Skyrine-Dave

add say $1000 for labour and $1000 for new gaskets, bearings, machining it shouldnt cost that much, but at least if you over budget you will end up surprised when you do pay for it all. If possible do work yourself like pulling the engine out. Its really not that hard. The money left over from the rebuild can go towards more go fast parts, ie cams, cam gears, decent tyres and suspension setup.

bahahaha i would never visit that local workshop ever again. for $8k i think you could easily get: - forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?) $1100 - GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump $450 - Power FC $1500 - Injectors and fuel pressure regulator $900 for that $8k i am pretty confident you could build an RB25/30 if you really wanted to go down that path!

got any mechanical LSD's to suit "long nose" R200 ? (ie HR31 imports)

its all good i got my issues sorted How does it feel?!? whats the driveability like? You are using a GT35 arent you??

daily driven reliable ability to wind up the wick and go racing, yet still drive it sedately everyday. and hopefully it wont go bang after spending all this money on it

thanks for that info Anymore would be good too I'll make it a bit clearer for others.., i was wanting to know what needs to be done in terms of strength to make the 500hp.

ok this may sounds like a real open ended question... but whats it going to take to make 500hp@wheels? would it be neccessary to have forged rods? if forged rods are used should a 7500rpm limit be kept? or will harmonics still come into play and stuff things up? i just would like some info if i should pay an extra $500 for forged rods. I would like to get the most potential and reliability out of my motor too.

Chasing an rb25 slave cylinder Thanks Dave

is the 'specific port' to do with the way the EBC holds the gate open? cuz EBC use electrical pulses on the solenoid to keep it open, and if u were running and external gate this would be heard as a weird flapping noise or somehting? cant really explain what i am trying to remember

Hi. I am after a Trust or Greddy badge that sits in the little insert on the trust/greddy plenums to suit rb25. Need it to add more horsepower to my car :wassup: Thanks Dave :headspin:

Well ask yourself... how badly do you want to get this money? If you want it enough you shall prevail. But i am a considerate person, so maybe i am asking a bit much. Maybe not a duck. Perhaps you can make a suggestion do you have pictures of these larda's? very interested!

Mr Koffi, I am interested! But first i want to know that you are a real person. Can you please take a photo of yourself with a duck sitting on your head? 20million is alot of money and i'm sure you understand why some of us are a little hessitant to help you. But it would be great to help out a refugee fleeing a war torn country :wavey:

check the feedback section.. i bet you it involves a large sum of money (in the millions) and some scammer wants you to go claim owner ship of this large sum of money, BUT first you must give me $5000 just to show you are genuine

i had an rb26 rail with nismo reg and 550cc rx7 injectors for sale recently. Might have been of use to you. I sold the reg for $150, which i thought was a bargain. Still have 550cc inj tho I have also noticed that some Nismo prices seem to be very over-priced compared to more 'real world' prices. Seem to pay big $$ for brand names

what kind of cams would you guys recommend or be using if setting a rev limit of 7000rpm?

I work as a lackey at Big W... its funding Project Weapon. Have a Bachelor of Information Systems, I'm on the lookout for a Governtment based IT job tho...

ok i know to use another input shaft for alignment.,.. but can someone explain how it works? i just cant get my head around it at the moment :S

rb30et(stock) + rb25de will give a really low compression ratio rb30e(stock) + rb25de will give ~8.3:1 (better) the rb30et block would be handy as all the oil/water feeds are there, but a series 2 NA bottom end is exactly the same, just with bungs in it

haha yeah... I am going to get everything i can mod plated so i have less hassles! I suppose they are very lax about mods up here, i heard last nite from a well known car modder that he doesnt even count an ecu as being a mod. Just looks at it, as long as the car runs, its fine. Tho we have a rule against modifying the cars power output from within the car (so dual boost controllers with 'missile switch' boost adjustment is illegal)... I will need to look into this because as far as i know you can do the same with an AVC-R, yet still be legal :S double standard laws and picky cops *enough offtopic from me *

move to QLD.. i've been told(quoted) its going to cost me ~$150-170 to get my car mod plated with changing ecu, gearbox, turbo, engine, brakes... and i feel jipped cuz my mate paid $120 for his datto!

ahh didnt think about the fuel! silly me!! and 2rismo: yeh i'm not the best tyre expert, but you get what i mean about nittos having an advantage over regualr road tyres

haha top work BigDatto, from looking at my catch can.. that is essentially what they are/should be!! haha nice work

I think what Steve-SST is trying to say is that the times he did are done on regular street tyres that about 90% of skyline owners would use. NOT semi-slick soft compound nitto's. To me his times are more impressive because if by going by SydneyKids posts he said his nittos would attribute to 0.5second better pass over the 1/4. I think he is also trying to say that tyres you use for regular street driving wont have the same grip as the nittos. Now we all know that the nittos are classes and accepted as street legal tyres. Thats all well and good, but just think about the fast times that Steve and his cars are running without the assistance of semi-slick soft compound tyres. It impresses me. I think another GTR doing impressive times on 'normal' street tyres is the Brisbane Street Machines 32 GTR that ran with Federal road tyres. *cant remember its time off the top of my head, but it was damn quick

dump pipe and water/oil fittings?