Swiper the Fox

Crank needs machining to an interference fit for the ID of the collar then its grub screwed (supplied) to secure.

Yes the Supertech package is also a good item.

I thought id use the thread to tell him also inform others who's crank looks like this. Is that ok ?

your crank has been damaged and is too far gone to be reliable. For your walletts sake spend the money and get a new collar fitted. this thread has the pics but has been closed http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ju...st-t235539.html

i use and recommend Nitto valves an guides in all our big engines.

It all depends what i was using the engine for....if i was building a forklift id put an RB30 engine in it as thats what they were designed for. If i was building a high rpm drag engine id stick with a stock crank and high quality pistons and rods (my preference is JUN and this is the set-up i currently have to chase 8's with) If i was building a circuit engine a 2.7 ltr JUN bottom end would be hard to go past. If i was building a street car id keep the std crank and rods and use Aries or even ACL forgies (what the point of wasting cash just to brag about big $$ internals, ive made more power with stock stuff than most have with the brand name gear) hope this helps

cool...but im actually an Electrical Engineer by day...the engines are just a hobby...lol my example of the near stock engine was to show to run 9's you don't need a stroker or big $$ components...a well put together package is more important than shelling out thousands on a brand name Jap stroker kit. The dyno graph you used was an extreemly rich run-in tune with bugger all timing. The final tune really 'woke the car up' in the lower rev range and gave it more top end. RIPS do good stuff though...no doubt about that.

I hope the engine i refered to with the all the stock components in my previous post is not being mistaken for our current one. The engine i mentioned a couple of pages ago was actually only built for street use and the occasional circuit club day....certainly not built to break records!! (although it did achieve world class results). It was built in my back shed at home and was good enough for a best of 467KW @ 34psi in its last dyno comp...it made around 450KW on the dyno regularly but was only raced with around 400KW limiting boost to 27psi.

ill take the centre console surround (bit that goes around centre gauges and down around gear stick) if in good condition and is available

does it really matter who its for ?? if you want to help then do so...if not why are you posting here? only need to know in broken english what the instructions are for step 1 (the 1 in the round circle) and step 2. Its only two small pages in a very simple instruction booklet...not asking to have War and Peace translated into Swahili.

We had a new ordering system at work...instead of ordering a packet of Chux wipes with 100 in it...100 boxes turned up...3/4 of a semi trailer load. Same thing happened in Sydney with a packet of screws...500 boxes of screws...instead of a box of 500 screws. Ive also written off a couple of cars...1 x Nissan Navara ute and 1 x brand new Commodore wagon.

ohh well...name your price?? ive given hundreds of hours of free info on here from research ive done that has cost me thousands...but if $$ are required then someone cost it up for me.

Yeah it was a Performance Metalcraft product...i think they no longer do them. The enclosure is required for all internal surge tanks that are not totally sealed from cabin to comply with ANDRA regulations. It prevents fuel from spraying around inside the car in the unfortunate circumstance of a hose or fitting failure or accident. Looks the part too.

transbrake and a shot of gas will have you leaving the line harder than any manual.

Run what ive just got... HKS T51R SPL BB....specially modified with 108mm compressor...good for 1100hp and 8's !! In an S chassis do the right thing and run an auto (even though i hate them) they are cheaper, easier to launch , softer on the driveline and much more consistent. Successful drag racers are not the ones that go fast...but ones that can race within a bee's d1ck of their dial in everytime.

9's can be done quite easy with a well built engine using mostly stock components...Take our old set-up as an example. STD 05U block 86mm Aries pistons STD rods STD crank Mildly ported head STD valves STD springs STD retainers Tomei 1.2mm head gasket Tomei oil restrictor Tomei cams 260 9.15mm Tomei sump baffle N1 oil pump N1 water pump This ran low 10's with full weight 1600kg+ including driver using HKS 2530 low mounts and running Federal street rubber. Car was ran flat out for 3 years before the rear turbo failed due to oil starvation (blocked oil feed) and when the engine was pulled down it was in perfect order. The addition of one or more of the following would have seen high 9's Bigger turbo's Better rubber Lighter car Dog gearbox NOS kit Better driver

Will it boltup to my HKS manifold and dump that my HKS T51R SPL BB is currently fitted to? If so whats the damage to upgrade to this turbo?

i prefer to stay 2.6....but if my hand was forced the JUN 2.7 would be the way id go....they rev like a sewing machine!

Yeah i find the Trust kit a little too cluttered...x2 for HKS

the outer gear material was far too soft and would wear rather quickly. the Trust and OS giken ones are the pick of them if i was to be asked which i prefer.

haha the impy at singo....one of my old haunts.

Happy Birthday Dr Spoof.

R32 GTR diff's are a 2 way mech item from factory...with the "Terry mods" and the clutch pack would be as good as any aftermarket item. Its all i use...they work!

You have snapped all the tags off the drive plates in the clutch packs...no biggie. Get it rebuilt by Terry at Award Diff and Gearbox at Rydalmere for around $500. He will modify it as well as fit the stronger Nismo clutch pack set...you wont break it then.

how old is the fuel in the tank? we needed to fully drain and flush system when we rebuilt ours. Even adding fresh fuel wasn't enough to keep it running.