XRATED

... honestly it's hardly worth the effort.

Got one... PM sent.

for the love of god don't change the head.... and don't try dropping the compression.

What did you do about iac? But first try the previous set of coils or borrow a good set of oem if you know they were good. I don't like yellow/red/green fkn purple copy rip off coil packs. They're prone to more problems than oem coils. My vote is for oem coils or splitfires if you need them. If s2 oem coils/yello jackets work, just make up an adapter plate to mount them.

There is no pos or neg side/pin on the vct solenoid.... its a solenoid/coil, there is no polarity. I wouldn't go buying spitfires just yet. Are you running the stock s2 loom and coil packs or have you plugged the original loom onto the neo coil packs? I would buy a set of s2 r33 coil packs (not fking yellow jackets)and sit them on the plugs using the original s2 r33 loom. Lastly, turn the boost down before you get it tuned... neo engines have more static compression. If you'r running 18psi on a non neo rb25 tune, you may very well be hammering your new engine to death... as well as being the source of your ign issues.

oooor... put a stock bov back on it? if you really need an upgrade, bolt on a gtr bov.

... yeah, put stock injectors back in it.

... aaahhh just missed it. Ba ha ha ha ha.

Sep 2011... wtf is wrong with you people???

If you go with a plug in haltech of similar, you can choose to use the map sensor or the stock afm. You would be able to set it up to run the afm for an inspection, then switch back to the map sensor.. I'd find out your requirments for inspection before you get too far ahead of yourself.

Plug in haltech :-)

oooooorrr take to someone who knows what they're doing.

I would suggest you remove the origional vac line from the bov's and replace the line with new vac hose. The vac/boost port for the bov's is under the pleunum next to the IAC motor. Failing that, just block the bov's off with blanking plates sanwiched between the bov and the mounting flange. You don't have to ru them... I don't on my 2.8. Honsetly, I don't think the BOV's are your issue... unless they're damaged or not connected correctly. Plus a constant recirc will not make the car run rich that air has allready been measured. I think you have a leak somwhere... possibly in your bov return pipe work.

23 july.... this week only.... daa.

I think you'll find -5's to be too big for a 2.8 in a stagea. It's the weight that's the killer. You wont move 400kg+ more as easily. My vote would be for r34 N1's if you wan't somthing usable, unless you'r just chasing numbers... and T51r it is. J.

Tell me thats not a zip tie of the fuel pump outlet 90deg fitting??? I'll cry if it is :-( aaaaaahhhhhh nnnoooooooo!!!! ha ha ha. Otherwise, nice pig ;-)

Chemiweld what excactily did you chemiweld?

What he said.... run RUN RUUUUNNNN!!!! If your planning to push more power then upgrading the fuel pump is a good start. Personally I like the Deachwerks drop in pumps. I have one in my neo stagea and it dropped straight in. Heaps of flow, very quiet and has proven to be very reliable. Plus DW do alot of they're own R&D. My neo responded very well to basic exhaust mods and a retune (nistune). Much much more midrange, better fuel economy and a bit more power up top. But my first mod was the fuel pump... other than FBO or oil supply, insufficient fuel supply is the next biggest engine killer. Cheers J

Isn't JEM a sponser or contributor to SAU?

wow... talk about over complicating everything. 1. If you need larger/more reliable electrical connections, use commonly available bulkhead electrical fittings either through the tank or pump bracket lid. 2. use a pwm fuel pump controller 3. use any e85 compatable pump you like Personally I like sintered bronze, self adjusting 30A methanol pumps :-)

I've had 3x LC-1's in 3 differnet cars... all died. Haltech is really good.. within .5% of the dyno meter so far.

Not the engine manuafuturer, the plug manufacturer. Sould have been more clear. NGK copper plugs are reccomended service life of 10 to 20k miles... Platnium... sure if it's a factory engine. At the end of the day, most people here don't have factory tuned engines (engines that are not modified). As the hp increases so does the requirment to service the engine more frequently. Including spark plugs. I will agree the the factory cross over pipe is a PITA but I try and keep the factory intake manifold on my rb's as long as I can.

Well a fresh set of plugs are worth 12-18kw on the dyno to me... So I change them after every drag day/track day. 6 years is longer than even the factory recomendations.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/ $350 is the best and most cost effective way of doing it. Honestly $350 is nothing in comparision to what your likely to spend on your skyline. Just needs a tacho input and can be wired with an overide switch (think dash swith, boost reffrence switch etc). If the controller is installed and adjusted properly, it isn't going to effect fuel pressure or mixtures.. After the initial set up there is not more adjustment needed. Why is this so hard to understand??

haltech