SMOKEYV35

Just perfect, no repaint required. Leave as is. Plus, keep them in original and minty condition and they will only appreciate in value. PM me if you want to know where to get a set of unbeatable lock nuts.

Thanks - what specifically needs to be done to the battery? Car looks good on paper but I've got to sell a car before I buy another!

I'm aware of the transfer of ownership regs. I was more referring to any issues that you can foresee that would prevent a RWC - like venting catch cans, the camber worn tires, PowerFC (would need stock ECU reinstalled to pass?) Anyway - I tracked down the owner, so will drop him a line....

I took all the parts to a panel beater and asked him to make it look 'piano gloss black' - so it's 2pac straight black with gloss clear and lots of hardener to make it durable against normal wear and tear.

You can pretty much name your price for these......lol

Yeah alignment not too bad. Takes a bit if fine tuning and sometimes the projectors rotate a bit as I had to cut off the locating rings as they were in a weird spot. But I'll be opening the lights up for the third time soon to make some small changes - it's a learning curve that's for sure! I'd be stuffed without the rubbe butyl sealant from TRS.com - makes it a 5 minute job to open up the headlights and not a single leak.

Yeah - I agree - if it were a daily driver I would just get the job done by the pros. I had my car off the road for 6 weeks and it's a weekend car only so for me the power bleeder made sense, plus I'm a bit OCD about other people working on my cars - especially when I had just spent two weeks repainting and rebuilding the calipers and didn't want anyone reckless spilling corrosive brake fluid on the finish but me! But. You don't want to take chances when it comes to your braking system.

In just grabbed mine off eBay. The Ford specific one suits nissans, but I just got the universal one - it's a bit more fiddly but it means you can use it for any car. Loan it etc. Under $100 - don't bother with those 'one man bleeder' check valves from Repco etc - they're shit.

Generally a 2% tolerance level before you raise any eyebrows with ACMA.

I've seen an R34 MFD in an R31 before. Guy in Melbourne had one wired to his RB25 NEO - you may know the car, it was a coupe, very unique green colour on 5stud te37s. I think the nismo version was just the software was different?

I suspect this ABS tomfoolery will be your issue, OP. Might be a job for the professionals. I didn't use the power bleeder on the stagea (it actually sold a week later) but I used it on my V35 (which you'd think would have a more advanced ABS but maybe not) and it worked a treat. Firm pedal after only once around the car.

Yep - but with the car on, and stationary, repeated pumps of the pedal should stiffen it up. Do that, then hold the pedal firm - if it starts to sink towards to floor......you've got air in the system. This happened to me with my stagea when I bled the system completely dry painting my calipers. The ABS needs to be 'pressure bled' because the ABS manifold sits up so high and there is no bleed nipple on it. At least that's the diagnosis I got from Holfords. I hate bleeding brakes. Bought a Motive Power Bleeder and never looked back.

Thanks mate, all good points. I think the rego must be a typo. Does seem strange to finish it off and then not tune it - but all questions to ask if thats the direction it goes in. I figured it would have to be a member on here with the kind of work done.

Keep in mind your retrofit parts will cost around $300-$400 if you're using middle of the road gear.

Falken 452s - typical of a silica based tyre, great for the first 50% of their life, and then just get noisier to the point where they are unbearable. Plenty of reviews saying the exact same thing IIRC.

All silent......?

a 'pod' of R33's??

The difference is that all 34 GTRs had xenon headlights. The GT-t was also available with xenon, and those lights fit GTRs too. So much greater supply. As opposed to the R33, where xenons were only on the series 3 GTR. Demand > supply= high price

Hey guys, does anyone know if this car belongs to a forum member? http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1990/SSE-AD-2178630/?Cr=0 And while i'm at it - can anyone see any glaringly obvious RWC fail issues - aside from PFC and boost controller. Cheers

Bump. Just had wheel alignment.

I have had a play with the nx702 - it's definitely a nice bit of kit, but it would want to be for the money.

I picked up a pioneer avh locally, but only because it was on sale and the price (after 35% off) was only marginally more expensive than importing. I brought another in from the US - because it was a good 300 cheaper than the nearest price I could find locally. I'm all for supporting local competitive businesses - but the key word is competitive. OP - to answer your question all the functions will work fine, except if you're buying a unit with maps loaded on. The Pioneer units with AppRadio, you use maps that you download from Australian iTunes store, so you're sweet.

I just do things right the first time....

They're not cheap! Import monster is selling a set of S3's for $1700 cash only - brand new - that is one of the best prices I have seen for a while. Have seen as high as $2k used. A retro would be much much cheaper and probably give a better output if done right.

Is it auto? Should have a snow mode button too yeah?