paulr33

i think you are confused, there are a few concepts to the "limiter" device and how they work type 1 yank the throttle cable and rpm will fly to whatever you set the limiter to, so lets say 4100rpm and wont go beyond. mash the pedal / pull the cable and it wont go past 4100rpm so you have consistent rpm for launch each time type 2 same as type #1 but when it hits the set RPM it does spark cut so you get bang bang style antilag launch. when the spark it cut, it induces misfire which spool the turbo despite no engine load so you make boost whilst the car isnt moving. so when you take off you take off at 4100rpm with 1bar boost wound up in the manifold (lets say) and the compress its on full song when you launch. type 3 type 3 is a hybrid and lets you have 1 & 2 but also gives you spark cut when you push the clutch pedal in so you can flatshift with antilag style changes. come time to change gears, pedal in, spark cut activates, boost keeps buidling, clutch out and keep going ------------------- type 1 is just for consistent launches type 2 will fry the exhaust wheel / cat and any parts along the way. it will shoot flames, make lots of bang bang noises, pop its ass off and generally be rally car style antilag type 3 same as type #2 for type 2 you would want to have - steel wheel exhaust wheel on the turbocharger - no cat - hiflow exhaust and big dump/front pipes - a good safe tune and exhaust temp guage to watch the temps type 1 - not sure, i think the bee *R does this for you type 2 - gizmo launch interface @ www.apexi.com (under usa, electronics) type 3 - gizmo launch interface @ www.apexi.com (under usa, electronics) the first ill be buying when i have my evo is the gizmo box, the guys in the US/japland use these and can bring about 1.3 bar at launch pros will make kick ass launches bring on boost without engine load cons noisey need some precautions not for street use will annoy anyone nearby need good traction to use the launch rpm / power

wishing you all the best in the happy new year be safe and have fun and it will all be good from paul and everyone on the sau vic commitee

sell the 33 PFC, lots of people will want to buy that then read the powerfc faq on how to use the 26 PFC on your engine but it includes an injector change. otherwise, find an ap eng rb20 PFC

http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sea...=0jp&acc=jp can see at least 8 for sale, start at 4500 yen

u want to spend even more than 2k? geebus, u got money to burn in your pockets? contact some of the 2nd traders on this forum to see if they can source you an rb25 pfc, they are usually on yahoo auctions

im with psybic sorry, 4 channel ignition driver sucks

i know what i would do if it was my money how many people can tune the EMS? what features does it have? map? afm? closed loop feedback? what is the base map like? does it have any form of hand control / user input/output device or is it software only? is it a sequential ignition driver or batch fire? wire in or plug n play?

the bov has nothing to do with the wastegate. the wastegate does not make any noise. the factory bov is plumback and you will hear it revent on gearchange if you have a pod filter filter, as you can hear it echo in the intake pipes

buy a 26 PFC and spend $100 working out how to make VCT work and youll get working air temp and twin afm support

i would suggest getting it fixed and cleared what more is there?

does help but youve changed far too much to even get an idea of whats skewed the results, it could be as simple as the afm ducting trashing the afm signal around and bending the tune. or it could be the cams are offset or too big/small etc (i dont know) or it could be something else is wrong, cam timing is wrong, vct is off etc etc... anything odd in SENSOR SW CHECK when u do a dyno run or drive around? do the results change if you pull of the afm ducting and leave the AFM open mouthed? the only way u will know its the cams 100% is to put the old set back in and prove it, then and only then u will know for sure its them and can work out why, currently we are guessing. try and take out some of the possibilities to make it easier to work out which one is the baddie

adrian, any luck with sorting your angry AFM ?

i believe this same type of trick can also yield out compressor chuffing or shuffling, the problem usually arises from intake piping that uneven or inbalanced and the joiner pipe evens out the pressure difference in front of the compressor intake wheels

my tune does it every now and then, the main cause is its cell bouncing between different IGN spots, you can see it on map tracer, quickly swapping between two cells, if the ign varies alot on the adjacent cells it will lump around heaps. you can also getting it from messing with the afm ducting pipe width.

mine is 22680 6IU00 A36-000 P60 going cheap if anyone wants it inside the 3 wires are disconnected and need to be soldered onto the main socket for the plug

have a read of the powerfc faq, covers it in good detail

covered a million times, head a read over http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=intercooler+34 and then finally these http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=fmic+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=fmic+34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=fmic+34 thank you, have a nice day

its manifold vacuum, it should be -5 at idle

they look like speaker wires (and colours)

yes but 300rwkw on an rb25 is different to 300rwkw on an rb30 it will flow different amounts of airflow for a given RPM and i believe he was using ap eng RB20 which i think possibly the airflow ramps were a bit of out spec, ie: in the newer 5.10 RB25 PFC i think the ramps are bit better

for curious sake the FC runs in this order 1) read AFM voltage (in volts, 0.00 to 5.10v) 2) look at SETTING, AIRFLOW (work out what AFM is selected) - (normal, powerintake, vg30, vh41 etc) 3) select "airflow" value from airflow ramp table for the corresponding AFM (this is a load number, ie: 5533 is an airflow "load" number) 4) apply AIRFLOW correction (from SETTING, AIRFLOW, NEXT) - (this is in % for AFM voltage scales, there are 8 of them i think) 5) with the final answer from #4 select INJ and IGN from maps where LOAD = P and RPM axis = RPM

running out of load points is tunable maxing the afm at 5.1v is not if you are running out of load points (ie: it drops to row 20) then its tuneable and fixable with datalogit or power excel or fc pro if you are maxing the afm at 5.1v some time early (like 3 grand etc) then something is horribly wrong. the afm is shagged, wrong unit, its dirty, bad earth or something? for those that have this problem at idle what voltage do you see? what version of powerfc? (ETC, VERSION) if you give it a few revs at idle does it return to the same voltage each time? the numbers in the voltage ramp which are visible in datalogit, fc pro and power excel only control how it is placed on the load map, that is it wont control when it hits 5.1v but more determine where certain voltages hit the load axis. the numbers under SETTING, AIRFLOW control correction for load map placement, thse shift the final load axis up or down once it is calculated. again it wont affect voltage readings

hm ill check the one i have at home to see what serial # it is

on the r33 gtst it is not possible, there is no air temp sensor on the rb25 PFC so it doesn't work, hence u get --- on the display. so in summary, no

probably not it would whine n squeal like a bitch and usually make bugger all boost you may also see oil coming out of the throttle body / intercooler silicon joiners, that usually the oil seal in the turbo shagged