XRATED

Yoouuuuuur Dreamin...

Go on... sell em to mee... you know your going to

4k your funny....

There are several import parts suppliers in florida and calafornia that stock them.

If your running unusually lean and it has a 'lump' to the idle coupled with odd cold idle... sound like a vacume leak to me. I'd pressure test the intake when the motor is cold. It would have to have pretty huge cams (duration AND lift) in it to get a real cam throbb from an RB. Do you know what size they are? Also as said above, your current ecu have know issues running RB's idle controll and have crappy cold start base maps. If you want to get the car running more like a standard car, maybe have a look at swapping the microtech for a Z32 300ZX turbo, manual ecu and get a nistune board (can be purchased from Marty at Mobile Mechanics Moonah) installed. The ecu would be around $100 and nistune board around $500. A nistune board will run the standard idle controll better, be able to adjust for cold start and also has a 'knock' map. I run a nistune board with a forged rb30, large trust turbo, 700cc inj and all the gear over 300rwkwk. 'Far from standard' is going to make the whole deal a little harder. As a side note, when the car is cold there will be a bit of a knock/rattle as the forged pistons need some time to heat up and expand in the bores... depending on the build clearances it may blow a little smoke too. Good luck Justin

I'll personally vouch for Nick at GT Garage for tuning, as in actual tuning/ecu programing. Kutzie at Pro Automotive has a really good workshop and is a good tuner. I also have had most my mechanical work done(when I've been overseas) by Marty at Mobile mechanics, top guy and knows modified imports very well. As for your issues: Buying anything modified, especially when you arn't familier with the particular style of car is a risky buisness. Not to mention you did buy it with unknown problems. Common skyline ignition faults/issues are well documented, do some research on this site to find the details. You'll just keep fouling plugs untill you fix it properly. As for your timing issues.... if the cam gears (are they genuine hks) were as loose as you say and the belt was super loose, you may have knocked the valve or 12 against the pistons. If so, you'll have bent the valves and damaged the pistons... thus you'll need a new engine. A new timing belt isn't going to fix it. What kind of ecu is installed in the car? Is it programable? If it's stock, you can't make changes to the cold start program anyway... How modified is the car? Unless it has some crazy cams of serious head work, the stock cold start map should be pretty good. If there's been no change of injectors, afm, turbo etc.. then the car shouldn't need a tune either. Personally it sounds like you need to get back to basics with the car, test and adjust everything factory first to get it starting, idling and running correctly before you take it to a workshop for a tune.. In most cases, the workshop won't tune your car untill everything functions properly anyway. Cheers Justin PS If I lived up north, I'd make the trip to see Brad Sherriff to get things sorted out.

Pretty blue.... with some very nice wheels that are about to be MINE!!!

rb25 shot peened what?? rods? $200 ish I wouldnt bother... I'd use non peened rb26 rods over peend 25 rods anyday. But by the time you have them checked, put arp bolts in, resize the little end etc you might as well buy some cheap forged rods (spool etc).

I saw a big homo in a purple urabus and gave a thumbs up.... that he obviously didn't see.

Stay away from the Precision turbo option... Keep it twin low mounts, with good pipe work and exhaust. 400rwkw cam be had around 24psi with a set of 10cm t517z trust turbo's with good response for the power. Cheers Justin

Yeah, tell me about it! Try running a mid 10 with only 80 more kw and 200kg more weight!!!! Ahh the 'parts car' I've never heard of that uni going... maybe have a look at your engine/box alignment??

It happens... I've never seen one go, or really heard of it- even on some much more powerfull awd liners. Oh well Single piece shaft?

Ahh... memories. It's supprising what times you end up with isn't it? Even the smallest amount of wheelspin or bogging on the line has a huge effect on overall et. Most people figure.. hmm a 300+ rwkw 1500kg car should be good for 12's out of the box right? Ha ha wrong. Looks like you had fun till it went boom anyway. Single piece tailshaft?? Mine was fairly cheap from memory. Justin.

Was it the stock 2pc? That sucks some pretty serious balls...

Go the surge cover...

I have mine post cooler- pre tb in the straightest part of the pipe. There realy needs to be 200mm from the element to the tb and a fairly straight inlet into the afm. I've been told by some very experienced guys to cut a hole in the existing pipe work, remove the electronics and sensor from the z32 housing and epoxy it in place. I'm running a t67 and around 300rwkw with no issues at all.... infact, less issues. I've had the boost around 2 bar so far.

I've been crook all 'f'nn week... so I'm not getting there either.. Bugger..

Depends how big of a shot and how often you'r on full throttle... I'd say a 75hp shot would last 15-25 laps at basky. Who'd you end up getting the baffles from??

Buuut... what if you sorted out some decent aero AND nitrous

yep... stock motor and low mounts. but 400rwkw is so like 2006 ha ha ha\ Honstly... 300rwkw is more than enough for anything in Tas.

Move the afm to post cooler.

Yes... yes you can

Bugger it... better get a tune in before now and then. I wonder how slow a stock turbo, auto stag is??

ricky bobby...

AAAAAArrrrhhh!!! I miss my old coupe... It was in the same colours. Sold it in '98 Looks tidy Kurt..