Swiper the Fox

Gotta get Mark down to tune it though...thats the only issue. If not we will bring Dave's car and give it a run. Will be there either way...will be good to see your beast tearing up the rollers.

Might be there...with the new monster.

Power FC...i remember tuning it for him in the pits at WSID after he came to me and said "Is 99 knock level normal"? From memory it needed about 4 degrees taken out of it. Im still very crook with the flu and have been all week...maybe i need a rum

freight it over...ill build it

some of the cars they have listed they neither tuned or built...they just used dyno graphs from dyno comps held there. pretty wrong eh. here's one example... CHECK OUT SOME OF THE CARS WE HAVE BUILT AND TUNED IN HOUSE! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- R33 GTS-T RB25DET (std internals, std turbo), Apexi Power FC, Blitz Dual-SBC, HKS FMIC, 3-inch turbo-back exhaust, single fogger nitrous kit (wet) jetted to 100hp. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- this is a friends car and he assures me the only thing they have done is supplied him a $12 rubber plug and 2 bits of aluminium sheet for a pod enclosure.

yes...and no

For those GTR owner looking to have their transfer cases rebuilt Terry from Award Diff and Gearbox at Rydalmere in Sydney is the place to go. I wont quote any prices but lets just say i was pleasantly surprised at the minimal cost to have the item fully rebuilt. This is a part of the car that is often overlooked for maintenance due to the difficulty in servicing and excessive cost. Terry has extensive experience in rebuilding these items as well as modifying them for greater durability and has most parts on the shelf. He also specialises in OS Giken and PPG gearsets.

any help would be much appreciated

i was going to post that the MPH seemed a little low for the ET...but didn't wish to be flamed for appearing to be negative.

Well done lads...id say it will last a while too cause im out of the game now. would have loved a crack at it with the new dogbox. big single is on it now...ahh well good to see it was an Aussie and not a bloody kiwi. drag suitable suspension is a toss anyway...both giant and i have proven the circuit stuff works just as well in a 4WD car.

Yes the push clutch will have straight fingers with no inner ring. The pull clutch will have bent fingers and a silver inner locking ring.

Stacey has taken the camera charger to work and is off work ill (im off work with the flu also) till next week. I can snap a few with my phone when im over there on friday and send them to you to upload.

CRD had one in that they built up...dunno where it was sourced from... http://www.croydonracingdevelopments.com/gallery/LHDGTR

CRD are the best...this topic has been done to death though.

Yes Rod, extrude honing the STD manifolds works very well. If i went back to lowies thats what i would do for manifolds...port matched extrude honed STD items with hi temp black ceramic coating for further heat retention..

Cool im in no hurry as they will only be spares, dont really need them but if at the right price ill get them Cryo'd and put them on the shelf.

treating all forum members with respect is the number one rule...please obey it. this thread is going no-where but down...can mods please lock it.

The AFM has done about 10hrs work since new

Yeah thats a similar phenomenon i was refering to earlier...weird huh. Well done guys..i mean girls...hope to see you late Nov.

in owning and modifying GTR's for almost 7 years its the only way ive ever done it...seems to work for me.

price on tacho

price on rear driveshafts only

I should have taken a pic to show the difference...the early 32 centres are smaller.

on our application we were running internally gated HKS turbo's so no chance of changing the spring as they are sealed units. The best and only option for us and many others was to invest in a decent controller...the Blitz ID-III is the best on the market in my opinion.

just bleed it with the white connector unplugged (its located in the drivers kick panel) the bleed nipple is located at the back of the transfer case. You need to open and close the nipple to force the oil through the bleeder. May take a few goes at it to get it fully cleared of air bubbles...make sure you have plenty of fluid in the tank located under the panel on the drivers side of the boot.