Swiper the Fox

I cryo treated our stock box...it lasted a while before 3rd gear decided to check out. OS gearset is a better but more expensive option.

MarkoR1 is racing to see if he can get kicked out.

its always good to keep your rocket covered

you rear half shafts may become rear quarter shafts before too long.

block needs the small reliefs found inside a STD block to be recut and radiused a further 1-1.5mm due to the increased stroke. Fresh N1 block will be delivered with the head to the machinist Friday morning, and reciprocating components will be off to Sydney to be balanced....yes brand new stroker kits need balancing too!. Head is undergoing a Stage 2 port job and will have all the 'fruit' installed as mentioned in 1st post.

OK...feel free to share more via PM if you like sorry for whoring your thread Johno back on topic please

There is a place in QLD that does it...do you know of any other?

sent... forgot to answer the plasma coating question... we only do it on our VQ38DETT rebuilds...lol bloody good idea though...would save a lot of rebores...especially N1 blocks. Might look into that...cheers

You have PM

POA

A mate of mine used to own this car...it looks better in real life. It has an ex-twoogle intercooler...yay Wish i had 20K handy

way... Red R Racing's new track car....can i Stace can i. Ill buy it if JP promises to be my friend.

Quick rundown of what each stage is Stage one is mostly a clean up of whats already there, not a lot of material is removed and the port shape remains a very similar profile as a stock item. Suited to street applications with low mount turbo's with small lift and duration camshafts 7000-8000 rev limit Stage two has the ports enlarged on both sides the port separators are modified slightly and the inlet is finished to aid in cylinder distribution and the exhaust is finished to minimise flow restriction. Suited to street cars that see the track often with larger flowing turbo's medium lift and duration camshafts 8000-9000 rev limit Stage three has extensive enlargement and port shaping with full removal of the 'bump' in exhaust side and is perfectly matched to gaskets in port entry size. This is the extent the head on my race car has been ported as well as the head on other 'big' GTR's. Suited to full race applications and or dyno HP cars utilising very large turbocharger and high lift/duration camshafts 9000-10 000+ rev limit. I have been intentionally a little vague about the exact modifications done as you can accept there is a lot of research done that im not willing to disclose on an open forum. Mostly this has been obtained through experience in real world conditions and not on a test bed/engine dyno (wish i had the time and money). Its done more along the lines of the xyzXY method you suggested. Hope this info is of further assistance.

Heads are flow bench tested by my machine shop and we port the heads to suit turbo, cam selection, capacity and RPM range. We use ACL race series bearings in most builds. The level of grouting is something id prefer to keep to myself. But we have found even in a street application water temps are unaffected and in some applications is actually lower. All builds are torque plate honed, we use a milled block as our dummy head as its nice and rigid and gives an even spread of torque over block deck. We generally only chemical crack test the blocks, and if getting a little large in the bore 87mm^ Sonic testing is done to check cylinder wall thickness. X-raying can be done but blocks have to be freighted to Sydney. Porting is done free hand with a die grinder Hope this info helps. Paul

Crank has been checked and prepped and its in Sydney with rods and pistons getting balanced. Block has been stripped, acid bathed, hot tanked and grouted. Just waiting a little longer for the grout to properly cure before we bore and hone it. Will probably do the bore once the gear gets back from the balancers. The head has been ported and the guides are in. The port job is what we call a stage 2 job and is a little more involved than a simple clean up (stage 1). Its the same port job i did on my old 2530 engine, this port job was so good Jim at CRD didn't want it touched and asked me to source another head for my current engine. Will post up some pics of the progress as soon as i take the camera over and snap some.

Remember the 140MPH rule or do you guys have a chute mounted already?. You guys have 3 mph and 2 tenths to work with so it is possible in the car. Maybe hook up a 139mph speed limiter...lol. I just held ours in 3rd gear at 9100rpm, this hurt the ET but the car was still good enough to run 9's under 140. Good luck with it guys...your video's are in the post today.

1/4 mile racing proves nothing...its only corner racing that gains respect. Unfortunately most of the exposure is given to drag racing GTR's which i think p1sses a few people off. Absolutely stinging to get some more track time with the car...ill be walking past a few pits with my hand cupped behind my ear at the next event. Or maybe with my index finger pressed against my lips. Maybe that might be being a little too cheeky, but it has certainly got my determination active and my goals focused.

when i ran a Power FC ialways reset the peakhold after starting engine for that very reason.

Dazmo, I know how you feel mate, being a backyarder myself. Its hard to compete with the big workshops in both $$ and development. When you do well you get stupid people making comments about things they don't even have a grasp on. We have been asked by various people to come corner racing, and when we do we are not made feel welcome. Are we a threat to their masquerade of being the experts?, with great results from next to no development and only a little track time. Others like comments before don't even justify a response. Im not in the trade either as im an electrical engineer by day, but have been building engines and cars since i was 16 (my dad is a mechanical engineer). All the best with the car mate...see you in the top 5 at the next event. Paul.

If Mark Jacobsens GTR which has the most power out of any GTR in this country, that sees a lot of ignition cut rev limit and high revs, cannot shake a bolt loose using the same method as I described, then i dont think you will have anything to worry about. Just use a moly based lube to get the correct torque when assembled. I wouldn't recommend Loctite or any other anerobic compound.

the plug in is a board...needs to be installed into a STD Nissan case. The wire in version looks like this...

all but the auto r34...which is being worked on and will be released soon.

Yeah im itching to get the fully optioned V88 into our drag car for testing. Especially the anti-lag launch and the flat-shift. Sick of having to feather the throttle after the burnout to stop the car stalling too as the Power FC hated returning to idle.

it wouldn't fit in a Skyline...maybe a tube framed chassis. I think its just for display purposes though.

Marko picked up his rubber today...even supplied him some coilovers. They were out of Mark Jacobsen's GTR when it was running mid 8's on the same rubber so should suit the car just fine. No excuses not to blast into the 10's now mate.