XRATED

If you do enough reaserch, you'll find that most US based kits are pretty crappy... the solinoids are woefull. NX is brobably the best of a bad bunch. For a safe, efficient and reliable nitrous system- look past the 'brands'. Especially for an expensive car. Most people would not be able to set up a dry system correctly... most will get an initial lean out. As above... to do it properly, it's going to cost tripple your initial investment. Then once you have the whole lot up and running, you have to re-build most generic solinoids constantly to ensure eeerm 'reliability'. PS- Dynotunenitrous.com gear is often found to be a poorer product to holley NOS.. I wouldn't use it on my scooter! Some of the best info found about nitrous is found on: http://www.noswizard.com/ http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/

Oh no... Trust turbo's or nothing.. old school cool

Are the tyres any good??

Ahh F- it, it was dry??? I thought it would have been rained out, so I didn;t come up!!! Grrrrr! Looking good though Damo!

Pleeeeease for get it... just leave it well alone! I favor nitrous over most on this site... I probably have more experience with nitrous than most on this site too... Stay away from cheap dry nitrous kits...

buygger

The t67 on the 25 was perfect! The 3lt lump that's in it now... more torque, but just dosn't feel right! I'd really like to try a L2 on the current combo for a comparison.

I've bought 3 LC1's... 2 have died (not the sensor), I havn't been game to wire up the 3rd. Techedge..

Shurely it would be cheaper to buy a copy greddy manifold, chop the runners off, weld on a rb26 itb flange??? 1k is pretty exxy to get itb on your 25?

First mistake... Second mistake... Maybe you should take your vehicle to a professional????

Hey Rob, how did you like the twin t4's on the 25 and manual? Was it just useless or useable enough? Reason I ask, is I'm thinking about twin T67 8cm's instead of twin td06 L2's. It's a pretty big set up, but I'm loving single t67 in the shitter atm. What do people think? twin t67's or twin L2's???

shweeet!

do you still have the ac/heater controll unit plug on the dash loom? if so I'll take the loom. is the shell north or south? Cheers Justin

I'll be spectating, what time you planning? I'll pick up the em. justin

Suck it up princess!!

f-me, wetter than a $2 kiwi slapper.

exhaust restriction...

Norchy mafia strikes again.... lets round them up and send them to somalia, or or burnie.

That's the first thing I would have done. Why did you buy a mines ecu?

Just fit a 12psi aftermarket or rb20det actuator then play with the nistune and stock solinoid for more later (when you go hi-flow).

Most of the stuff you need you should be able to find at a campervan/trailer place or auto electrician joint will sell the parts. You'll need the biggest cable you can afford (up to 0 gauge) 4ga as a minimum. Don't use car audio cable, use something with thicker strands in the windings. 6-7m of + cable 2m of - cable (must be the same size cable or bigger) Insulated mountable terminal post Crimp on ring terminals (once the cable is cut to length, get somone to crinp them on the cable for you) Heatshrink (thick stuff with glue inside) Battery terminals Battery tray Battery tie down Battery box Make shure you sand back to bare metal any earth points on the chassis. Any terminals on the cables have to be crimped on correctly. Try and consolidate the + feeds onto the + post in the engine bay. Have fun Justin

where's the motorkhana Damo?

Dont ever- ever- ever- ever use thread tape on a jic/dash fittings. It will cause them to leak. You might be lucky, cut off the protusion and smooth it back flat with fine wet and dry. Do not remove too much, the fitting needs to be flat. If you have to, run a thin film of loctite on the mating surface.

Shweet, sounds like a plan stan.