XRATED

Is it for sale? I actually liked it in camo. :-)

...http://www.noswizard.com/ the last nitrous website you will ever need.

ohhh i see. I can only assume not for road use?

Bearings wear the the shape of the journal... if you machine or change the journal, then the wear surface on the bearing will have a high/low point etc. Not to mention the shells pick up impurities, they wear in pairs (so you have to make sure they stay in pairs)... at the end of the day, given the time and money you put into screwing an engine together...? As stated above, why risk it for the sake of $100? ... if your really going to re-use them, rub the oil surface down with 2000 grit wet and dry and some light mineral oil, prepsol them and run a straight edge across the face (carefully). I've re-used bearings in engines before, but they went back where they came from and I didn't change the surface they were working on. CHeers Justin

...not bad, nice delivery by the look of the print out.

Aren't D1r's like $150 a wheel????

... Pete, please don't use the bearings that have come with the rods. Oh and a tip using the dial bore gauge- don't trust the measurement as displayed. Just write the measurement down, then put the bore gauge into the same micrometer you use to measure the crank, replicate the measurement on the bore gauge and use the figure on the micrometer. Cheers Justin

would you separate the rear case off the 25 box?

Mother of god why???

... you need the right spring or snap mechanism. something that will hold tension untill 'triggered' then be able to operate smoothly. ooo I love a mechanical problem to solve!

the 6cm 16g's that the original kits were pretty basic... the cast manifolds are pretty cool though. TBH I've never seen a dyno sheet for the original kit.... it was developed early in the 90's. Pretty much before any other stock replacement options were available. ...I was going to use the manifolds with the td06's I'm using. Ended up with a custom manifold.

it will clear... I have an hks kit with dump pipes. I don't use them but when i dummy fit it all up, there was plenty of room.

... you know it's more than likely that you will have to change the dump pipe if you change turbo?

just trying to emphasis purchasing something that you'll get your money's worth out of. The biggest weak link for any rb drifting is going to be oil pump gears.... My suggestions for oil control would be to either buy a nitto oil pump or remax gears in an N1 housing. I wouldn't bother with the oil return in the back of the head, especially with a later rb25. Buy rb26 cam baffles and rocker covers. Go conservative with oil restrictors depending what pump you use. Any extra capacity and pick up baffling is good. An accusump isn't 'emergency' oiling, it's an oil pressure accumulator. It'll maintain pressure even if the pickup gets starved momentarily. I rate them for a drift car or anything changing direction quickly. Cheers J.

... spend the money on an accusump.

that's BS most of the time.... often people convince them self that they're better because they're cheaper. I'd say they are a stronger spark, but not by much and alot of fing around. stick with the splifires untill there is an issue. i've always had splitfires in all of my rb's... 250-400+ rwkw never had spark issues that were coil related. clean and insulate the boots, re-gap to .8mm, clean your contacts, run better earth and power to the loom.

4" is too loud if you already don't like the sound of a screamer.....

4" = no restriction. Saying that, plenty of people have made 500bhp on a proper 3" exhaust with open screamers. Personally I'd go with a 3.5" dump to tip, magnafolw muffler and a free flowing rear can of choice... Here's the thing though, make the waste-gate dump pipe larger and longer than you might think. Run it right down and merge it just before the cat in a nice long, shallow angle transition.

... if cash is tight, only spend on things that will make you go faster or handle better or increase safety. splitfires are more than up to the task, maybe look at the coilpack loom or power supply/earth to the loom.

I wouldn't recommend trying to assemble a small high speed turbo chra yourself.... You can't really enlarge the wastegate 'hole' and puck... it swings the wrong way and will foul. already looked at it.

DO NOT DIY!!!!! PM sent

Doo iiit....

... ha ha ha I just chucked one out.

...a;; sounds pretty good to meee :-) I was thinking more along the lines of a pneumatic actuator like you already use with a cable in place of the current rod and linkage. Cheers J.