XRATED

What size are they? Tyres?

I'm pretty keen to see how a SS1PU VNT is going to shape up.

x3

Fuel pump.... very important. 550cc injectors will be heaps. See if you can use a nistune board.... If you drive a series 1 stag then get a series 2 neo side mount intercooler (good for 220rwkw). There was also a side mount intercooler Trust made that was thicker again, but hard to find now. Start looking at trans supporting mods if it's auto. Trans cooler, shift kit etc...

ha hea hee ha ha ha ha ha ha..........

Gearboxes are made for breaking...

It's about time.... Just need some 1600/2000cc versions!

TBH depending how much power you want will determine what decision you go with. First off, don't go backwards.... just don't do it. If your looking in the stock turbo power range, DE+T... cheap and easy, stock DET ecu, injectors etc. If your looking low to mid 200's and not a lot of track work, DE+T... just add more comprehensive management and fuel system. Anything much past high 200's or a lot of track work start looking at an engine/trans swap. As suggested above, a s2 stagea NEO rb25det is the best value for money. Cheers Justin

I have a gtr gearbox going for the right price, pm me.

This is true... but for 2nd run at the drags with a poor set up it's not too bad. As for improvements... Better tires, 0 static rear camber, softer rear springs/shocks, re-angle the rear cradle, adjust ride height to straighten drive shafts, lighten the car more, VHT tire prep.... list goes on. How far do you compromise???

Cheers

.... 13.7 for a relatively stock ls1 in a reasonably heavy car is pretty good going. Your 33 is about the same weight as a commo with no interior or fat chicks. Most people have no idea how fast a flat 13 sec 1/4 really is. N20 time...

I'd like to see how others kit's have the intake pipe work set out. Pic away..

I'd have a look into a track day too ... ummm have to test my new radiator cap. box said was good for an extra 50kw's

If it's going into the GQ (assuming it's an rd28) an rb swap is quite easy in terms of bolting up. As the guys have said, early GQ's came out with carbied rb30's so the legalities of getting an rb engineered souldn't be too hard. As for power... I own a nissan stagea, it has an rb25det neo and weighs 1900kg with 2 passengers and a bit of fluff. So when we go camping or I'm hauling around a heap of stuff, the 'ol wagon is well over 2T. It has a standard turbo, but has been re-tuned (using a nistune board in the stock ecu) with a bigger inter cooler and exhaust. For what it is, it hauls ass! With the turbo torque and awd I regularly scare the pants off hsv's and annoying bmw's. If I really get stuck, I also have 75hp of nitrous to switch on... but anyway. I would find yourself a nice series 2 auto, stagea rb25det NEO front cut or engine package. Get a wiring diagram to help sort out what ecu wiring you keep and what body wiring from the stock ecu you can ditch. Get someone to install a nistune board into the ecu and run a manual r34 gtt map (if you're running a manual box behind it). Keep all the stock sensors, afm etc. Install a larger than factory intercooler, run a 3" exhaust at a minimum. Most importantly, get the whole lot running with the stock turbo, afm and injectors... it's alot easier to fault find problems when everything is stock. Once you have it all up and running properly get it on a dyno and have the nistune board tuned to suit. You'll end up with about 130-140rwkw on 12 psi (don't try running anymore boost, you'll kill the turbo). After that, 350hp.... Hypergear highflow/400-600cc injectors/Z32 AFM and a re-tune. Install a surge tank with a bosch 044 and a whatever intank pump as a lift pump. The odd angles you get into in a 4WD you will need it. Also, if you do crazy climbing or traversing, look at extending the sump or fitting an accusump. Cheers Justin

Yeah, I can understand that... an absolute obsession. I used to hang out with the marlin/dolphin/trophy sport fish guys in Mexico and around the Caribbean while I was working on Motor Yachts. Those guys are nuts about 2 things- shooting and big game fishing. It was amazing to see some of the tournaments... 40 or 50 x 40 foot+ sport fish boats heading out single file in the mornings, then they all head back in the same time. Some of the guys were crew, only there for reeling in duties??? if they win or place, the 'reeling' guy can get $50-60k just for an afternoons work on the rod (plus they all had really big right arms). It's funny you say that, I've been looking at EVO's lately to replace the race wagon stagea one day.... mmmm black EVO 9, gold GTC face 2's, carbon lip and the right amount of low. .... Don't sell the datsun, you know you love it.

I also measured up a GU and GQ chassis.... GQ ute looked like it would be the best candidate for a chassis swap. ...hmmm 38" tyres, 5" lift, 3" body lift, VH45 or 6.6 duramax.

Your biggest issues will be keeping the correct geometry if you change the relationship of factory pickup points/shock-spring length. The rebound geometry past horizontal gets squew wiff pretty quick. If you space the sub-frames the same amount as the shock spacers, it keeps everything relatively sock for geometry/bump-steer etc If effect a 'body' lift.

I actually had a think about this as an option for a touring wagon/beach buss/camping wagon. My stag is reasonably low. Honestly I don't have too many issues with driveways, speed humps or parking bollards (my front lip will clear a standard height concrete parking bollard by 2-3mm). We started taking it camping and day trips.... perfect for a blast up the east coast (Tassie) then cruise into a camping spot, most of the camping places are down dirt roads, on sand and washed out potholes. I'm surprised were I was able to take it..... the center diff lock and snow mode is great in rolled gravel or sand, just as long as you straddle the rutts . A couple of times I could actually go places the big 4WD guys couldn't go under fallen trees etc. We ended up buying the missus an xtrail, suits her gutter riding duties better ( my poor volk GTC's). Long story short: I was going to space up the sub-frames and between the shock and shock tower. Throw on some more off roadish taller tyres. Then use some aftermarket arms with slighlty longer stroke shocks/springs. J

Game fishing..... GAME FISHING??? WTF

Looking for L&R front lower control arms/hubs/spindals/brakes off an s13 or s14 going cheap? Don't need coil overs. Cheers Justin

how the f did this thread reach 2 pages???

Ba ha ha ha ha ha ha..... how the F did I miss this? Your going to scare some dinosaurs in that thing! Love it.

Kids these days.... I'm here to tell you, you will not gain 1000rpm of response from running a direct pipe. Especially not with a 3582r on an rb25. To OP... nice idea, been thought of and tested before. A well set up evap/chemical cooling solution can work better than an air to air exchanger. A well set up system is not an off the shelf wmi, not even close. It would be very expensive as compared to a traditional intercooler. Other than the potential for slightly better cooling, there is no real gain. No real gain in response, serious strain on ignition system and not as reliable. If you are hell bent on a shorter intake track, just run a barrel style water to air cooler set up. J.