XRATED

Anywhere that do boat screens... There's a plastic's joint in moonah, back from the car wash on the highway. can't think of the name right now. Justin.

Line length has little effect on flow or pressure (assuming correct line size, routing, fittings and installation)... without ducting, I doubt placed infront of the rad will get better air flow, as compared to a ducted side mounted install. The downside is... Putting a huge hot thing directly infront of your radiator! it takes up direct frontal area, heats up any air that dose get through it and the rad itself actually slows the air going through the oil cooler. I wouldn't go mounting your core with the fittings at the bottom.... Oil coolers should be mounted on they're side with the inlet at the top.. or with both fittings facing up at a minimum. True and true... People do forget an increase in coolant temp costs you hp... even just a few deg makes a difference. What ever floats your boat.... Dosn't mean there isn't a better way? Cheers J

I wouldn't be putting it in front of the rad... The trust kit comes with a deflector pannel for mounting on the passenger side. I'll be making up propper ducting to mount mine one the passenger side. Also, don't forget to vent behind the core! Cheers Justin

Dose your idle controll valve have a hose going into the cooler pipe work pre-throttle body?

... throw me some offers people.

b u m p

There were plenty of older vipers around when i was living in florida... anywhere from 25k and up. They are FFFFF UUUU NNNNN !!!! to drive! fairly easy to get parts for too. ... You HAVE to hit up MOROSO motorsport park if your down south. Hanging out of your turbo comparo.. I'll be ordering my billet goodness as soon as you post up. Cheers Justin

My vote is for a propper water meth injection set up or a water to air heat exchanger.

Get at least a 14psi spring.

Go see Martin at Tas mobile Mech with a box. He usually has a few hanging around. Then ask him for Azz's number, for the best result welding onto the manifold use Azz (Azz customs) he's done plenty of them and it's a little tricky welding onto cast iorn like that. Azz has done a similar one for me before. Cheers Justin

Because it's not much more expensive to go 44 v's 38. Mostly because the angle to the gas flow your going to weld the wastegate pipe to isn't optimum (as compared to a propper manifold) so you need a little extra volume to compensate. Also a bigger gate can controll boost a little better than a smaller one. J.

ttt weeeee!

For what??? ... who needs food anyway.

v band is easier...

Thats the turbo Toffy is taliking about. To start off with by far the cheapest way to go is to use the standard manifold with this turbo, then weld on a steampipe bend and flange for an external waste gate... the wastegate can be mounted onto the manifold or the exhaust housing. If your going to use a 'kando' turbo, then I would suggest welding it onto the exhaust housing becaust the housings are cheap. You might need to put a spacer plate between the turbo and manifold, but thats no biggee.. The better method would be to buy a t3 flanged steam pipe exhaust manifold, but that will add $1200+ to the cost of the set up and only gain you a handfull more kw for the money. However, if you decide to upgrade later on- you will need a propper manifold, because the factory one will become a restriction around 280rwkw. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/226437-cast-iron-welding/page__p__4078947__hl__wastegate__fromsearch__1#entry4078947 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/381769-external-wastegate-on-rb20-std-manifold/page__hl__wastegate OR http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=327795 Cheers Justin

I have some 760cc injectors, reg and aftermarket rail that will be comming up for sale soon. PM me if your intrested. Cheers Justin

20's take a serious beating... td06+20 was one of my favorite setups. If you go with a td06 set up on the 20, then you can use the same manifolds, plumbing etc when/if you go to a 25- then upgrade the td06 to a t67 and everything will bolt up to it. anywhere + of 220rwkw with a 20 is where you start spending money... nistune, z32, fuel pump, injectors, coil packs, fmic, oil cooler, decent exhaust, and a turbo set up. All this gear will line up on a 25 if you upgrade too.. Don't bother changing the standard inlet manifold on a 20 either. Justin.

17x7 +20 Pete...

20+td06= awsome!

Had a few offers with swaps... No luck yet. Keep em comming. Cheers Justin

Nick's engines are probably cheaper than you might think... They put up with the punishment too.. especially when you see what Pete dose to his

Nick is excellent on the dyno... he pushes out some great tunes and is willing to work with you to get the result your looking for. He's a wealth of knowledge, so listen up. Also, don't take a half done car to the dyno, make shure everything is sorted out before you drop it off. Cheers Justin

bump...

Boom! Deal!!!

... Tassie IS a race track