XRATED

What injectors are you using? What base fuel pressure are you running? That's pretty awsome for a simple set up. Cheers J.

One of those td05's might be still a bit too small..... I've got the perfect turbo for your 20 though. I was going to put it on the stag, it's good, fresh and proven. PM me.

Geeeeeeze Toff...... ANOTHER ONE!!!!! Ha ha ha ah.

No as in don't take them a POS and expect sunshine and rainbows... They're perfectly capable of finding and sorting issues, but you'll just be better off sorting out as many niggling issues as you can before you turn up for a tune. There's nothing worse for a tuner than to keep running into niggling issues that could have been prevented, while on the dyno.

Nick at GT is a solid guy and pumps out fantastic tunes... just make sure you take him a well sorted out car to tune. I take all of my cars to see him, big boost/Nitrous/V8's.... He tunes a lot of Targa cars too. Brad from boost is a motorsport professional, he'd be my pick for a tuner if I was living up that way. Andrew from Pro Automotive is also a very good race mechanic and tuner, he used to tune my GTR. Great guy, but again don't turn up with a problem car. ... We're spoilt for choice in Tassie. Why fly somone over at a huge cost, just for them to rent Nick's, Andy's, Brad's dyno anyway????

If it's all the car gets used for, I still think about it. The hydro will give a much better feel, plus you'll eventually stretch your cable to the end of adjustment. Just have a look at most of the better cars that have been competeing for more than on season.... most of them will have hydro's. If you don't want it to be conspicuous then buy a second center console, cut the base out of it and mount the hydro base in there, then cut a slot in the front of it for the handle to move slide in, If you position it right, the handle will fall inside the coin pocket behind the gear stick. OR Mount your stereo/heater controll (what ever you have in there) sideways in the console, mount the hydro in under the dash with the handle comming through the gap. .... Just because Pete dose (yes I know Pete), doesn't mean everyone has to .

If your going to be drifting regularly... I'd go with a hydro for sure, it's a lot more consistent. Cheers Justin

Just buy a pair of rb20 afms.... they'll support 400rwkw, same size as z32's and you don't have to touch the wiring (they plug straight in). $300 delivered!

Hey Nick, there's any easy solution... just stay another day!

Def worth the drive! just give yourself a little more time or some options. Another thing to add is 98 is pretty scarce on the ground up that way. As Jack says, west coast is not heavily po po ulated. Cheers Justin

.... 25/30, carbies, tuned length extractors, s20 style cam covers....I'd love to do one- one day.

put some washers between the turbo and the bracket the actuator is on...

there should be some adjustment on the actuation rod that it's connected to it. adjust the rod so that flap is hard up against the seat. it'd be worth cleaning all the carbon off around the seat before adjustment. cheers justin

$700 bahahahahahahahaha......

wow!

Almost forgot, if you use crimp fittings, make sure they are crimped properly... a good test is a pull test will do. If you don't have access to a proper crimping device, just take it back to your auto elec once the cable is cut to length. J.

Also, I always put a cb (circut breaker 150A at min) or fuse in the power cable.... install it as close to the terminal as possible. That way if the power cable manages to earth itself it won't burn your car down. I normally run the power cable through split loom or conduit, then secure it with rubber lined P clamps. Obviusly keep the cable away from sharp edges, tight radius changes, heat sources, and any other chafe points. In the engine bay, make sure your positive connection has a cover on it... There are lots of great power distribution blocks etc that can be found in marine catalogs. There are some reasonably good kits in truck/4wd stores that include a box ( a must for a wet cell battery) terminal clamps, mounting plate/brackets, cb, cable etc. Make sure the earth cable is at least the same size as the power cable. If I don't run a full length earth cable, I usually run the earth cable from the battery to a solid/structural part of the chassis, then in the engine bay I'll usually earth everything to one point on the same structural/chassis part. eg on a 4wd I'll earth the batt to a chassis rail and earth the engine etc to the same chassis rail in the engine bay. Lastly, it might be worth getting an auto elec to look over it once your done. Just to be safe. Cheers Justin

Best place is to tap the center 2 tb's and t them together into the map sensor..... T'ing into any old vac/boost line will work, but isn't ideal.

VH45 tb.... factory nissan part/quality, cold idle adjustment (so you can loose all the stock idle air controll gear) and works with your stock cable. I wouldn't buy a cheap siht tb!!!!!!

Just buy an HKS T51r and be done with it..... Leave the poor little T88 alone. I doubt the thing is surging, unless it's on a 12lt V10.

I do hope they can review the rules to let more modern cars run and stay in the sub 140mph range without an overly intrusive cage... The current regs still only cater to the 'old' style, 2ton tin tops... the cars we're running now are so far superior in strength and engineering technology. Personally I can't see what would be so wrong with a rear half cage with removable door bars for a sub 140mph car built after 1986. ... anyway just my thoughts (I hope ANDRA come to a similar conclusion soon) Justin

As it's a common issue for those who drag race they're high powered skylines. Dose anyone have the latest minimum cage requirements for a sub 10sec car to conform to ANDRA specifications? Also, as this time bracket is being reached by more and more 'street' cars, it there a compromise to keep them street legal? Cheers Justin

Marvelous!

Whatever you do... don't buy a Precision turbo.

Trust T67 25g 10cm. Can't beat it with a stick........ for what you want.