XRATED

I hope its a new one each time between engines....

how much power.... how much do you want to spend? stock with good oil, cooler, billet servos and shift kit.... mmmm 250rwkw reliabilish.... you might get a few runs at 400rwkw on radials? just buy in bulk.

Looks very promising.... Will you be able to do this with smaller turbo frames? TBH to give the best chance at mounting flexability, I'd look at a remote (cable) actuated option. At least that's what I would do if I fitted one to my car :-)

three words..... big oil cooler-

Trust T67 10cm...

Unfortunately egt will always be the limiting factor for this style thing... and it's one thing you can't control. So the only way you could sell them is without warranty on the hotside?? if it looks promising I'd buy one without warranty. Same or better response and 240/50rwkw.

stock auto will need WAY more work than a shift kit.

You wont get the weight transfer your looking for... Dial up zero camber at ride height and a slight toe in down back.

Any more on this?

Do you have the stock front susp? put that in aswell.

are you talking about a 2 step rev limit or launch control? Best to speak with Trent about it. If Trent has set up a clutch switch, I'd say he has set up launch control with some ign retard to build some boost on a lower rev limit... if that is the case, I'd be standing on it on the line, feed the clutch in and roll off the throttle if you find your blazing the tires to soon. It really depends of the suspension, power delivery, track, tires, pressures, car weight, clutch, air temp etc....

Like everything its a compromise... weighs a lot more. still get plenty of wheel spin if you leave too hard and you'll bog harder if you leave soft. allows traction with harder suspension though. M/T's will be more sensitive to tyre pressure. and you'll only really get the best out of them with plenty of weight transfer, with the right camber an toe settings under squat. not to mention a better diff arrangement.... it's all about how far you want to compromise the car away from street toward drag.

twin t517z's.... stock engine.

... and just for the record, yes I have run 10sec 1/4's at good mph in a full weight GTR. built it in my car port 2005.

... well set up nitrous injection

you can get reasonably well built glides with bell housing, flex plate and converter from the vl girls under 4k.... everyone underestimates how hard it is to get a powerful manual skyline off the line cleanly for good times at that power level. you could spend 2 or 3 drag days trying to get to where you could get in 2 or 3 runs with an auto and slicks. for a one shot wonder.... I recon i could get a stock 25 with a stock turbo (with a couple of big external waste gates) in a well set up 33 to run a 10 sec pass.

if your serious... and that's a big if. Your best chance at a good time without alot of seat time or skills is... You need a drag based auto.... think used c6 or 2 speed glide that has been built for drag with trans brake. Bellhousing Converter Shifter Drive shaft Weld diff Used slicks Line locker Stock suspension Strip EVERYTHING out you don't need for the race. Obviously then big turbo, fuel system etc. If you can buy right, a 10sec run for 10k is very doable...

'my grandma who's blind in one eye....' could change front pipes.

Ed's GTR was his life and soul for a looong time... Be nice to her Seriously though... you pretty much just bought the tomei engine catalog. That either smoked the rollers or someone can't set up N20 to save them self... N20 is amazing stuff... but it's like anything, it's all in the details. There might be a handful of people in Aus who really understand nitrous... and not many can relate that knowledge to small capacity fuel injected boosted applications. WTF.... why would you ask about a T51R in a -5/T517Z thread???

honestly didn't make as much difference as driving did (eg missed gears, traction etc). it's hard to tell, maybe 1 mph or so.

stock head... drop in 260deg cams. bone stock 15yo engine bolt on turbo's, dumps, cooler/pipe work, rb20 afm's, PFC, fuel system on 98. J.

There is still lagg.... but your launching well within the torque curve. There is no massive push from that sort of nitrous. It's more like driving on a cold day v's a hot day. Nitrous is one of the most over rated yet least understood power 'adder'.

Not really... the torque delivery, it's the way torque not the power multiplies and gives you that rush. Yeah, I was shooting a very fatt 50hp (read, probably 25hp gain) shot to get me off the line. As much as anything it provided a consistent intake temp thus more consistent times between day and night. Call it 2mph at best.

BCPR6ES or 7ES's I've only ever used 6/7's 180-400+ rwkw

-5's are like assholes or iPods..... everyone's got them. They're power delivery is a bit soft for me... they do produce boost sooner, but don't seem to produce 'push in the back' torque any sooner or as much. T517Z's put a smile on my face in '05.... -5's didn't. I love turbo cars for the rush of torque when your on the boil... I spent years after trying to chase my ass with the 'ultimate response/power' set up. But when I sat back, stripped it all back and reminded myself why I love my car/s..... So I started building something that would put a smile on MY face and who gives a siht what any body else thinks. ... what I ended up with is a 2.8, twin billet Trust td06, nitrous injected, dog boxed GTR that makes me crap my pants J.