XRATED

The two better tuners locally to me both use 'knock box'. What hardware are you guys going to? Phormula? CHeers Justin

pic's?

Satin black, carbon fibre slr bolt on flares, ront and rear lip and an epically fat set of workies with advan ad08 tyres.

secret squirel mods??? Nismo option 'ecu'... ??? I've been hearing wispers that an a/m controller is currently being tested for tesla... if sucessfull, they're looking at other production ev's. There may be some hardware changes depending how far into it they get though... the leaf's pack and motor are apparently seriously under-utilized, but no one really know's the limmits of the factory inverter or wiring infrastructure yet. $4 a week on fuel... awsome :-)

any leaf updates?

I'll take that race :-)

I've got one on each side... I'd have to hit something pretty hard to do them damage. I didn't want to put anything else in front of my radiator... (bigger inter cooler, condenser, fan etc.) Saying that, I mounted the oil cooler on my drift pig infront of the intercooler and rad. But the pig is low power only and the oil gets reasonably hot after a few runs.

...seriously, have a look into a nistune. half the money of a PFC.

Assuming that you have all the maintenance up to date(fluids, brakes, suspension etc), that the exhaust is at least 3 inches from the cat back and everything is in good condition... As stated above, either drill out or remove the stock boost restricter. Will net you 12-14psi. I would suggest you get a nistune board installed in you stock ecu. It will be cheaper and arguably better than a PFC. As a preventative measure, I would invest in a new fuel pump too. From there.... how fast do you want to spend/go?

it doesn't take that long to 'stroke'....

Ha ha ha h.... epic.

T67 25g 10cm is the perfect match for a 25/30.

wow...

ha ha ha ha... here we go. why 400?

I think people underestimate the time and effort it takes to wire in a standalone ecu. I would rate my electrical skills as above average and it took me a good 30-40hrs to run and terminate the ecu engine wiring (especially with motorsport bulkhead connectors etc). I'm using every channel at the moment and will be going to an expansion unit soon, however if you aren't trying to run lots of extra crazy stuff a plug in will save lots and lots of time and money (my loom, plugs and extra sensors probably added up to around 3k). Later on down the line, if you do need more in's and out's then the can bus expansion units are available. Additionally, Haltech are releasing a can buss O2 module that will solve the O2 issue. Cheers J.

unsubscribed..... just joking.

mmm... racepack

Any mechanical or electrical part/component/system or divice will have it's fair share of failure or issues, it's the way of the world... Every single brand of aftermarket ecu have a percentage of failure rate. ... if Haltech were such a bad product as you suggest, how are they still in buisness? Have you owned a haltech ecu? have you owned more than one? are you a professional tuner without ecu bias? is the 'tuner' your are reffering to unbiased? I have one, I love it, it works well for me.

Yeah, I'd still run your oil cooler to and from the factory oil filter location. Do you have a pre filter in the pump pickup? If not, I would look into one. J.

What drugs are you smoking???

Bonnet needs to go... $500 for SAU members. Will also look at stupid offset 17x9" wheels for swap. Cheers Justin

Rusty your shed is so freakin clean???

... lick it, if it tastes like chicken, then it's good to go!

Balancer bolt is regular thread. I normally use a bearing shell between 2 flywheel teeth and gearbox bolt. you might need to get some heat on it...

Nice work, I love it! .... just one thing... you might need to re-orientate the ewp. the way you have it, there will be an air pocket trapped on the back of the impeller, causing it to cavitation and create more air bubbles.