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XRATED

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Everything posted by XRATED

  1. 'A tune' is not a fixed thing... so it's hard to shop a price for 'a tune'. Nick at GT is good at what he dose and depending on how much time he spends doing what with your car will depend on what he charges you... it's not very common that a car will roll into his workshop with zero issues/problems etc and only needs 'a tune'. Just go have a chatt with him, do as much of the preperation work your self as you can and book it in. Cheers Justin
  2. sure... $650 and you get a carbon one free
  3. ...awsome sauce. Job 1. get rid of the horrid wheels pleeeease.
  4. bonnet still available.,
  5. i have a silver steel bonnet too.... it's junk, but will do for rego inspection. I'll throw it in free if you buy the carbon one
  6. I've seen/used/serviced ceramic bearing turbo/other applications in stationary and large marine engine applications... Also in refrigeration/air compressor compressors. Never seen a failure other than lubrication contaminant. Although, most of those applications were slower shaft speeds, less heat... but heavier loads. Ceramic bearings are also used gas turbine engines... increased efficiency (less rotational friction) and better heat handling (less thermal expansion and heat load). Cheers Justin
  7. Go a pair of Trust T517Z's!
  8. Want a scooter? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/411998-yamaha-scooter-for-sale/page__p__6660711__hl__scooter__fromsearch__1#entry6660711
  9. bump
  10. don't do it! just don't do it....
  11. Did you leave a rag in the intake pipework/intercooler??? Been there... GTRS's will suffle... deal with it. Cam timing? Block the bov's off just to be sure. Have you comp tested it?
  12. I was fortunate enought to have the oppurtunity to drive a pre-release tesla in the US, owned by a former employer. the 'speed controller' or governing conrolls were set more aggressivly than a production model. It would have to be the fastest point to point car I have ever seen or driven... The initial take up was fenominal. The power delivery was far to agressive for general consumption, but once you mastered the unique throttle application it was a blast. Silent burnouts were odd though. Electric cars are going to out perform anything we drive/modify currently... especially in stop/start style driving. That's assuming you can get the power down. Batteries, motors and controll set ups are still just way too expensive for the performance they deliver. plus they still weight alot and even with a decent battery pack a perfomance set up will only achieve 300km before a re-charge at best. The last time I looked at a performance retrofitt, just the basic's are around 35k for the propulsion and batteries. Goood luck with the leaf... I'm pretty keen to see how it comes together. Cheers Justin
  13. I had exactly the same idea... Electric is still just to expensive to get going fast.... power to $ is still a bit too high. ... my electric dream involves a retrofit. I can't wait to see how it comes along. Cheers justin
  14. You have it around the wrong way And wrong... You'r not going to get a well set up and reliable nitrous kit, installed and running under 1k. The cheapest way to go would be to buy a nitrous express wet kit. Buy a bottle warmer that is controlled with an inline pressure switch. Buy an msd rpm window switch. .... then take the whole lot to a workshop that knows what they're doing with imports and nitrous. that's not many workshops in Aus. Have it activate at wot over 4k rpm... don't install any buttons for activation, it's confusing when your doing 200km/h. For a single point of injection, limit the shot to 75hp... and 'aim' the stream towards the back runner from the start of the intake plenum. You'll have to use bigger than recommended fuel jets with e85... and don't tune it using afr meters only. Nitrous will give false oxygen mix readings and you will lean the whole lot off too much. ... then once you have it installed, tuned and into your second bottle. you still wont see streaming lights, the pop rivets won't drop your floor pan and flames won't shoot out of the tail pipe. Cheers Justin
  15. If this was my conversion, I wouldn't use a s2 r33 rb25det ecu... because you can't install a nistune board for future tuning. And yes, you will wan't to re-tune it. I would use an rb20det loom and ecu with a nistune board.... or if you are going off road, a full wire in ecu. By the time you buy a loom/ecu/z32 AFM etc and nistune... you spent a few hundred more for an aftermarket ecu and loom- and you don't have to run an afm (thus less prone to failure if you suck up water/mud/dust etc). Spend some money on a decent surge tank (for all the crazy angles you'll get) and have a look at water to air inter coolers. Sounds awesome, put some picks of the truck up. J.
  16. FS: 1x T style silver carbon bonnet. Fit's well, no cracks but needs a clean up underneath. $650 plus shipping (don't really want to ship it anywhere though) 1x TD06 L2 20g 8cm turbo. This is not a Kando or generic copy. It's a genuine core and housings. BRAND NEW CHRA $650 plus shipping. Pm me or get me on Cheers Justin
  17. FS: 1x T style silver carbon bonnet. Fit's well, no cracks but needs a clean up underneath. $650 plus shipping (don't really want to ship it anywhere though) 1x TD06 L2 20g 8cm turbo. This is not a Kando or generic copy. It's a genuine core and housings. BRAND NEW CHRA $650 plus shipping. Pm me or get me on Cheers Justin
  18. I'd be super keen to test one... ss1 or ss1pu external gate for a split pulse manifold. Cheers Justin
  19. Tom, that's not really true... There are a few for sale atm.. there are 2 being sold (by retailers) for around 1k but they are without cracks, with wastegates and other extra's. There is one forsale on sau for 700 but it is cracked and has a copy wastegate that I made an offer on. The last couple I sold were under 400 each with wastegates. Deals done, sold to me..
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