Swiper the Fox

he said his best run was 14.1 @ 105 im sure a 14.0 @ 98 timecard is in there somewhere

HKS 87mm $600 Aries 86mm (teflon coated skirts) these clearance up well in a honed STD bore block $300 these are both 1/3 of new cost and include pins and locks PM please

he's talking about de-burring (removing the casting seams)...i do it with STD blocks...N1's at this power level if balanced correctly are fine. Its engine harmonics that crack thin fatigued blocks so balancing is very critical...running a proper balancer is more important than de-burring. How many people would just bolt this stroker kit into a block assuming Tomei has got it spot-on...id say a lot...ive proven they are far from it.

you can pick GTR rods up for $150 a set 600>150 i built and raced an engine for 4 years using all Nissan parts except pistons and camshafts its not how much $$ you spend...its how its screwed together

Im an advocate of stock RB26 rods...as im yet to see a rod fail due to its lack of strength...its always something else that causes the rod to fail. RB25's would be in the same boat...but not as good as the 26 rods. put some ARP's in the stockers and they will be fine...i ran stock rods in my RB26 and they were good as gold when measured up when i pulled the engine down and the engine was making 450+AWKW and was punished at the track regularly.

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nothing fancy...of lets count them together shall we 1 x top ring 1 x second ring 2 x oil rings 4 rings ha ha ha (done in the voice of the count from Sesame Street)

im still using the ol' monkey wheel... need to buy an electric one

Typical Effy...cheap and nasty

X2

Its quite easy to strap it to a pallet and send it up...ive done engines for guys from the ACT, QLD and even far as WA. If i was in Melb. i wouldn't use anyone but Ben at Racepace...the best in Vic. PM me the workshop's details please.

IBTL http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gr...-A-t241495.html

John and i will be racing our cars up there soon...ill keep ya posted

ok, time to start putting things in the top ill be back in a few days...ive got 24 rings to file the end gaps on.

pull the engine...send it up...and we will send them the bill. seriously...if thats what they did from a service...there's no way id let them near it again. all the best with getting it sorted...let me know if i can help in any way...my advice on here costs you nothing.

Main studs installed final check of crank journals before fitting bearings and crank fitted girdle in, studs moly lubed and torqued in 3 steps

don't forget to do the deal with Lee...get onto him...he said he'd have it done by now.

Tomei forged conrods ACL Race Series main and rod bearings Time for a bath...keen eyes may spot the extra 1.5mm releifs machined at the base of either side of the bore to give sufficient rod clearance Right time for some assembly

Yep...what he said

controller also comes with chrome cup style gauge mount instructions are here for those who want to view them http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?...load&id=173

Our record is 1 and 1/2 hours... but the race car is a little easier than a stocker and we use a hoist for the car and a forklift with a sling for the engine. if crans fly's me over ill do it for $2500

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The $7000 engine he will be getting will be much better than the one shown and its almost double the price. Its still got cast pistons, stock rods, stock crank, stock head, head gasket etc. Ill grant it does have the N1 block and pumps...but not much else. N1 crate engines are good in a street car at low boost levels but not the option to go if you want to make decent power. $1500 is what i charge to R & R the engine...so use that as a guide...$2500 even at a rate of $100 an hour is 25hrs labour to do an R & R...they either have no idea what they are doing or no morals by ripping you off.

these are still available...all pm's replied to

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