Swiper the Fox

Garage Saurus = T88

not everyone wants it dry

ok if i cant tell you it was a Jim Berry "full monty" then i cant tell you what clutch it was...

bit of misguided information here..especially above... I raced for 3 seasons on a SINGLE PLATE clutch, dumping it at 8500-9000rpm with over 400AWKW on sticky drag strips 60'ing in the 1.5's and as low as 1'4's...never slipped once...plenty of spirited street abuse as well as countless dyno comps...probably the best performance part ive evr bought for any car ive ever built or owned. Ive set cam gears to make gains throughout entire rev range...some parts very small gains but yes gains everywhere. None of this "rob peter to pay paul" (pardon the pun) stuff your on about. your right about the cams though...stockers dialed in right with small low-mounts do the trick. No cams but id fit gears to them. my 2 cents

give me a quote to do my 4.7litre V8 Jeep please.

yep...what he said

$3600-$3900 is for strip down, clean, measure, ALL machining shop expenses, full engine balancing, another clean, measure, dummy assembly, clearances rechecked, full assembly and engine paint. another $1500 to R & R the engine...no dyno. quality costs $$

They are a designed to 'push' fuel not 'suck' it from a pressureless source...but will be fine... done it in our old set-up...no probs at all...run 13.5V to it via a relay and separate feed though.

rebuilt to my standards will cost you around $3600-$3900 plus parts, but will be good for up to 400KW (provided you buy the right bits for it)

I know who has a brand new RB25 engine with all the goodies in it and on it for sale http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...tml&hl=RB25

could get a nice Red R Racing one made to set it off if you like

ACL race seies make a great street forged piston. Nice thick top rings to provide a good bore seal to prevent blow-by.

sorry username is malcolm

Hi Justin, The GT-RS's were just coated in ceramic...high temp black on the turbine side and ceramichrome on the compressor side. HKS 1.2bar actuators were swapped with the 0.8bar ones that come with them to stop boost creep. We set them to open at 17psi. min. check in the 'dyno comparison tool', our pump fuel run-in tune for Newcastle Autosalon is posted in there. 20psi any help you need just let me know Paul

get malcom on here to make a fake badge up for you like he did for the GReddy plenum on his car.

sorry guys been a little flat out with engines and getting car ready for Superlap, will get into these next week after Superlap is over. PHA71L you have PM

your bonnet if fibreglass probably illegal too...so why worry...flush types are available if required. Here google is your friend http://www.aerocatch.com/

if we let him know our preferred brew now it may save him a few $$ by placing a bulk order...hehe

do you still have the front bar?

he's a registered trader...he can sell rubber dog poo on here if he wants.

you are all soft (except the two posts above)...let the girls drive...most are quite good drivers. Stace had never driven a high powered car before she met me and now has a National drag racing title and a couple of national records to her name. Very satisfying seeing her beat the fellas at the track.

install and then get it towed there or use a gas soldering iron and do it in the carpark at CRD...simple

we have a to4z on our circiut car...its laggier than the drag car and doesnt make the power, might be ok on a 2.8 ltr though.

9.97...spot on...PB is 9.95 @ 139.6 MPH....0.4MPH from being logged for no parachute. The day the ignition DVD was filmed (WSID bracket meeting) ran back to back 9.96-9.97 then when they turned up with the camera's and insisted on massive burnouts the times went 10.0's. The last run of the day the ANDRA stewards allowed me to have one pass that they would turn a blind eye to (in regard to MPH) as it was bleeding obvious that i was holding 3rd too long. So with PB's to the 330 and the 660 in both ET and MPH on the run I looked set for a 9.8* at 140+ MPH i went to shift it into 3rd and the bastard would not go in and rolled over the line with my foot on the clutch....it ended up a 10.1 at 129 MPH. Thats why you can see me rip my gloves off and throw them in the in-car footage on the DVD Back on topic...a HKS T51R KAI BB has very similar charateristics to twin HKS GT-RS's in regard to airflow, power output and efficiency. On a 2.8ltr that would be my 2nd choice.

this man speaks the truth...sort of...lol correcting a couple of things said in thread... Ash i assume the 440kw stock shift etc is me...i never raced with 440kw thats just a dyno comp figure (34psi, when racing we only ran 28psi) the car was raced with around 400-410kw. rb26s13 you are slightly off the mark with the time stated...9.9's @ 139MPH but thanks anyway. Our car was capable of running quicker but couldnt race it to its full potential due to the ANDRA 140 MPH rule. I think if you go GT-RS's and are willing to rev it (9500rpm) you could run a 9 with that MPH or at least a very low 10. You would have to get the cars weight including driver to around 1475kg to do the 9 though. Although you do have the dogbox so you might get away with being over 1500kg. Our car was almost as responsive as Racepace's 2.9ltr and was all over it in the midrange and ours was only running a STD nissan crank. So RS's are the proven route i think. Our car also easily made 455KW at the wheels at Newcastle Autosalon on 20psi with BP98 and over 500KW at final battle on Sunoco race fuel.