Swiper the Fox

i think the only person you are kidding is yourself...put the textbooks away Gary and think about it. MORE TORQUE IS MORE STRAIN/WEAR ON COMPONENTS...end of story.

are you taking into account the differing rod loads and hence wear with a longer stroke engine? obviously not.

yep...got it roy in one...hehe Jack as you can see from the overlayed graphs a few pages back the set-ups are not that different...he has more down low, i power over mid-range and both settle around 460KW at the top end. Both were on pump fuel BP98 and ours was only run in the day before and was on a very conservative tune (quite rich with minimal timing). I put it to you that your car would probably never see below 3500rpm any tracks in Aust. except the one with the big hairpin at the end of the straight. Whats with the fact our car is a straight liner anyway....power is power...torque is torque...who gives a toss what chassis its in or what the car is used for...starting to get sick to death of people using that as a reason to dismiss the engine or cars ability. Id still like to see a torque graph as requested several times...in a much more realistic scale. Power graphs really dont show the true picture of this engines ability. I can only go off whats been provided at this stage and im sure a better torque graph may force me to eat my words... My post was not made to offend anyone, as Ben is aware im sure at the respect i have for him and his work. He is the leader in this country in many areas of development of Nissans/Skylines. Just looking at the whole setup from a different angle thats all.

lets put a bit of reality into this...All respect to Ben and what he has done...just a little food for thought... i can build one thats very close...with more mid range and top end for 1/2 that price...is a little bit more bottom end under 3500rpm really worth $25K ?. When is a GTR engine driven under 3500rpm ? in traffic ? id say if you want something good in traffic spend the extra $25K you have on a Ford Focus !

id like you to bring the car along if thats possible, along with all the bits. thanks

Just did some back to back testing on our car with HKS low-mount balance pipe manifolds. Our car runs HKS GT-RS turbos and the car suffered from the dreaded turbo shuffle. This is not a problem when racing but on the street it made the car really frustrating to drive. As the car started to build boost it would 'choof' its head off. Replaced the HKS twin low mount manifolds with the balance pipe items and 'hey presto' problem is completely gone. The car is a lot more streetable and driving on the road is now a lot less hassle. But.... It seems to have softened the car up a little, not coming on boost as hard and appears to have lost a little bit of power overall. Will be dynoing the car on friday to see if my observations are correct.

http://www.andrewho.com/misc/fake/malcolm_2004.jpg not missing anything...this photo above is of a clean R33 GTS-t...thats in my opinon and many others worth around $20K just because you have chosen to affix some stickers and badges on it does not make its value $80K more rare vehicles are such due to the fact their authenticity can be varified....for example a GT-HO phase 3 is worth $500K-$900K a GS falcon mock-up no matter how mint/clean is worth a small fraction of that amount. see ya next Saturday

entered...boy do i have some work to do

ahh yes...he does...top quality unit too with lots of features.

no a GTS-t base map has some real nasty timing figures in it and will damage your engine.

the beauty of the stock manifolds is their ability to retain gas path heat due to their cast thick wall construction. If manifolds are upgraded is is necessary to perform some form of heat retention i.e. Ceramic coating or thermal wrapping. if its a street car...retain the stockers...if you want gains you may opt to extrude hone them to improve flow.

AFM's can be selected from a table (i asked this question especially for you) a generic unit with a plug and wire in loom is available

they are sending me a couple of units...do you want me to ask them for a r33 gts plug-in for you to try??

yes R34 Gtt auto will have a unit available for it. Its not on the list but will be soon. 5 pages in two days...its really sparked some interest can't wait to be the 1st GTR with one in and tuned! Flat shift function, proper anti-lag, proper launch control, NOS control, fan control, full data logging etc...yeah!

This country is full of clever people...heck some smart people even live in QLD

Yeah, but they wanted to make sure when it hit the market it hit the ground running... having the thing not up to scratch would have given the product a bad name from the get-go and something that would have been hard to shake. The thing is constantly under development and even last week underwent quite a number of needed changes after tuner feedback.

i think the Link set-up was the way they used to do things...this is an entirely new product

TF electronics is the manufacturer...ViPEC is the ECU branding

The following info might answer a few questions and clear a few things up for people..... The V44 standalone has 4 injector and 4 ignition outputs. The plug-in ECU based on the V44 have six injector and six ignition outputs. The V88 model has 8 injector and 8 ignition outputs. Also it has knock control and DBW throttle control. Both ECU have motorsport features like antilag, WOT shift, launch control. These ECU use a 32 bit microcontroller running at 42Mhz. This processor is designed for engine control and has the power and speed to work with crank and cam trigger signals in real time. It does not use the time based system like the Autronic. The result is far more stable ignition and injector control. On engines with multitooth crank triggers the ECU reads and uses every signal for maximum resolution. Some of the features are, Missing tooth engines can run wasted spark without a sync signal. User can set reluctor input signal threshold. (this lets you tune out any interference) Variable cam control for up to four cams. (V88 only) Outputs can be controlled by GPC tables or PID with feedback. ECU case is extruded with water proof connectors. Case is small and not box shaped (looks very good). V44 has one connector and the V88 has two connectors. Idle control is very very good and very easy to setup. No popping in the exhaust on overrun with smooth transition in and out of over run Fixed duty boost control. Different boost in each gear. Dual fuel and Ignition tables that can be externally switched. Up to 12 cylinder multi coil engine support DBW throttle control (V88) QuickTune (Autotune) feature on both V44 and V88. Inputs and Outputs: V44 injector = 4 V44 ignition = 4 V44 analog inputs = 3/4* V44 temp inputs = 2 V44 digital inputs = 3/4* V44 AUX outputs =8 V44 Connector pin number = 34 (one connecter) *one Digital input shares the same pin as one analogue input V88 injector = 8 V88 ignition = 8 V88 analog inputs = 11 V88 temp inputs = 4 V88 digital inputs = 10 V88 AUX outputs = 10 V88 Knock input = 2 V88 Connectors pin number = 2 x 34 (two connecter) V88 has: - E-Throttle (drive by wire throttle) - Peak & Hold (individual P&H current control) - Dual Knock - 4MB of logging memory Both ECU's have: - 8V out - 5V out - Trigger in = 2 - USB Coms connector - Can Bus Coms connector - All spare injection and ignition channels can be auxiliary outputs Trigger support for the following patterns: All Mitsubishi 4 and 6 cylinder. All Subaru 4 and 6 cylinder All Nissan optical BMW S50 Buick 3.8L Ford TFi 4, 6 and 8 cylinder Ford 36-1 Ford Cosworth RS500 GM LS1 GM LS7 GM LT1 Honda K20 Honda S2000 Honda V6 Motronic 60-2 MX5 Porsche 944 RX7 Suzuki Baleno Toyota 36-2 Toyota 2NZ VVTi Toyota 1ZZ VVTi Toyota 3SGTE VVTi Toyota 1UZ VVTi Toyota 1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE Toyota 1JZ-GTE VVTi Toyota 2JZ-GTE VVTi Other patterns can be added quickly with the correct information supplied. Plug-in ECU: Subaru 1994-96 (V44) Subaru 1997-98 (V44) Subaru 1999-00 (V44) Subaru 2001-05 2L (V44) Subaru 2005-2007 2.5L (V88 with DBW) Mitsubishi EVO 1 to 6 (V44) Mitsubishi EVO 7 to 8 (V44) Mitsubishi EVO 9 (V88) Nissan N14 (V44) Nissan S13 (V44) Nissan S14 (V44) Nissan S15 (V44) Nissan GTiR (V44) Nissan GT-R (R32-R34) (V88) Nissan GTS (R32-R33) (V88) Mazda MX5 1.6L (V44) Mazda MX5 1.8L (V44) Mazda 323 GTX (V44) Mazda RX7 (V44) Toyota MR2 SW20 (V44) Toyota Celica ST185 (V44) Toyota Celica ST205 (V44) As you can see this is quite an extensive product and very well engineered and produced. It is far superior than the Autronic in a few features especially over-run control. Personally im itching to get it in the car and try it.

Hunter all wheel dyno...its very competitive pricing for the day....its now on next Saturday the 17th if that will help get more people in. cost depends on numbers

injectors can be selected from a table by part no. (denso ********) or brand (Blitz 1000cc) very easy...high and low imped. water inj. triggered by intake temp. not a drama...switching on and off thermo's...just as easy

again...this ECU is not suited to everyone....but think about this... how many people spend $800+ on camshaft upgrades that have a minimal effect on performance...a lot! wait until we do some back to back testing and publish some results...i think they will have a place in the aussie skyline performance market.

$2K is around the ballpark will not be sub $1.5K around $3000+ less than a MoTeC its more a ECU for those looking for advanced features and datalogging. think about it...sell Power FC, AFM's and boost controller and upgrade costs next to nothing

you know what to do when that occurs but....99% of Power FC owners would not have a clue. I see what you mean though...this ECU is not for everyone....ill show you 1st hand the product and we will give it a run in your car and we will see if we can convert you.

just like the one on our car...seamless 1 piece. I took of genuine Nissan N1 skirts to put this type on...highly recommended!