XRATED

To get a reasonably linear 300rwkw plus, a pair of Garrett (stock replacement turbo's) GT2860-7 ( http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/garrett-turbocharger-set-garrett-gt2860r7-r34-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-307.html ). OR HKS GT-SS http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/hks-turbocharger-upgrade-kit-hks-gtss-11004an002-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-1221.html Hard pipe kit (need both): http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/trust-greddy-intercooler-piping-kit-aluminium-trustgreddy-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-rb26dett-p-294.html http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/trust-greddy-intake-kit-trust-greddy-airinx-suction-kit-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rb26dett-p-919.html Dump pipe kit: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/tomei-turbocharger-dump-pipe-kit-tomei-expreme-421101-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-rb26dett-p-601.html I'd suggest the tomei dumps with a custom down pipes or a full greddy dump kit. Get some stock exhaust manifolds, have someone port them out (support upwards of 500rwkw). Similar dyno results can be achieved with a well chosen single turbo, however power delivery on the street is normally not as smooth as twins... it's the off boost to 'on power' transition where the real difference is in my option. Cheers Justin

ha ha ha awesome!

I'm guessing your a slightly older dude... so here's my suggestions. R34 N1 turbo's or the Garrett equivalent. to push decent average power, comes on early and will swing right out to 8k If you want a bit more and don't mind loosing a little more down low then T517z 8cm (my personal fav) or Garrett -5's. Greddy/HKS hard pipe it, ported stock manifolds, decent dump pipes etc... 330awkw that comes on early is a much faster car that a 400awkw lag monster on the street. Cheers Justin

BBS Wheels sold...

almost forgot... Enkei (don't know what model) 18x9.5 and 8.5. Need a little work, good 265 rear tires fronts are camber worn. $700

Need some cash for ongoing projects... open to offers on some gear. 16x7 +22 BBS Wheels with shagged tires and center caps.... $300 Some old school cool Advan twin trispokes... 18 x 8.5 and 18 x 9 some center trim. 50% tires..... $600 AVS VS5's 17 x 9 +20something, no tires and very minor scuffing. The tires on the rims in the pictures are 275/40/17 drag tires (not for sale). $700 Silver CF Bonnet R32... needs a clean up on the underside, perfect top condition... $500 HKS T300 Garrett turbo- $500 Shaft play is very minimal, seals look to be good, as part of an older rb25 hks kit. Good for 450-500hp. Also have a set of 17x9 +20 AVS model 17.2 .. but don't really want to let them go. will entertain reasonable offers. Cheers Justin

I want this for my stagea... working on the 3lt currently but what turbo did you go with? my goal is the curve to be climbing through 120 odd kw at 3k (torquie is locked up by then) with a fat load of torque.

... something is up. I went from a stock rb25 with bolt on's to a low comp 25/30 with the same everything including tune (just bumped the rail pressure) and it was a noticeable improvement. yeah, don't think any rb30's had oil squirters. J

In all seriousness, it's very difficult to compare even similar cars on the same dyno. There are so many factors.... and honestly, all you can hope for is that your car reaches it's intended potential at that time in that configuration. After chasing my ass more times that I can count trying to reach theoretical power figures, my attitude to dyno tuning now is 'It makes what it makes, just make it safe'. I've seen variations of 50-60rwkw on my own car in the same or very very similar configuration on the same dyno/operator due to weather and temperature only. ... flattening off like that may indicate that there is a restriction present other than the turbo. I'd be looking at a boost restriction across your cooler core/pipework, drop the exhaust for the dyno, new plugs and thinish oil, smaller wheels (if you have hecktic 22 inch chromies), clean AFM, clean air filter, check base timing and check cam timing and fresh full tank of fuel. If there is no significant drop in pressure accross the cooler core, significant pressure build up in your exhaust, significant vac in your intake or mechanical fault, then regardless of what the dyno says (and assuming the operator/tuner know what they're doing) then your car is getting towards the top end of it's potential for it's given configuration. ... now if you want bigger numbers. Get a bigger turbo on a bigger engine with a lighter drive train on smaller wheels on a cold ass day with a silly ramp rate and a little temp correction for good measure. Or... enough nitrous will fix just about anything. J.

...take alcohol

has anyone cheered the dyno up yet? maybe bake him a cake?

You'll need a unmolested ecu to install a Nistune on. Screamers are horrible.... no gain, only sore ears after the first 5 min of braaaaaaa... J.

Stags will RandR earlier due to the weight... 30+ rwk through the mid range gain with a proper tune on a s2 stag. I highly rate the shift kit and billet solenoid in my s2. J.

1. RandR 2. Hot air intake 3. hmmmm.. 4 speed auto 2T wagon+2.5lt engine= a little sluggish to start with. last issue you will have is a 2.5" pipe being a restriction at that power level.... must be droney as buggery. Cheers J. Cheers Justin

I'd suggest throwing it on a chassis dyno and log you afr's just for piece of mind. 1. you won't get an answer out of MINES in Japan. 2. If you need too (probably won't) to add a little fuel then an fpr might get you there. I don't think you will need to though. Vac line MUST BE CONNECTED!!!! Set at 47psi at idle with the line attached. 3. Honestly, if you need more fuel that a tweak of the fpr will give you then I would just turn the boost down. You might.... might be able to get away with an safc if small corrections are needed 4. Only bother with a bell mouth dump if you plan to upgrade to a bolt on turbo upgrade later. Or if you want the extra handful of kw's, then upgrade to a nistune board, Z32 AFM, GTR/ (whichever) injectors and go for broke. The mines ECU essentially just throw a heap of fuel, moderate timing at each cell. Also removes speed cut and ups the rev limit/air flow 'boost' cut.

If the dyno was having a bad day, of course it will be unhappy... or if someone had run over his cat, or just got his electricity bill in the mail or his mum was mad at him or.... hang on ah, whats 40 or 50kw a day between friends... So here is what you do.... go to another couple of dyno's and whoever gives you the biggest dyno sheet is the best dyno operator because they could make more power with your set up than every one else.

...eh, enough nitrous will fix anything. so why bother breaking stock rods with a turbo when a gas kit is way easier to install.

If your going na power, some guys in the states are looking at going with Honda rods and motorcycle short skirt pistons.... Shedding kilos of rotating mass. Might be worth looking at? ... On a serious note though, Jim wolf have done a lot of testing with vh cams. Are we likely to see some short velocity stacks under that cowl? Maybe a little gas? J.

.... f yeah, this is going to be a good one!

... updates?

Budget a couple of days around the north west.... a good guide to find great roads in Tassie- "the dumber the name the better the roads!" I'd budget a day to rock it down the west coastal roads to Hobart. Base out of Hobart for a few... climb the mountain and mountain roads, reaserch the Targa stages (all open and fee public roads). Then bang on down south, to Port Arther/Dunnally southport. (stop at the Dunally bakery... best apple pies and meat pies ever!). March 22 is drift practice at Baskerville and 28th is Tasmania 400 at Symonds Plains. 23 poatena mountain race! jump on the cams calender for all the dates. Cheers Justin

... hmm 10mm spacer time

Bring back NUTGROVE!!!

got an undamaged radiator?

Not a race car driver.... just a very racey blond I would consider her quiet a good driver, but isn't particularly familiar with race gearboxes, race clutches or race cars. J.