XRATED

A reasonable middle of the road brand is aeroflow. They have everything you need for a good price for the quality. Just don't buy the e85 comparable pushlock hose. Don't muck around with e85, buy Teflon lined hose or solid steel/alloy lines... everything else I've used just drys out and cracks... My advice would be to not use stainless braid as it will chaife through anything it touches, including steel. There are other outer casings that are just as strong but don't chaife... Good luck..

Before you just go out and buy the cheapest hose you can... 1. Do you really need braided hose? 2. What fuel are you using? 3. Does the hose you are planning to buy have good and well priced fittings compatibility. At the end of the day you'll end up spending thousands on hose and fittings.... Cheers J.

I chose to leave my input shaft stock size as a bit of a safety measure. If your shockloading the drive train hard enough to break an input shaft, then your putting alot of pressure onto everything down stream. Your also shockloading the tyres... I figured I would rather an input shaft go than start stripping gears in my ppg gearset, pulling bearings apart, twisting centre plates, body,mounts etc... I also choose to run stock input shafts in the rear for similar reasons. ...saying that, I'm not running 600rwkw yet, but I do use street drag tyres, unsprung multiplate clutch and nitrous. I guess what I'm trying to say is choose you 'weak link'..... and plenty of very fast GTR's have been racing for alot of years with stock size input shafts. If your looking for ultimate? then yeah go bigger, but if you go to that extent, I'd be looking at soild mounting almost everything, look at the rear geometry carefully, billet axles/half shafts (they still break) with larger Cv's.....so on and so forth. ..anyway, that's where I got with it. Cheers Justin

NITROUS! ... it fixes everything :-)

Turbo sold!

...epic!

For the love of all that is mercifull.... don't pull it apart! This is the only thing worth looking at in the NA section!!!!! .... just invest in a decent nitrous system if you need more power.

I guess I'd get one try at it In all seriousness, rig looks pretty well sorted out.... and you make drifting it look easy!

oh and most of my post's are short because I'm usually posting from work (when I'm supposet to be working :-))

It's all good James... I probably sound like most of the guys over there because I used to live and race there (Miami/Ft Lauderdale etc)... With the big open highways, a fantastic drag strip 11hr up I95 and events like standing mile that are run frequently, loosing a few hundred rpm in boost threshold or a hand full of hp under 4000rpm isn't as big of a deal as compared to tight twisting drivers roads in Aus. Your large frame single is quite large in comparison to twin low mounts like N1 or -5 garrets that most of us run, so take advantage of all that potential air flow and run the biggest cams you will feel comforatble with.... afterall it's drag racing I would class 272's as a mid to low range cam for a 26 depending on the lift. At the end of the day, I'd run what you have..... get it to the track and have some fun. I would highly recomend and suggest aftermarket valve springs and retainers that will work with the HKS cams, it's cheap insurance especially with the rpm range you'll need to be looking at for racing with that turbo. ... just watch your gearbox at that power level, if it's still stock then use a reasonably soft clutch. 3rd gear will thankyou for it. Cheers Justin

Ha ha ha... with a turbo the size of Bolivia... 10.5mm (or whatever they are) 272's are going to be too small, but better than stock. there is no way you will get the best out of that turbo with stock cams as opposed to anything with more lift and or duration....

... why can't I do that? damn it. looks like a whole bag of fun. Cheers J.

I've often thought about getting a good condition unopened 26 and slappin on all my 'big' bits and seing just how far it would go. Willall did it back in the day, but with a freshened up 'to stock specs' engine... so it doesn't really count. It'd be cool to run 9's/140mph+ on an un opened engine in a true street GTR. We'd allways be at a disadvantage to stipped out auto GTR's though. J.

If it's drag racing mostly, then get some bigger cams..... Who cares what the engine is doing at 1000-5000rpm, all you need to worry about is a phat power curve at higher rpm.

wow... that was a long time ago..... that was before 98 was even available at the pump in Tassie, little own E85! ha ha ha ... well hoping to run a little quicker next year with a new engine (and everything else). Cheers Justin

Price drop on most items.... HKS T300 turbo... $400 Advan's $500 Enkei's $600 VS5's... $650 Cheers Justin

Hey guys. Up for sale is a suprisingly good condition 'old skool' HKS turbo. Bearings seem to be good and has been run briefly (seals were also good). It's a HKS T300 and was purchased as part of an old cast manifold HKS turbo kit for RB25det. I'll be keeping the manifold, but the turbo is surplus to my requirments. Will post a buyers cost. $400 schmacaroos. Cheers Justin 0419789880

B U M P... Have colleced more wheels in the last couple of months, so I really need to move some on. Will take reasonable offers. Cheders J.

If your swapping a stock turbo for another stock turbo, then it wont be too bad.... just not ideal. Of your running anything other than a stock turbo, then yes, your tune will need to be adjusted. Cheers J.

Just thought I'd chime in too... I've been really impressed with the towing ability of my s2 auto lately. Boats, race cars etc... Centre diff lock has been really useful at the boat ramp and on grass/mud.... even with low profile tyres and coilovers (reasonably low) and a race car/trailer. We towed the drift car (rb25 s13) this weekend... with 8 wheels/tyres, 3 people, gear, spares, tools and 100lt of fuel 200km from Hobart to Simmonds Plains.... it was a very well built car trailer, but we sat on 110 most of the way no worries, maintained 90km/h + up hill, including overtaking uphill... Stock rad/fan/shroud, upgraded trans cooling, MV shift kit, cooler kit, 10psi, nistune, coilpacks and r34 brakes. No cooling issues, no trans issues, no braking issues and enough power/torque to not be annoying. .... the only thing that kind of sucks is the fuel consumption of BP98. But hey, what else will tow that much, that can fit that much stuff, handles that well and is as fun for under 20k? Cheers J.

pussy...

Most of the old HKS cast low mount mani's I've had or seen were all T4 flange, and have had the T3 bolt pattern drilled and tapped into the flange face... there is f-all difference in the actual 'hole' between T3 and T4... nothing that can't be sorted out with a die grinder anyway. So if you have a manifold with a T3 flange (is it cracked?), I can't see why you wouldn't be able to drill and tap a T4 flange bolt hols into it. OR... swap it for one with a T4 flange already? ... The other thing is that some turbo's just don't fitt on this manifold on and engine with the engine mounts on. I doubt the big ass comp housing on the BW turbo's will fit. Just out of interest, is it cracked through the divider? every manifold I have seen is or has been cracked.

Drugs???

Bonnet gone.. Trispokes look like they're spoken for too.

... btw the main reason I chose to link the products to Kudos is that they support SAU as well as being one of the only professional and customer focused parts suppliers for skyline parts in Aus. J.