XRATED

... spare engine and gearbokchouy, wheels etc to replace the back seat with? you must be able to find another lonely gtr turbo hanging around? then it really will be just like a mini gtr, except better! siamese 8cyl, 3lt, twin turbo, awd, 4ws mini monster! ...ah I digress but image the 4wd doughies!

... rb24 time??? 26 crank in an rb20 block, custom pistons.... stealthiest way to get more capacity for your 20. I'd be starting with an r32 rb25 na head, 26 crank, rods and tomei (from memory) make pistons to suit? I think you have to notch the top of the rod blah blah blah At least that way you retain the rb20 block and engine number, get some more capacity etc pop an hks 2530 turbo kit and ecu/fuel system of choice. Boom done!

...honest honey, I was just taking my plant sized turbo out for a walk when I slipped and it fell into the engine bay!

oh no... what's next... auto!?!?! or a little engine to power the big turbo to boost the medium sized motor? Ba ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!

which pistons??? round ones! ha ha. Basically, I chose to go with slightly higher static cr because I planned on running e85. If your planning to run pump fuel, then go 8.5:1

Nice work! ETS Pro seems to be an elegant solution to control the attessa hardware... just imagine trying to splice your way through the stock attessa wiring/sensors.

Looks great... A smile on your dial is worth the 200m of range you miss out on per charge! Any more power yet? And on that note, have you seen on a Dyno yet?

....considering an aftermarket oil pump will cost more than a good condition rb20, just keep it off the limiter as much as you can and don't worry too much about it. Odds are something else will fail before t he oil pump in a factory 20. Yeah, but they are coolant/oil heat exchangers.... not air/oil heat exchangers. As above, invest in a good oil cooler system... spend good money on the adapter block/thermostat and lines... if you need to save some money anywhere, buy a cheap core. They work almost as well, but when you trash an engine they need to be replaced (you can't clean them out like everything else) and they damage easily. I use greddy thermostat sandwich plate's, compact and work well. If your worried about oil control, have a good read of the oil control thread. ....I have a soft spot for rb20's J.

hmmm... 'what to say'... 1. It has one single throttle body not individual throttle bodies 'itb' 2. It's. Very Very shiney 3. It has it's place, but I suspect this manifold is the last thing you should be learning about your gtr. 4. It's very very shineeeeeeeey

Yes... the greddy intake manifold retains the stock itb's. If you have one stock Tb then you don't have an rb26 in your gtr... It's not an upgrade....

updates updates updates???

get some 15x8 -25 steelies and bolt on flares!

What rear lip is that?

Yeah still have my GTR... it's the kind of thing that will never get sold. J.

I just make sure every time I start my drift car that I warm it up to temp, warm enough to 'boil off' any water vapour in the oil or sitting in the engine. Short cold starts would be worst case for condensation build up.

H ah aha... with the welded on box to mount the wastegate off (on the standard manifold)?? is that the one? I'll venture to say that short of 12:1 CR and methanol, your not going to get rb25 turbo response from a 260rwkw turbo on an rb20. Here are your options: 1. An rb20 highflow from hypergear, will get you into the early 200's (call it 210-225rwkw) and will come on very similarly to your rb25 turbo, with a good spread of torque and still be light and revvy. 2. A td06 18g with an 8cm rear, will give nothing untill 4k but give you the old school turbo hit and a butt load of mid/top range torque and decent power. 3. Something in between that will not quite make the power you really want, but will be annoyingly laggy for the end result.... I love rb20's and to be honest the most fun I had with one was with a stock turbo.... An rb20 highflow that comes on nice and early that delivers 220rwkw will be a much quicker car on the road 90 percent of the time that a 260rwkw rb20.

... or a BIG hammer.

The car was raced as a true street car and on street legal tires, full exhaust etc (just like you would drive it every day). As far as I'm aware, there was never any class/record for 'low mount, GTR skylines'... it's really just an enthusiasts recognition. The car was the first GTR in Tassie to break into the 10's, at the time it took home quickest AWD, fastest import and a few other local awards that were done through TDRA. As far as I'm aware it's still one of the fastest 'original factory engine' eg unopened GTR passes made in Aus? I'm still surprised there is still interest in it as most people choose to use they're skylines for different racing disciplines. Cheers Justin

Looks nice and tidy. .... might need to Re-negotiate that budget though

... my little monkey gets the same look in his eye when he gets behind the wheel of my GTR .. 11/2yo and he's allready got the keys and fuel pump swithes orgainised!

This thread is hilarious.... must have taken the 'sales team' a couple of hours to sign up 6 different profiles.

Burn... Actually that's pretty funny.

Fairenough... Spacer between upper and lower halves?

you drove the car for 'years' with it running like that??? ...'hardly backfired' Yeikes...

Why not just put top feed rail and short injectors in your r33 intake? Just have to llose ... that's what I'm running in my drift pig? r33rb25det, aeroflow rail, ev14 1000's. J.