Chris Rogers

nav cd I have here. ballast - ebay.

there ya go.

so you have a HNR32? ERD at yatala (www.erd.com.au.) speak to daniel kent.

give me a chassis number and I'll tell you if its at autech or not.

rear screen -OUT!! looks like its been out a couple of times as well. it actually was EASIER to get out that the front. I'll do the clean up of the channel tomorrow. bit late now to fire up a grinder and air compressor. (shop backs onto a residential area.)

REAR screen half out.. still going with that one. its a bit easier than the front for some reason.

ok I'm covered in dirt/rust/crap. windscreen channel is clean. found something interesting as well. seems if you do not clean and prep the channel properly you get rust. (no surprise..) so after peeling 3 layers of rubber sealant out on the passenger A pillar I find a nice layer of surface rust under all of it. starts at the top corner and runs the full length of the pillar. looking at it I figure of the 3 screens that this car has had one of them was done in a hurry. either way I'm going to hit that with a dose of acid and then rust converter then etch primer. that will stop it reforming I figure. I'll pop pics of the area up in a bit.

ok bit of progress (and a welcome phone call.) front glass is OUT! I'm cleaning the channel back to metal so I can strip/sand/rust treat it. phone call was from a mate of mine in osaka. he's got the chance to grab a 99 stagea (S1 non neo) RB25DET car before it goes to scrap. told him to try and gt it. if he's successful I'll have the RB25 driveline I need. its a bit out of sync but the engine will sit here and get turned weekly until I'm ready for it.

john, martin where to this thurs?

cruise - call me. AVIC = BIN.

no they will not need to change the locks. take a lock out of the door and tell them you need a key cut for it. yes its THAT simple. yellow pages is your friend for finding one. at least you drive a R33 and not a later car. if you did cutting the key would be the least of your worries.

send me the unit and I'll fix it. is it totally dead?

locksmith. they will need a lock.

I still reckon you are playing with fire though.

the one I had was a HR34 item. it had the tabs but no lip like you had. if you have your chassis number handy I'll look it up for you.

ok a few variants if you trip the ACC pedal code it will not have a pedal and the car will not drive. re insurance I would get potential buyers to look at their policy when it comes to safety related devices. so will say fine do as you wish some may say the item needs to be professionally fitted. users call at the end of the day but best to be safe than sorry. true but a car alarm is entirely different to playing with a part of the car that controls how fast (or hard) you slam into something. when you test the thing make sure you have a lot of run off and a scan tool handy. bear in mind youare playing with fire in a way if the thing heads south on you or the person who does the DIY on it. there is a reason most shops (myself included) have $10m insurance liability cover. on the idea of CAN - not needed. if you are attempting to write to the bus make sure you know what area you are writing to.

without cracking FAST open - 2 dr or 4 dr?

I left a lot of shots out as well. nothing special on the amp- 4 screws in the corners. bear in mind I do this for a living as well. the shelf is a direct copy of the original and the only thing I left out were the rear vents. if youare going to do this : copy the shelf first, mark all the holes in it and put a centre mark in the speaker holes. make a jig out of the 6x9 cutout that came with the speakers and use the centre mark that you made earlier to line the 6x9 up. from there copy the 6x9 gril/templatel onto a bit of 16mm MDF. glue/screw/carpet and fit it all into place.

and you have owned this car how long?

early M35 - no. PM35 yes/no depending on age. both are BUS driven.

there ya go. every badge that I can find for it.

you have the wrong part number. second there is a reason it has been done here and done once by me. it has been tested and it works. kudos to you for having a go but what happens when someone flags a light and it will not go out. I have done it a few times now and the scan tool I used on yours came in quite handy. third you are playing with a DBW system as you know. if somthing goes wrong with your idea who picks up the damage bill? IE insurance on the car, who ever is in it and god forbid whoever it clobbers in the process..

give me a bit and I'll hop in to FAST. I can then give you all the listings for the badges.

sunroof - condition of rubber seal around it? rear bar - is that the reo or the stock rear bumper cover with everything attached?

start here http://www.audioexpress.com.au/nissan/ that is the car I did a couple of years ago. shelf is 9mm mdf with 16mm rings. if you position it right then you will not need to cut anything.