XRATED

20psi... on a bone stock r32gtr engine. they were the best balance of drag racing and twisty roads. Cheers Justin

Your local snapon dealer can get you one.... they're not really that expensive. Or get the right size 'crows foot' spanner attachment for you socket set ratchet and extension. Or heat it up and give it a little tap, then undo it with your fingers. Or buy a cheap ass tube socket of the right size, then chop a 1/3 off one side. Or buy two cheap ass sockets, cut the back off one and weld it to the front of the the whole one. Or .... im over it Justin.

Will consider trade for new rb26 tomei oil pump. Also consider trade for new rb26 cams 270/272 10mm+ lift range in tomei, greddy, hks or jun or other head/valve train gear etc. Cheers Justin

What brand is it? moroso? pm me.

Not really no.. It will hold a target afr at all load points, not just cruise like a stock ecu... even then the stock only see's a very slim window of afr. As air temp, intake temp, engine temp and load varies, so dose afr... it's difficult to simulate all these conditions on a dyno. The other thing is that most ecu's can't compensate between load cells, they switch from one to the next, where target arf doesn't really care what load cell your in. means your car is as crisp and as fun as possible, while still being very safe. it's one of the reasons I went with haltech.

That's BS.... Save yourself a HEAP of money and build the 30. Honestly you'll need the extra grunt in that boat. You have to buy a billet crank to go rb28 anyway????? If your going that far buy the rb32 kit form Nitto. Just keep it simple.... so when it goes bang, you won't feel so bad. Leave the head alone, throw a set of rods and pistons at a 30 block, get a decent oil pump and sump.

Oilve drab...

B U M P ity...

Is that right before you spun out petie? Ha ha!!!

Some people just can't grasp the realities of real life.....

What chassis? I'd use a standard loom with a z32 ecu and nistune. Cheers Justin

I got mine from JEGS from memory. If you can wire up an aftermarket headunit, you can wire this in. Just remember the vct solinoid is a negative switch. You can buy the plug for the vct solinoid from any automotive electrical supplier or fuel injection place. Cheers Justin

Personally I loved my 4.3 gears.... The last set up in my little 32 before I sold it was the most fun rwd engine/turbo/gear ratio combo I had ever driven! 25/30, Trust T67 on a trust manifold, 25 box and 4.3 2 way rear end. It made 350ish rwkw, but very predictable, very chuckable and fast in pretty much any gear at any speed... I never got caught 'off tap' so to speak. Cheers Justin

Don't bother with earls fittings and 'performance hose'.... the lines arn't under that much pressure. PWR make some great trans coolers in most usable sizes. They're available from repco etc - the whole lot should come in under $120 including more hose if needed. The PWR kit comes with hose clamps and mounting fittings etc. Make sure you buy trans hose if you need to buy extra. I'd sugest plumbing it in after the/any factory coolers (not sure on your m35, you may have a small air to air cooler or a warmer/cooler as part of the radiator) and using a cooler core that has slightly larger inlet/outlet fittings than the stock cooler (just reduces any pressure loss across the core). I'd also change the trans fluid too... This is what I did with my C34, it works a treat with my modified auto trans. Cheers Justin

Sheet metal dash = helmet.

It will be beneficial to activate the vct too... I used an msd rpm window switch to activate the vct solenoid, only a couple hundred bucks all up. get the car towed to the dyno with a fresh set of plugs, fresh oil change- filter etc. It's not going to run untill it's tuned for the larger injectors and larger afm. Another thing to look at before you hit the dyno is the power feed to the coil pack loom. I'd run a larger positive wire to the loom through a 30/40 amp relay. Clean your coil pack boots, run a larger earth cable from the earth point at the ign pack/head to the chassis and run a .8 gap (I've always used bpr7es ngk plugs). This will give your ign system the best chance of holding high boost/combustion pressures. Cheers Justin

As long as everything has been installed correctly, the tune will fix your rich problems.... The nistune is every bit as good as a power fc. Cheers Justin.

Your mechanic sounds like a bit of a numpty.... I ran my old 25/30 using the standard rb20 loom, sensors and ecu with a nistune. Ran up around 330rwkw fairly easily with the t67. Just make sure you have the install all sorted out, then take it for a tune. The car wont really run unless it's been calibrated for bigger injectors, bigger afm etc. Cheers J.

Mother of god. No!

Haltech are no more unreliable than any other aftermarket ecu. Most of the time it's the 'human' interface that causes the issues.... Hell Haltech are standard equipment in some low volume manufacture new cars! By the time you buy a loom, retrofitt it to the gts-t, buy a stock ecu, afm's, sensors and nistune. An aftermarket ecu would be a better option. Yes 33's have the same oiling issues as 32's. Oil in the rocker covers is a separate issue to oil surge that baffles can help avoid. Because you will have the sump off all ready, have your fabricator but a -10 fitting (then run a -10 hose into your catch can) on the intake side of the sump, above the oil level- this will help reduce the pressure build up in the sump that adds to the oil staying in the rocker covers. Also make sure the origional baffles/gauze are still installed in the rocker covers and vent the breathers into a well ventilated catch can. This as well as a sump baffle should stop most of your oiling issues. As I said before, do as much as you can while the engine is out and apart.... It's ALOT harder to do in the car. Cheers Justin

Supra injectors?

More pic's, more pic's...

Mate, keep it simple. Make sure the engine is in good condition, replace all the consumables/service parts and do any work while the engine is out. I wouldn't go replacing the oil pump, just the externals. I would pop a tomei baffle in the sum once you have modified it (removed front diff). Have a look at haltech for ecu. Normally I'd say use the stock ecu with a nistune, but if you don't have the stock ecu or loom then starting from scratch would cost the same, install will be easier and you can loose the afm's and standard ign module. Cheers Justin

I'd go a deatschwerks fuel pump over a walbro... any day. Don't use efi hose for e85- you need something teflon lined/rated for alcohol. For the extra money, I still choose ID injectors over the standard bosch items. J.

I want to see some billet goodness!!!!!!!! and a back to back run ... I have a vested interest now.