DVS JEZ

It has been on topic the whole time. I will ask it again tho, have u checked the ignition by using cylinder 1 with an ignition lead? It will take u 10 minutes to do and then u can be 100% certain u are correctly reading the timing. There should be no need to change any settings in the power fc to try and bandaid the issue

E85 tho. And its not that it wont make it. Just that it could be better with a better flowing manifold

Yes it will be very simple to wire in. Its simply 12V into the resistor and then theres 6 power wires to run, 1 to each injector

Hahaha wtf. Go visit the wasteland

U are incorrect thinking the timing loop will change. What i mean by this is setting the ecu into "timing mode" just locks the timing solid so it doesnt change while u are setting the base timing, by using consult etc u can read and match, eg: if the consult shows 5 degree's then set the base timing at 5 degree's. if 15 set at 15 etc. The issue with the timing loop is alot of timing lights can't accurately read/pickup the signal. The loop wire is just an extension of the wiring going to the cylinder 1 coil signal wire. So theoretically the loop wire should read exactly as if connected to a coil lead when run off cylinder 1 coil. An ignition lead is 100% accurate as the timing light is designed to read it and does so easily. You are correct that the ecu should be put into timing mode

Cracked porcelain near te electrode's??? If so... Oh no

Aslong as the 12volt to the injectors each have a resistor. I though u had the stock resistor pack?

Didu do a comp orleakdown test? Bearings i would day yes. Rings are alot more work as u need to pull head off, new headgasket and head skim etc

Alit of back yard mechanics bolt it on with just 2 bolts instead if 4, i modify the stock crossmember by welding on some angle plate then drill holes to suit. All 4 bolts can be used then

Make sure the injectors are low inpedance. I had a set yesterday from' five o' from ebay that are high impedance and i actually had to remove the resistor box. If u need to leave the resistor box in due to low inpedance than its as simple as changing the injector plugs to suit ur new injectors

Sounds easy eh... Still doesnt make the timing light read the loop correctly.

Very impressive

Im curious if mafia had boost creep as its his old turbo that is creeping. But the new owner had a different actuator and also ported manifold etc

Some 3076's have perfect boost control. But this is the 2nd one ive heard that creeps in 2weeks. Havent seen it with my own eyes tho. What actuator are u running? Have u tried applying regulated compressed air to the actuator to ensure the wastegate flap is opening 100% in its throw? Its possible the actuator is incorrect

I love the gremlins that hide in our cars

Are u running the standard blow off valve? A smoke test will find any vacuum leaks. Where are u located?

Exactly. Very hard and risky game we all play, same in any industry. Liability

Its thread like this that may help people in the future if it were to happen again. If there is a civil outcome it would be good to know the process on how a resolution occured.

Vacuum leak

How do u know it was actually running 13degree's timing. And at wat boost? Regardless of timing and afr if there is detonation damage it should have been heard by the dyno operator and the run stopped. Tuner will blame engine builder, engine builder will blame tuner

Do u think its possible that the boost was different during the 2 runs?

Pics?

Scary to think what they classify as worrying knock.

Lol

If u get the correct cluster it will plug straight in. Has ur car been converted from auto to manual? Or to a turbo?