Jump to content
SAU Community

XRATED

Members
  • Posts

    2,392
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by XRATED

  1. Stagea single din tape deck and stacker combo?
  2. WOW! Not cool man... Back to jap pumps I guess.
  3. Do you know what school? in tassie?
  4. No no... I had the thing swinging on opposite wheels... two wheels in the air! chassis is stiff!
  5. In kingston? Just clearing the plugs... I actually got stuck trying to reverse from the side up the drive way... Featherwight Timmy had to sit on the boot to get traction.
  6. Shweet... have you got any plans for the motor that's in it? Cause I have a gooood Idea for it
  7. It's not the boost that kills the turbo, it's the excess shaft speed. US fuel also contains more benzine and other products that make it more knock resistant for the same 'octane rating'. Your going to need a fair bit more power to run consistant mid 12's from a 13... Id spend some time taking weight out of the thing first. Then a ethanol tune. Or nitrous. Cheers Justin
  8. No worries mate. Sux, but at least your all ok and you had your 'off' on the track and not on a public road off a cliff or into a on comming mini van (damn mini vvans@@@) BTW I realised today, my gts-t was running .8bar not 1.5bar of boost, so it was a little down on power when I droped you back.. Cheers Justin
  9. Honestly I don't know... I'd say so. I'm about to put some redline auto trans fluid in the ol girl to get the shifts a little more solid. Ha ha, yeah the ramp got a little close on the way down the hill. Justin.
  10. I'd be verry tempted to just run another bottomend from a wrecker... Just buy a couple of bottomends. Take as much off the head as you can, thin head gasket etc. Then just use the head on cheap wrecker motors ... pop and slot. Or have a look at late model motorcycle pistons?? short skirt, good ring spacing, designed for high rpm and cheap etc? Actually, have a look at stock rb turbo pistons... depending on the pin height you might be able to cut the edge of the piston crown down to be 0 deck, while the center 'bump' will come up higher into the combustion chamber= more static CR.. etc I'd try and keep as much weight in the crank as you can though... rb20's suffers from lack of torque as it is.. I'm guessing on dirt you need some grunt to get you out of a hole. Good luck Justin
  11. 1 billionty zillion killerwasps...
  12. I also use a k&n filter in my airbox. Just don't use an oiled filter as it will mess up your air flow meter constantly.
  13. I've been saying it.. been saying it for years.... I just don't have the time, expertice of cash to develop it. I do hope that nitto or another aussie company get onto it and produce a quality, spline drive rb oil pump and drive soon. I've got an engine to build damn it!!!
  14. F-n aye! My stag has ign cut upshift... tis awsome. Just foot flat and press buttons. Big thanks to Toff for the lend of recovery truck and trailer to get a 'beached white whale' home.
  15. I dig my auto stag... I like it better than the manual ones I drove. Seat heaters are the best in winter
  16. I'm still seriously impressed with the level and consistancy of the work your putting into this car. The 'stock' radio looks the goods too. Cheers Justin
  17. It wont run without a re-tune, with the z32 wired in.
  18. hmmmm.... stock port 20 head? with 272's?? and a highflow...
  19. hmmmm.... stock port 20 head? with 272's?? and a highflow...
  20. hmmmm.... stock port 20 head? with 272's?? and a highflow...
  21. at least it's the right colour
  22. Ha ha ha, look like nice volk copies.
  23. It's all good mate, just having a laugh. The hard wire mod will feed a little more voltage to the pump for maximum flow potential. However you will loose the factory speed controll, thus you will be recirculating fuel constanlty... this heats the fuel up quicker. Your stuttering wont be related to available fuel supply, unless your pump is seriously over or under pressurising the fuel system. Just put a fuel pressure gauge on and go for a burn. It's more likely that the suction sock is blocked or not positioned correctly in the cradle, the electrical teminations on the pump are not correct or the nrv was replaced backwards etc... I would check all of these types of things before you go chopping apart your fuel pump loom. By the sounds of things, I'd pay a pro to look at it... if it's leaning out and stuttering, your allready damaging your engine. There can often be subtle things that will trip you up, this is where a professional will usually show they're worth- especially where important components are concerned. Cheers Justin
  24. If you have a greddy mani, a vh45 90mm tb bolts straight on. You can bolt the stock tps to it aswell. J.
×
×
  • Create New...