house over and over