XRATED

bring the orklift gtr. oh and don't forget to bring my EM Pro

It's pink

yeeer I run em in hard... no point f'n about.

No tune yet

Hey Pete, if you can't sell the 'nipple fridge'by sep... I'm shure I can find a space for it in the shed once built..

... I wouldn't ever put one in my GTR but it came up cheap with forgies, so I pulled it down checked the clearances and screwed it back together. Besides, you cant bitch about somthing untill you try it. See how it goes....

Basic tidy up of the ports/casting marks, nothing crazy... leave the exhaust humps alone! re-fresh anything that needs it eg, valve seats/guides/seals etc.. Don't bother with oversize valves ffs! 260deg pon cams will be more than enough. Maybe some supertech guides, valve spings and retainers for peice of mind. 26 heads have solid lifters allready... 50mm turbosmart progate. Dosn't really matter, just dont buy a dodgy copy pos. Arp head bolts If you want it to last longer... keep the power range optimised around 350-380 rwkw anf the revs down around 7.5/8k J.

You actually going to turn up for this one Toff? I'll come down for a look... hmmm new 25/30 needs running in.....

As in- you'll damage your roller tool if you try too hard.

I was involved with standing mile racing in florida. All the higher speed cars were of an origional efficient design, to cut down the effort required to sustain speed... ie less hp. My last event it was a late model gt40 that broke the record for a few weeks. and it had 1800 odd bhp... If you throw enough money at any car you can get it to run over 300mph. It just takes more money and development to get a GTR to run top numbers, than it would for a more 'slipery' car e.g supra/gt40/viper/lambo etc. The gt40 was a $1000000 dollar car... throw a million bucks at a GTR and you'll get a similar result.

you 'think' it's rings??? that comp test is pretty bad.

yeah thought so. Most body works will hammer the lip over. Go see Marty, then if the paint cracks then take it to a bodyworks. I did the guards on my stagea not long ago, as long as you heat the paint slowly and to the right temp, then you have a better chance of it not cracking with newer paint. The paint on my 32 gts-t cracked, although Ben did them. You wont be able to push the guards correctly with a guard roller, you'll more than likely strip the threads on the roller. Try using a bottle jack and blocks to push the guard.

On the fron too?

Still needs a nistune and a 75hp shot gas!

What is this..... america??? You'r playing with modified engines... it happens. If you think your tuner did somthing wrong, don't take the next one to them.. Or was it the engine builder? Or the injector manufactuer Or the spark plug factory oooor maybee it was the sneaky fuel supplier hang on.. I have it- Mr spanky with a candle stick holder in the sitting room.

If your r32 has standard paint, with a roll and stretch it will crack... no matter what you do. You'll be doing well to get 18x10's not to scrub on stock guard (with a roll push) r32 without stretching tyres etc. Go see Marty at mobile mechanics, he has a guard roller- Cheers Justin

This box looks pretty cool in the flesh...

Like mine

don't bother..

You have to cut the rb25 plug off the loom, then solder the new one into the loom. You just need to get the wires soldered together in the correct oreintation. You should be able to find the colour match wiring diagram on here somewhere. Cheers Justin

Whats the part number for that moroso pump and bracket??? Cheers Justin

you handle Marlin's TOOL????

Just use an rb30 afm plug for the z32.

Ha ha... that's AWSOME!!!