paulr33

read the faq in my sig, its covered in detail

the powerfc and safc dont have their own knock sensors, they use the cars factory one and simply display it to the use in a meningful value. i watch my sensor every day and it provide useful feedback on engine detonation. i use this to make an informed decision about load and ignition timing. they can be used for ign timing tuning and are quiet effective. they are not a replacement for a wideband sensor, and never meant to be. without knock sensor display the user would be unaware of engine deontation when driving. so the engine could be pinging and there would be no alerts, other than audible detonation

contact racingline in chelenham

search in vic for "High voltage" it was a problem i had about a year ago or so and reco prices and alterante alternator's to use

the stock guage is mmhg not psi, so +7 is actually almost 14psi

i think so

r33 gtst injectors will max around 250rwkw they will be on their knee's at this power level you can get a bit more out of them by upgading the fuel reg to bump the rail pressure up a little bit vct on the r33 is based on rpm, on until 4700rpm then it switches off with it off the car drives like a bucket of poo, much less response and zest

the intercooler well help drop the temps after the compressor outlet but if its sucking in hot air in the first place, its still going to be hotter

i wasnt saying to use the chaser PFC on your car i was just saying that the pfc does exist as both manual and auto versions, its just there are only nissan manual versions

agree keep the stocker and spend money on other stuff

haha pisser

i would expect they will have some in reserve for the next 12 months for warranty items

birthday happy

kermit green

it will idle hunt and surge a bit if you change the pipework diameter and don't vary it, if that make sense. like if you just put on 2" straight pvc for about 10 to 15cms it will idle hunt a bit and rev bounce a little i think the air just revbers over the pipework entrace and makes it bounce its pretty funny

how have you been doing the tuning? it sounds like you are hitting the rich and retard mapping on the stock ecu, which is based on airflow not boost pressure. what ecu are u using

do a search its covered a million times why no bov causes stalling

its stalling as you are running no bov

happy bday champ hope you have a good one

is it a dyno car or a track car both are completely different

different airflow meters different plugs on the throttle body post up some pics of it, we may be able to work it out

wise words you speak

i did the dual stage hack in my r33 then got a real boost controller theres a big thread in the tutorial on the r33 dual stage hack why not just run the highest boost you can all the time? thats why i moved to a real controlller, just didnt see the need for a dual stage system. but good on u for trying something and writing it up

monitor, looks like you can see torque converter, transfer temp and gear no#? setting menu, lots of auto logic control in here flex logic control lock up zone, kick back control maybe ? shiftmap etc menu

yeah, the toyota PFC has an auto version for the JZX100 chaser its an auto specific PFC, pretty sweet, check it out