Skyrine-Dave

nice explanation Daniel! I think a GTR cooler is ~600x300x76 in dimensions. But for all intents and purposes we'll say it is. How can you say a cooler is inefficient at xxxxKw's ? what are the tell-tale signs? I've got a few options, which may also temp other people: 1) Get a new core for my busted cooler 2) Get a new 'Hybrid' 600x300x76 $425 delivered to my door 3) Get a new 'Hybrid' 600x300x100 :wassup: $600 delivered to my door I just want to make the right decisions for my car, my power target AND for my wallet.

Ok I have a few questions and thoughts that have been bugging me. if you have something to contribute please do. Firstly... Why is it better to have a thicker intercooler core? my current intercooler is 600x270x55 core. I think this is going to be too restrictive if i am trying to make 450+Hp @ wheels. I was then thinking with a 76mm thick core air flow would be pretty good as you have 3" inlet/outlets... 2.5" inlet piping and 3" outlet piping. Therefore the intercooler isnt really a restriction in terms of size. How does a thicker core help with intercooler? and would it really matter for a street driven car with the occasional drag track work out? The "hybrid" intercoolers @ 600x300x76. Someone selling these has said they are rated at supporting 500-600hp. But I have checked places such as ARE who rate a cooler that size at supporting ~250-270rwkw (well below 500-600hp). So who is trying to sell me on their product? the supplier with a mass of cheap intercoolers... or the company wanting me to spend $$ on a larger cooler? Reason why i am tryin to find out is my current intercooler is only 55mm thick and has a taken a nice hit in the front from a concrete block. It still works fine, but i want to be using the best, and dont want to be inhibited by a poor intercooler, when i put the RB30DET, GT35 + 20psi boost through it when i aim for 450-500hp. if that made any sense, post ya thoughts :headspin: All

yay what sort of boost would we be looking at 26psi or more/less? is a walbro 550hp in-tank pump going to struggle? Therefore requiring a surge tank and maybe an 044...

there is legislation about the electrical lines vs the vaccum lines... i'll try and dig it up from where i read it.

in all honesty... would it be possible, for a Garrettt GT35R with .82 housing on an RB30DET, to make 500hp @ wheels? or would the 1.06 housing be the choice?

this motor will be in a pretty much drag only car. the objective is out right power, not street manners. Steve is there any more info you could give me at all? I think we found Tomei makes a replacement... waiting on a price from UAS... but i dont doubt that being Tomei they are going to be very $$$!

that stuff would be a piece of cake to install! Guilt-Troy: you forgot injectors Are you northside or southside? On the gold coast there is no disputing that Gavin Wood Autotech in The Man for skylines. He does mechanical work and tuning. There is also Matt Spry @ PITS. Tuning only i am told on the northside i go to GRP Automotive cuz they are close to home... thats for my tuning only

Now that seems more worth while. Then purchase a $400 'hybrid' intercooler, $600 to spend on piping and thats your $6000 spent in a much better way. My opinion only. Dunno about a dump pipe tho. I;m sure you guys could work something out

Stick ya head in the boot and get someone to crank the car to ign so you can really try and hear the pump. If you cant hear it priming when its on IGN then there must be a problem with the way its installed or wired up. My 550hp walbro is fairly quiet and you can hear it prime/building rail pressure for a few seconds before i crank it on. But i am thinking of putting a 044 inline with a surge tank incase teh walbro cant hack the new power/fuel requirements. I also dont think it is wise to run a constant 12v power supply to the fuel pump. You really want the pump to lose power when the IGN not on. Ie in the event of an accident the pump wont continue to pump fuel all over the place.

you can do better... The place you mentioned has a good name.. but charges alot of money for what they do.

Hi, As the title. I have a friend who's putting an RB26 head on an RB30 block. He wants to get rid of the 6 throttle body setup and replace it with a single 100mm item. We are wondering where he can obtain a spacer plate to replace the 6 throttle bodys? or would we have to get one machined up? he's aware of that the 6 throttel bodies can provide a larger cross-sectional area and allow better tuning, but i dont think he wants to stuff around with settting them up.

god damn they make rb30 now. I am pretty sure i had to get chev ones and get the big ends re-bushed etc etc to suit the rb30 crank.. either way they are eagle h beams for forged goodness

Hi S13drifter... thanks for confirming that the eagle rods are heavier than stock. I was told this a while ago and asked the question but no one knew for certain. i just hope that they will be bloody worth it in the long run! and i hope the extra weight doesnt affect things too much in terms of making power :Oops: SK i think thats where these rods are modified... The RB30 rods are actually Chev 6" small block rods ??

does your boost controller have the vauccum lines coming into the cabin where the switch is? or does it just have electrical lines to a solenoid mouinted in the engine bay? is it ILLEGAL to have a switchable boost controller with vaccum lines running into the cabin it is LEGAL to have a switchable boost controller with electrical lines running into the cabin.

ahhh gay... i chopped my rear plate.. oh well out with the white out to make it look legit

hey guys, i will be using the greddy plenum on my rb30 with rb25det head. I will be using the stock rb25det throttle body as thats what i have at the moment. I also have a GT35 so i'll be able to tell you what thats like once it is up and running

Hi Roy, This seems like a similar debate i have been having with myself. I want to have the power, but i want to be able to use it effectively instead of just being a stupid tyre frying machine. I think the people with RB25's making 300rwkw will experience a different power curve than that of the RB30. Hence why it would be a more 'scary' option. My reason is that they would have to rev the car more and boost would coming on hard and sharper.. (a more convex power curve as opposed to a more concave power cuver ??) i think what will make a car more 'futile/frustrating' to drive is when it lags lags lags then jumps 150rwkw in the space of 500-1000rpm . Would be a big handle with the sudden rush of power. I enjoyed that with my RB20 for a while. I still feel the RB30 will give a more gradual increase in power, sure it will light up the tyres if you mash the pedal to the floor, but it wouldnt be as sharp or as harsh as the RB25 doing it. i have no idea if that made sense... i just woke up

Thanks for the info 4 door sleeper

are these SS Autochrome wastegates ?

yes, but my choice in injectors will definately be large enough. I dont want to know about band aid fixes as i am well aware of what happens. I have the support systems all adequete, i just want to know about these fuel regs. also just cause you have 700cc injectors... it'd be good to know at what PSI they support 700cc. Because at stock rail pressure (38psi) they might only be 400cc injectors. so back on topic: malpassi seems to fluctuate in rail pressure sard is fkn expensive, yet quality nismo.... is nismo quality :S

yeah i've got a bigger fuel pump, and injectors will be >660cc i have decided. I want to make sure i am going to be completed protected on the fuel side of things. Hence asking all the questions. Alot of money is going into My RB30DET and the GT35R will be wound up in boost pressure.. so i want make sure i'll have adequete fueling.

errm i dunno what i meant when i put controlling boost i think i must have meant how do they go about conrtolling fuel whilst under boost.

thats my other query. The nismo's look like the stock fuel reg, but with a screw on top (the one i owned did anyway) How do they go at controlling boost? are they rising rate etc? Their small design makes me abit wary of them...

lol nice. well thats the sort of info i want. I do know that the malpassi's work as i've used one on a previous car with no drama's, but i just want to justify the $300 odd for a sard or nismo item. Cheers krawler

ok thats a technical response slapper... but WHY?? is it because its not a jap brand... is it because it costs 1/3 the price of the Sard?