DVS JEZ

Pink ftw

044 etc u can put a check valve on it at the outlet

Do u run wheel spacers or hub centric rings/spacers?

Did u gap the plugs down around .8mm? Do the simple things like fuel filter etc too

Im in? Thanks Deano for letting me know about this. I wonder how the bias will be without the rear kit for now.

try richening it and see how u go. i know its too rich but thats where they purr without popping, mine is at 13.2 and another GTR is at 13.5 before it pops.

how long have u spent on this beast? looking good. whats your plans for the car

my mate had his oil and water mixing, narrowed it down to the grub screw was leaking extremely slightly, had to pull it off and get it pressure tested, hope its not it but thats what his was. try richening up the idle tune, i did an r33 today and it started to pop constantly when idle was leaned out, didnt like idling any leaner than 12.0

sooo, there is no where to fuel up E85 on the way ? how many k's round trip?

i am an EX silvia owner, my near stock s13 sr20det with T28 from a s15 kicked and r33 RB25DET with power fc, cooler, exh etc. they are alot lighter than skylines, after fully building my s13 drift/drag/street car it ran 11.03 1/4mile with only 268kw.

try new spark plugs gapped to .8mm if they arent already

I had to cut a slit in the mounting tabs on the stock rail enough so i could bend them to lower the rail about 10mm. It was dodgy but it worked. Especially when im impatient and wanted to start my fresh motor. Im sure the prifec is installed right. Go out and get ur settings an let me know what they are at?

yep im running a profec b, i run 22psi nicely with 7psi actuators, try lowering the set gain and gain a little, trial and error, when lowering these it will probably lower the boost,

The profec b shouldnt drop off boost for no reason. What are ur settings? Does it spike then start to fall off. The 800s are a pain in the butt. U need to modify the stock rail to sit closer and then rewire the plugs. Afaik the 700s drop in. The cam gears are a tricky one. I suppose u can try and replace them without pulling the lower cover off. Try getting to the timing belt adjuster but. U have to lever and bend the lower cover a little. Put on TDC, Then use those strong paper clip holder things to hold the belt to the stock cam gears. Mark on the belt where the cam gear aligner is. Then one at a time pull the stock cam gears off the cams and swap witht the new ones. U will need some one to hold tension on the belt so it doesnt slip a tooth on the crank gear. I wouldnt recommend doing i this way but u can try and if it doesnt work or the belt slips etc then ur back to square one and u will have to pull the lower cover off to realign it all.

im running 22psi in mine with stock internals and N1 turbo's, in my opinion its safer to make more power with more boost but less timing than to run a lower boost and max it out with timing, like i said in my 1st post its alot about the condition of the tune, you can kill big end bearings with detonation not just oil starvation

Turn key on and rotate cas shaft by hand, should pulse the injectors and spark plugs, i have snapped a shaft before when i ran without a top timing cover,

Depends on the tune, what fuel are u going to be running? If u keep the oil and coolant temp down by using oil cooler etc it will help alot. U can run high boost on a stock moter as long as the peak pressures inside the combustion chamber are kept safe. If there is any detonation then the pressures will sky rocket way beyond a safe limit for the stock pistons, where as forgies u have a little but of a safety barrier. So keep the tune safe, use a good fuel, and keep the engine temp cool

Its not just to make more power and torque. Well not for me anyway. My internally stock rb26 see's the circuit a fair bit and i dont intend on blowing it up any time soon. I went to e85 cause its $1.08 per L and its 105 ish octane. So at the circuit with a safe ignition tune and 12-1 afr. Im using it for safety. I didnt make any more power on e85 but i also didnt push the timing barrier. U are right about egt's but it is expensive and difficult to put on the runners for most. Fair enough if u are tuning for every last kw. I think i might do what scotty nm35 has done a get a single sensor to mount

Waaay to much work and money. I researched it for a while trying to find the best way to do it cost efficiently using the dump pipe. Especially on a GTR with crappy access to the runners. Whats the main reason YOU would want egt of each runner? if the inj are flowing the same and the rail has sudficient/even flow and pressure would u still use it?

The reason it needs to be richer is when everything is cold when the fuel sprays out the inj it isnt atomised properly and sticks to the cold ports and valves etc so not much actually reaches the cylinder (too lean for combustion). Therefor a richer mix is needed so the correct amount needed is ready to burn. Once it starts and warms a little the mixtures can be leaned off back to target AFR

Nice setup. Do u run oil and coolant lines from the engine or does it run a seperate oil system?

Isnt a problem with race oils, they run less detergents which doesnt help with fuel dilution BUT because race engine oil is changed really frequently it will be ok? If u keep running ur normal oil and change every 4500 kms i believe an oil analysis will show its ok.

positive pressure below 3000rpm doesnt mean the turbo isnt laggy, its also how long it takes to ramp up to full boost from then, my car has bolt on N1's and they are really responsive compared to a mates N1 GTR with factory N1's and poncams, i have tuned both cars and mine will make full boost 1000rpm earlier, have tried cam gears in all different positions and other tricks but his N1's are Laggy. so... some N1's are laggier than others,

Glad u kept it short. I read the 1st paragraph. Check the lines arent back to front. Also check that its wired up in the right direction. Try swapping fuel lines 1st.

my 32 GTR on the street doesnt see over 74 in traffic and most the time at night it will sit at 62, this is with stock rad, nismo low temp thermostat, trust oil cooler, i reckon the oil cooler helps keep the temps down ALOT, on the circuit have not seen over 88degrees,