XRATED

Unless you really want to get into wiring (like I did) get a plug in (has additional outputs/inputs from a separate plug). Solid ecu, you won't look back.

Ah crap, I was thinking hr32 not bnr32 when you said turbo not turbo's. Bnr/GTR twins, you'll be looking at around 220rwkw at a guess. It's hard to say without knowing exactily what is in the turbo's.

if the turbo still has the stock comp wheel, exh housing etc, the turbo will run out of puff before anything else.... think around 140-160rwkw.

At the end of the day it's your ass (litterally) on the line... so i hope you are confident in your abilities. That being said, give these guys a call http://racetechsteel.com.au/about they supply many top level fabricators with material. They will also be able to pint you in the right direction for filler material and gas depending on what you buy. The harness bar in my track/drift pig is as simple as backing plates and a bar that runs infront of where the back seat would normally be. If you want a removable bar, I would use this as a good example to work from http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320522 Good luck Cheers Justin

I'm really digging the radiator set up... hope it works well for you. Most people can't appreciate the time and skill it takes to produce neat wiring solutions. Just make sure you are using the correct style of deutsch plug crimps for the pins and sockets. It's comming along gear guns. PS... I had my first proper day out sliding (Baskervill) last weekend.. was a blast! I can see how it becomes a destructive addiction.

I bought a couple over from the US when I moved back.... I might still have one kicking around somewhere??

Ba ha ha haha ha a... your an iddiot. KandN air filters are basically industry standard for some industry applications... Anything from aviation through to (many multiples of) million dollar mega-yachts.

... do a little reaserch. I'm not getting into something so stupid.

for the love of god what is wrong with you people??? Where did I ever say that ryco are bad or do not use ryco or ryco will blow yuor engine up??? What I am supporting is that for an expensive engine, why not give it the better of two options for very little extra cost? especially when the engine has presented a possible issue of deforming an oil filter already... If there is a better option, why wouldnt you choose it? J.

I used a VH45 tb... it had a wax/mechanical cold idle controll that allowed my to do away with the faulty IAC valve I had. I used an rb20 tps on the VH45 tb, bolts straight on. Preformed well, stock throttle cable fitted up well. Cheers Justin

For my money, a gun GTR street set up would be a 2.8, twin low mount T517z 10cm Greddy turbo's, well set up head to suit the turbo's, 4.3:1 gear ratios and a good clutch/gearbox combo. I ran mid 10's 8-9 years ago on a stock engined/t517z/ppg dog box/ os giken r3c set up with stock gearing. If you wan't any more after than, bang a 150hp shot of well set up nitrous... I now have a 2.8 twin billet td06 set up... not as fast on the street as the old set up. But close.

what rear can is that? Set up looks great. ... why thats an awfully large cat you have in there

as stated, why use a cheaply made generic item on an expensive engine? when for a few bucks more you put a well proven, rugged and purpose designed filter on. Yes very true, clearly filtration will be a trade off for flow.... I should have stated that the drift brand tested well in filtration v's flow comparison testing.

PM me.. keen on turbo.

That's so true.... :woot: But sometimes it's more like ' if you can't afford two houses, you can't afford one moddified gtr '

Honestly, if you'r asking what material to use- you might wan't to re-think welding a safety device together yourself? Cheers Justin

Autobarn sell K&N oil filters... it's a stock item. Oil pressure seems a little high, but not abnormal. I'd leave the stock plate coolant heat exchanger.... tassie mornings are cold and unless you'r doing alot of circut work, I'd leave it.

Just front up to a couple of workshops (be preppared to not be able to speack with anyone for lengthy periods of time- all the good workshops are flat out.) and have a quick chatt. Explain what you are trying to achieve and the time frame you have to work with. Then go with woever you feel most confortable with. If your looking for something drivable, 3037sx2 isn't going to get you there- even with a 3.4lt stroker. Again, your chosen workshop can point you in the right direction for turbo choice. There is no larger factor that determines the engines total power potential or potential power delivery than what turbo/s you choose. everything else is just supporting modifications. Haltech... love em (I have a ps2000 in my gtr) You'll need a box box over 400 rwkw to keep it reliable. Look at carbon, multiplate clutches for a good feel, take up, low noise and good power handling. I'd highly recomend a front 1 or 1.5way lsd for over 400rwkw Fuel system, plan for alch/e85. Oil controll is alot more than just an oil cooler... breather set up, drains, block and head prep, oil pump choice. If you stick with 3037's consider dry sump, but a good internal pump has proven reliable for years. ... and the cost, well nothing awsome in life is cheap.

From memory Trent (status) did some back to back testing and found the Drift brand filter to be one of the best for filtering and trapping particulate... that was a few years ago now and Drift brand is now operating under a differnet parent company, so they may have changed? I personally use K&N or Greddy oil filters. There is no way you would ever baloon a K&N filter... very soilid. I'd stay away from ryco wherever possible. What are your cold start up oil pressures? Cheers Justin

So your pretty much going drag racing with twin 3037's... is that what you wan't to use the car for? I'd very seriously consider a nitto 3.2 stroker kit in an rb30 block, with a billet crank girdle/awd adapter plate, red-r racing prepped head. don't bother with v-cam. Honestly, with such big wizzers, it's almost not worth trying to chase any kind of decent responce, so just shoot for big numbers.... this means, big cams, valves, springs etc etc etc... work on around 8.5:1 static CR, plan for e85, greddy intake manifold is a good thing (I have on on my gtr). Before you get too far into what bits and pieces you should buy, what workshop/s are you planning to use? who will be tuning the car? the reason I ask, is these are the people you need to talk to before you go buying anything... they have (or should have) a lot of experience in what works well for your car/set up/engine etc. Given any thought to management? clutch? gearbox? susp? brakes? diffs? fuel system? oil control? etc... Cheers Justin

What sort of wheels are you looking for? Interested in a trade? Cheers Justin

what box is that?

Anyone got an SAFC 1 that works? The last one I bought and have just installed doesn't work.... grrrr!

yes.... 6-10 ish kws.

... ha ha ha 'Only 36psi'.