XRATED

The only way I see it happening is with 2 totally seperate fuel systems and two sets of injectors. Or Don't drive so fast...

Weld up the unneeded stud holes, machine flat and re-tap new holes?

Thanks for sheding some light on the spline drive Andrew. I'm happy it's taking a while... means there is less chance of failure for my engine- I've been an advocate for a spline drive rb oil pump for years now and I'm glad an Aussie company is developing and testing one. Don't worry about Nismoid... he dosn't hate you... he just hates everything mr cranky pants. :woot: As a side note, maybe have a look at registering as a trader on SAU (similar to Risking). Obviously it's a great way to reach a large part of your target market for this pump.

They've been testing the revised spline drive pumps pretty hard.... can't wait till it's released.

Ahhh... internal wastegate. Why not? If the turbo's maxed out- you can't run more boost to make more power, so larger turbo will have to be purchased, fitted then re-tuned... resulting in a loss of low end for top end gain. If the injectors are maxed out then, larger replacments will have to be bought, installed and re tuned to be able to support more power. Why not leave the nice responsive turbo, injector, cams in place and have more power too? I recently put a nitrous system together for a very standard neo engine. The reason that nitrous was chosen over bigger turbo/injector etc combination was it's a daily driven car driven my multiple people. The car is more fuel efficient than standard thanks to a decent tune, retains all the smooth power delivery of a tweaked standard car, can be driven by anyone at anytime without fear of controll or reliability issues, There is NO issue with defects or police attention without the bottle plumbed in. For an extra 80rwkw (more to come shortly) there is no comprimises other than the ongoing cost of nitrous ($140 a fill). However to gain 80rwkw any other way, I would have to buy- injectors, turbo, intercooler, AFM etc and live with a laggier, fuel guzzler. Not to mention the power delivery is awsome. So my question is.... if your turbo and injectors are maxed out and you wan't more power- why not throw nitrous at it (done properly- none of this 'sniper/nytrex' BS)? Cheers Justin

If you just need to sneak in a few extra psi to get you accross the line, then just get a nismo fpr that bolts onto your stock rail.... simple and neat. If your trying to screw 50psi base pressure into it, then get injectors. Nismo, sard etc. If you just wan't a shiny new toy for your engine bay... buy a well known brand name and make shure it's genuine. Cheers Justin

If your paranoid about it, build a new fuel system that dosn't include a surge tank or lift pumps.....

So get a G size bottle Yeah... leanouts/nitrous backfires are pretty spectacular. Only ever seen them on carbied engines though... not saying it can't happen, but I've never heard of a backfire on a FI efi engine (engines that don't mix air and fuel inthe intake manifold 'plennum'). I think it's a great 'power adder'. There is no real trade off for the extra power when you'r not using it. For an extra 100hp of kick, you don't have to use a bigger turbo- more lag, you don't need bigger injectors- fuel economy/tune resolution, your not shifting the power curve up or down- if your using cams/cam gears, there's very minimal down time for install and it dosn't cost a bundle. Not to mention the dyno curve goes straight up at activation- ha ha ha! Cheers Justin

What size greddy rail do you have? You'll need the 11mm to make it easy. Cheers Justin

Oh and FYI- Nitrous is an inert (not activly flamable by itself) gas and won't lift your car 10ft off the ground...

As long as your exhuast is up to the extra flow, yes you will see great gains. The stock intake manifold makes it easier to get a more even distrobution from single point of injection. Your intake pipework etc wont affect the amount of extra power you can gain from nitrous. The trick is to get the nitrous consistant. To do this you will need a bottle pressure gauge and heater on a pressure switch. Is the engine still stock internally? If it is, I would suggest no more than 75ph fixed shot or 100hp progressive shot. If it's built, then think 100 fixed and 150 progressive, depending on boost pressure etc. Cheers Justin

Do it.... but do it properly. Nitrous is wonderful. check out the forum- http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/ Cheers Justin

Ah... beat me to it. As above. Constant recirc of fuel, pump speed, cavitation and fuel volume has had more of an impact on fuel temp than pressure in my experience (not just talking about hi-po applications). Have a look at closed fuel coolers (non tube/fin types), pump speed/pwm controllers, surge tank heatsink and return line size too. Cheers Justin

Run a frp on the overflow from the surge tank and maintain say 10psi in the surge tank. Then just run a pressure switch on the pressure side. Just make shure you have a decent lift pump... Cheers Justin

I'll have the greddy cooling pannel (as long as it's for r32gtr) Pillow ball strut tops Nismo clear indicators (asgain as long as they suit r32gtr and good condition) Cheers Justin PM me...

I wouldn't helicoil anything on a chainsaw... especially someone else's chainsaw... especially some one elses chainsaw with out telling them... noooo....

23psi, 98 (this was way before e85 was even available.... 2005) trust dumps and a 3.5" exhaust, unported stock manifolds and trust intake pipework. The car ran 10.6@138mph on these turbo's. Great on the road, spool was really good for the power. Cheers Justin

Where did you buy the coil pack plugs? Cheers Justin

Obviously you don't need to push them that hard... :-)

Actually yes... and next year yes.

I have a pair of T517Z's for sale if you need some decent turbo's. I pushed 400rwkw on a stock 26 with them. Cheers Justin

3M carbon wrap! ha ha ah.

I have used a greddy thermostat sandwich plate a number of times now. They're cheap and are well built. Then just make up your own lines and fittings (use pushlock hose and fittings for best value for money). As for a cooler, I preffer mocal or pwr. Most kits will need the hoses 'adjusted' for length anyway. What ever way you go make shure you have a thermostat in there somewhere. Also an inline thermostat will require 2x the amount of hose fittings to be purchased... DONT USE A SECOND HAND CORE!!! Cheers Justin

I'm keen for a set. I have a flexable time frame and cash. pm me :-)

way to nice to be drifting! arrrr...