XRATED

Viper are def not the best..... but they're not bad for the money. Have a look through the audio and alarm forum/threads here on SAU. Just make shure it's an aus standard alarm. J.

I'd like to buy the tb's linkages and bracket only. Cheers Justin

Don't go with a backyarder..... for peace of mind use auto addiction. Cheers Justin

You'll probably need to get a custom exh manifold made either way....

I'll take them pending picks! pm me your details. sms on its way

If the sale falls through I'll have them...!!! Bugger. Cheers Justin

x2

The best rwd rb combo I ever put together was a trust T67 10cm on a trust manifold attached to a 25 then a 25/30 in a r32gts-t with 4.3:1 gears and 25 box. The 3lt was a monster but ran out of legs/revs... a 26 would have been perfect! The t67 easily run up 330rwkw on the 25. It'd be my pick for your application and power target. Cheers Justin

oooo.... mee tooo.

Wow... what kind of numbers are you seeing? That's a fair lot of fuel your pumping. I'm a little woried now :-( PM if you don't want to throw it all out in this thread. I'll be pushing 2bar from two modified td06's with e85... hope I don't run out of injector! (i aslo have ID2000's) Greddy intake mani's have provisions for secondary injectors. Have a look at the old willall r32 gtr drag car. ... I have nitrous injectors instead :-) Cheers Justin

The willall drag 32 used to run ally side pipes... I'll be looking into it for shure.

Will take decent rb25 exhaust manifold as trade, especially a td06 manifold. Cheeers Justin

TTT

There are plenty of mid size to very large single pumps available to support your fueling requirments. Saying that, I put a deatschwork pump in my daily driven stagea and I'm pretty impressed. I'd be staying away from bosch pumps with e85. Also, have a good look at your fpr. Make shure it has a large enough return 'hole' and fitting thread. My fuel system will be supporting 500+rwkw, up to 400hp of nitrous on e85- not a surgtank or multiple row of pumps to be seen. I wont be having any issues with surge either... I'm still trying to figure out why people are lining up 6 or 7 044's in the boot??? Cheers Justin

My Tein Superwagon coilovers are an allmost perfect ballance of support and comfort. I'll be getting them re-valved with some slightly softer springs once I put larger swaybars on. For a simple bolt on solution, I rate them highly. I've been in a couple of bilstein stags... I found them stiffer and a little crashier as compared to my superwagons. As a side note, the superwagons are quite different to gts-4/gtr teins. Cheers Justin

What ever you decide, don't buy an aeomotive pump... My personal preffrence is a large single pump... whack a surge tank in if you'r looking at alot of track work- or not if you dont. Keep it as simple as you can. Cheers Justin

yep diff breather... it's not supposed to be connected to anything. Just secure it above the top of the diff.

If nothing else, get a nistune type 4 board. There is ALOT of fuel to save and alot of midrange power and torque to be had with a simple tune. I have very basic mods and we picked alot of torque before 4500rpm. J.

I still firmly believe that you can only enjoy an rb20 after you have owned/driven and built more powerful cars. The 'thrashyness' factor is hard to re-create with a 25, 26 or 30... You just have to enjoy them for what they are and try not to turn them into somthing they can't really be. Stock or small turbo's.. under 240kw but dosn't drop off to hard in the top end. Collar, good oil pump and a decent tune. Then just enjoy it for what it is! Cheers Justin

Thats going to do nothing but lean out the rear 3 cyliners!!!!!!!!!

Sorry I didn't catch this earlier... Ive had the same issue with the same fix. Same size tyres, new, different brands. Had surge issues. Cheers Justin

Ha ha ha... I do keep all the 'really good gear' off the forums. At the end of the day XXXXX will custom make anything you need. Or just buy they're packing materials and custom make your own. I actually have a XXXXX 5" mid muffler with reducers to 4" I was going to use as a 'pre' resonator. I'm now going with twin 3.5" systems. If you want to branch off into twin 2.5".... I would go: Large diameter, short (10/12") 4" barrel muffler, 4" to 2x 2.5" collector, twin staggred 2.5" barrel mufflers then twin rear cans of your brand choise. J.

I'm a jdm fan to my detriment with some of the parts I buy... Incliding exhaust's for the most part. But for the money, I'd carefully consider custom Ti pipe work (Appropriate grade Ti mandrel bends can be purchased in the US) with slip jointed 'Burns Stainless' center resonator/s and a brand name rear can. The thin wall stainless pipe work 'Burns Stainless' stock are only a poofteenth heavier than the same size Ti Cheers Justin

If it works for you,,, great. High oil temps create high coolant temps.... other than killing engines of course. I doubt you ever created propper duct work if you had negative results.. My own r and d indicates a different conclusion... Swapping from infront of the rad to the wheel arch resulted in a 6 deg (average) drop in coolant temp and about the same in oil temps. The cooler was ducted in the wheel arch with a propper exhausting outlet. A duct in the wheel arch will recieve clean air (not warmed and partially blocked by the intercooler) and will let the air pass through the core then out again much cleaner than if there is another flow restriction (the radiator) behind it... The ducting has to be designed and built correctly. Ontop of that, without ducting the air is most likely to go around the cooler core than though it. This is all apart from the fact the cooler core still poses a flow restriction and a above ambient heat scource to the radiator! Cheers Justin

Aftermarket braided is not the best option, but the most convenient.. New metal hard lines are best. If you do go braided, make shure it's a teflon lined/higher temp hose, keep it away from the manifold, use heat sleeve and replace every couple of years. Oh and don't try and bend the hose too much. J.